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Old 10-27-2022, 05:02 PM #16
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Originally Posted by shadow247 View Post
I only loosened the motor mounts and jacked it up about a 1/4 inch to get the clearance needed to remove the diff.
In retrospect, I think this was the main issue when I've struggled with front diffs in the past. Sagged motor mounts, the motor sinks down a little, and then you have negative clarance in some critical spots.

It all would have been SO MUCH easier if they used a bolt instead of a nut on that back mount.
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Old 10-27-2022, 09:36 PM #17
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Honestly wasn't too bad. I figure I could have the front diff out and on the ground in under an hour, definitely less than 2.

I only loosened the motor mounts and jacked it up about a 1/4 inch to get the clearance needed to remove the diff.
Good to know a 1/4" is enough. I fully disconnect the driver side mount, jack up the engine around 1", put some type of spacer (rubber block) between the mount and frame and then lower the jack to get it out of my way. With that height, there is zero fight to get the diff out, other than the force you need to create to bench press it up.
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Old 10-27-2022, 09:41 PM #18
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Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
In retrospect, I think this was the main issue when I've struggled with front diffs in the past. Sagged motor mounts, the motor sinks down a little, and then you have negative clarance in some critical spots.

It all would have been SO MUCH easier if they used a bolt instead of a nut on that back mount.
I fully agree with you. A bolt for that rear mount would have been nice. I'm thinking they used a stud though because that's a heavy and awkward thing to be holding up while you're trying to align the bolt hole with the cross member. If it were a bolt, you'd have to slide it up onto the crossmember and then get the 2 bolts installed for the front mounts first before trying to get the rear bolt aligned and started.
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