If you can still get oem ones that not a bad idea. I need several sets redone.
So being the passenger side is now gone. I just send a set at a time back to the company I suggested. I am glad to see members having positive and good things to say about them.. Thanks for the feedback.. I was hoping we get some of it on this thread. :-)

Keeping it simple Plan A

For what it worth I'm stingy with vouching for a company. If I wanted/needed a new/old stock airbag I'd get it from them.

I just like the fact we have folks use them with positive results. Says alot these days. Companies can change in time as well. So always best to keep our eyes open.

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They responded to my email to my inquiry with year and color:

"We charge $74.95 per belt on the repair.
Once removed, you need to purchase the following service in our website:

$74.95 Car Seat Belt Repair Service - Fix Pretensioners

Then you simply mail the seat belts to us, we replace the webbing and make your seat belt like new again ready to install."

$18 return shipping added at time of order to total $92.95



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I'll be damned 4 yrs price hasn't changed. It worth the $100.

Nice ...good deal...

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Unless your webbing is fraying, just pull it all the way out, clean it well, rinse it well and let it dry while pulled all the way out (clamp it to keep it from retracting, unbolt the top to get more belt for cleaning). You'll have a perfectly working belt when done.

-Charlie

The 96-00 seat belts can easily be cleaned or swapped with a junkyard unit. These are not complicated systems, it's just a spring with a ball bearing. When you have a sudden stop, the ball bearing rolls into the seat belt gears and keeps it from moving and locks it in place. That's it. Buying a new one is overkill, you've been trusting a 25 year old seat belt for this long, what's wrong with another one if it has a better coil spring?

Now the 01-02 are a bit more complicated with the extra safety air bag system. These have the little bit of explosive in them to 'blow' the lock closed in a sudden stop. To be honest, no one knows how long they will work. If you have one of these that stop working, then used may not be the best route. Rebuilt or new may be better. You'll know if you have this kind as there will be a terribly obvious yellow wire loom and a very goofy clip that you have to remove the wire pins from in order to take out the seat belt.

'99+ has the squib in the front seatbelts, not just 01/02. The squib is a secondary locking mechanism, the mechanical lock found on the 96-98 belts is still present, so even if the squib fails, it will match the performance of the previous belt system (still has inertial lock even without the pre-tensioner).

-Charlie

It doesn't retract worth a darn, I have to hand feed it. I'm over it lol

Dealer emailed me this morning, my new belt arrived.

That's what's wrong with mine as well. Retraction of belt about none existant.. Good to hear your replace is in.

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I can confirm that a thorough cleaning can sometimes fix a retraction issue. The problem is the belt and shoulder guide get a nearly invisible layer of grime that causes more friction than the spring can overcome. Scrubbing my passenger belt with a solution of laundry soap and water greatly improved the belt retraction. It also helps if you can scrub the shoulder guide where the belt touches it.

Picked up the belt yesterday, looks groovy and new.

There are two variations of the belt, based on my VIN, the one I ordered is not correct for my truck because it does not include the explosive squib.

I talked to the dealer and their tech on staff didn't seem to know if I could transfer the explosive squib from the current belt to the new belt, nor why the belt that I ordered is correct for my truck, but not for my VIN

I will manually compare everything tonight before opening the package and will try two things:

1. Drive around with the squib disconnected from the electrical connector, see if I get any errors at the vehicle level.

2. Remove the seat belt from the car and investigate whether the squib can be transferred from the old belt to the new.

I will report back in a day or so - unless someone knows the answer to those two questions before I get to it.

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The part I'd be more worried about is what to do with the yellow wires. It would really ruin your day if any sort of electrical current were to be sent through it. Maybe heat shrink some tubing on the pins so they are separated and wrap it up really good? Or would the pins need to be connected, as it might break the current flow in the event of an accident? Not really sure.

It shouldn't throw any codes as the yellow wires do not see any current and does not need to be grounded from what I remember. It only sees a current when the collision sensors are activated in an accident. But I've never actually tried it.