[Wayne]

My recent trials and travails of diagnosing and ultimately deciding I needed to replace my fuel pump are well documented here. Well yesterday I spent hours getting the damn tank out. I got the effing pump out and hooked it up to a fused cigaratte lighter cord and it runs fine. I can't effing believe I went through dropping my tank just for this. I hooked 12v to it when it was in place, and heard nothing. But there's no way I could have heard this thing run in the tank, I could barely hear it whispering even in my lap.

back to square one.

[mikebontoft]

you could have also jarred the commutators into operation again just by removing the pump. It can also have flow and no pressure.

What was your diagnosis process? You say it's well documented, where's the link?

[KidVermicious]

I agree with Mike, the act of taking the pump out could have knocked internal connections back into place momentarily. Don't put it back in, because if you're sure it wasn't working when you gave it 12 volts right at it's connector, then it won't stay working.

I think you should still replace it.

[Wayne]

I banged on the pump when it was in the tank much harder than any jarring it received since then. While I think thats possible, I don't think its likely. I don't have time to look up the links just check the three threads I've posted on recently. The eseential point that was never addressed in my diagnosis process is why wasn't I getting 12v to the blue/orange wire which feeds the pump, even when someone was cranking the engine, and why did it seem the fuel pump(circuit opening) relay wasn't energizing? This points to something other than a dead fuel pump, IMO, which is why I procrastinated a month before finally dropping the tank. But I'm not very good at electrical testing so I saw no other option for further testing. But now I will be tracing the wires back to the relay. I had the circuit opening relay tested and its good.

[EatonKyleH]

I read through your diag in your previous thread. Some questions it left me with....

Is there 12 volts from the 20 amp EFI fuse to EFI relay?
Did you jump the relay if there was?
Did you then have 12 volts to the circuit opening relay?
Did you jump the relay if there was?

I don't know if you know what I'm talking about or how to check these things but these are just steps that would to involved in diagnosing why there is no power to the pump and what the cause of that is.

I can assist you with more detail in testing procedures and what the outcomes mean if you need.

[TheDurk]

Originally Posted by EatonKyleH

I read through your diag in your previous thread. Some questions it left me with....

Is there 12 volts from the 20 amp EFI fuse to EFI relay?
Did you jump the relay if there was?
Did you then have 12 volts to the circuit opening relay?
Did you jump the relay if there was?

I don't know if you know what I'm talking about or how to check these things but these are just steps that would to involved in diagnosing why there is no power to the pump and what the cause of that is.

I can assist you with more detail in testing procedures and what the outcomes mean if you need.

You must be new at this internet thing. Analytical troubleshooting is too much work. Please keep your posts to random guesses or your stories of fixes to unrelated problems. You'll get the hang of it.

[Wayne]

I'm not good at electrical problems or diagnosis, as I disclaimed in at least one of those threads. No, I did not do those tests and no I don't really understand all of them. I did understand that not getting 12v to the pump when the engine was cranking was a sign something other than pump might be involved.
And yes, I would appreciate instructions on how to do those tests. I can (probably) do it if somoene leads me through step by step in detail. All I have is an analog multitester though, and an incomplete understanding of how to use it.

The EFI relay clicks with the ignition on, so I think that answers your first question. I think the next question would be a good place to start.

[the great him]

Originally Posted by EatonKyleH

I read through your diag in your previous thread. Some questions it left me with....

Is there 12 volts from the 20 amp EFI fuse to EFI relay?
Did you jump the relay if there was?
Did you then have 12 volts to the circuit opening relay?
Did you jump the relay if there was?

I don't know if you know what I'm talking about or how to check these things but these are just steps that would to involved in diagnosing why there is no power to the pump and what the cause of that is.

I can assist you with more detail in testing procedures and what the outcomes mean if you need.

you keep posting stuff like this and you will soon make us all look like fools! this requires actual work and is much too strenuous for 80% of us, please refer to @TheDurk 's post above

[A.Wilson013]

Originally Posted by EatonKyleH

I read through your diag in your previous thread. Some questions it left me with....

Is there 12 volts from the 20 amp EFI fuse to EFI relay? Disregard that it is clicking. Get out your multimeter and check it.
Did you jump the relay if there was? If it has 12v, do a quick google search of how to jump a relay. It's easy. If it doesn't, your issue is before that. I am not a mechanic, and if your issue is before the relay I don't know... Bad fuse? I am sure you checked that. I imagine if it's clicking you're getting 12v though.

Did you then have 12 volts to the circuit opening relay? Now with the EFI relayed jumped, use your multimeter to check the power here. Don't have 12 volts? I'd say your EFI relay is toast.
Did you jump the relay if there was? Now with this jumped as well, is the pump working? If not, I'd say the circuit opening relay is your culprit.

I don't know if you know what I'm talking about or how to check these things but these are just steps that would to involved in diagnosing why there is no power to the pump and what the cause of that is.

I can assist you with more detail in testing procedures and what the outcomes mean if you need.

Hope my points in red help you, OP.

Kyle, please correct me if I am mistaken. I am a parts replacer at best.

[Wayne]

Just to be clear, I brought my efi and circuit opening relay in and had them plugged into a tester. Both tested fine, which confirmed my "click" tests. The circuit opening relay does not seem to click unless I switch it with the EFI relay. So I suspect it is not getting powered. I can do the jump test tomorrow

[EatonKyleH]

Originally Posted by TheDurk

You must be new at this internet thing. Analytical troubleshooting is too much work. Please keep your posts to random guesses or your stories of fixes to unrelated problems. You'll get the hang of it.

Ahh screw it then. Just replace the alternator they go bad all the time I've heard. My sisters boyfriends cousin had the same problem.

[EatonKyleH]

Originally Posted by the kid

you keep posting stuff like this and you will soon make us all look like fools! this requires actual work and is much too strenuous for 80% of us, please refer to @TheDurk 's post above

Lol I honestly have no intentions to make anyone feel foolish or to show boat and I hope my posts don't give off that kinda vibe.

[BrianSD_42]

Originally Posted by EatonKyleH

Lol I honestly have no intentions to make anyone feel foolish or to show boat and I hope my posts don't give off that kinda vibe.

It's just that there are so many posts where people just start pulling parts without real analytical troubleshooting. Actual logic is very refreshing.

[EatonKyleH]

Originally Posted by A.Wilson013

Hope my points in red help you, OP.

Kyle, please correct me if I am mistaken. I am a parts replacer at best.

Right on man, you could really go straight to the circuit opening relay to test for power if the Efi relay is clicking. If it has no power then there is a problem between the Efi and circuit opening relay. If it has power but does not click the control side/relay grounding side circuit has a problem. Jumping the relay eliminates the relay and the circuit that grounds it. I'd probably leave the fuel tank out with the pump connected while testing until power is restored and you can hear it run on the vehicles own circuit since already there.

[TheDurk]

Originally Posted by EatonKyleH

Lol I honestly have no intentions to make anyone feel foolish or to show boat and I hope my posts don't give off that kinda vibe.

My comment was my backass way of showing sincere admiration and no criticism of your posts or their tone was involved. I am always trying to get people to troubleshoot rather than just swap parts on a guess. I WAS trying to make gentle fun of some things that go on here, but not the OP or anyone specifically in this thread.