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Old 12-28-2022, 09:34 AM #1
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Checklist for 35s? Or am I just dreaming.

Hey y’all. I’m about to pull the trigger for the jump to 35s.

Right now I have 285/75/16, no issues with rubbing except reversing at full lock.

• I’m going to be getting 35x10.5r17s. Going to be tubbing the wheel wells and fenders.
• Not sure what wheels yet. Some TRD Pro ones would be cool. Or just some steelies. Suggestions?
• I have 1.25” spidertrax, depending on wheel offset, I can keep or remove those.
• I have a 1” BL not installed, should I throw that on, too? Also a front spacer, less than 1”.
• JBA UCAs?
• Will get 4.88 gears most likely.

What else?

edit: this is how she sits now Imgur: The magic of the Internet. OME 891 and 890 with billy 5100s.
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Last edited by blairracd; 12-28-2022 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 12-28-2022, 11:30 AM #2
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Are you planning to tub your firewall yourself? Here's an awesome and detailed writeup on it either way. You'll definitely want some aftermarket UCAs, most folks will point you towards SPCs so you can adjust your tires as far forward away from the firewall as possible. Aftermarket bumpstops (Durobumps or Timbrens) will be your friend as well.

DIY: Tubbing the firewall to clear 35" tires (3G4R)
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Old 12-28-2022, 11:32 AM #3
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I’d probably get 5.29 gears with 35s, if it’s a manual then 4.88 might be ok
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Old 12-28-2022, 01:58 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RomanSchnobrich View Post
Are you planning to tub your firewall yourself? Here's an awesome and detailed writeup on it either way. You'll definitely want some aftermarket UCAs, most folks will point you towards SPCs so you can adjust your tires as far forward away from the firewall as possible. Aftermarket bumpstops (Durobumps or Timbrens) will be your friend as well.

DIY: Tubbing the firewall to clear 35" tires (3G4R)
Thank you! No, not myself, I’m going to have someone do it. Definitely new UCAs; I’ve been meaning to do that ever since I got the 285s on.

Oh, SPCs? I thought most folk said JBAs — I remember doing a lot of research between the two and I still have a bookmark for the JBAs only.

I will add bump stops to the list as well!
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Old 12-28-2022, 02:00 PM #5
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I’d probably get 5.29 gears with 35s, if it’s a manual then 4.88 might be ok
I’m still debating between the two. It is an automatic. The reason I am leaning towards 4.88 rather than 5.29 is just for the “just in case” I ever move back down; though I don’t plan to. I’m going to be getting a Tacoma soon, so the 4R will be moving over to my weekender.
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Old 12-28-2022, 02:05 PM #6
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Should I have the 1” body lift installed, too? Ditch or keep the spacers?
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Old 12-28-2022, 04:07 PM #7
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I don't think those JBA's have a caster adjustment like the SPC's, which you will certainly want.
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Old 12-28-2022, 10:17 PM #8
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Originally Posted by cblock406 View Post
I don't think those JBA's have a caster adjustment like the SPC's, which you will certainly want.
Gotcha! I will be looking for those then, thank you!
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Old 12-28-2022, 10:21 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RomanSchnobrich View Post
Are you planning to tub your firewall yourself? Here's an awesome and detailed writeup on it either way. You'll definitely want some aftermarket UCAs, most folks will point you towards SPCs so you can adjust your tires as far forward away from the firewall as possible. Aftermarket bumpstops (Durobumps or Timbrens) will be your friend as well.
What size/length bumpstops?
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Old 12-29-2022, 01:25 PM #10
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Quote:
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Should I have the 1” body lift installed, too? Ditch or keep the spacers?
I highly recommend the 1” body lift. It might even get rid of the rubbing you’re getting now.

I can’t answer your spacers question. You’ll know if you need them. I have the 1.25” Spidertrax on my 4th gen. I don’t know if I need them, but I like the look with them.
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Old 12-29-2022, 02:05 PM #11
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I highly recommend the 1” body lift. It might even get rid of the rubbing you’re getting now.
It certainly would help for now. I did a lot of cutting and hammering before and I only rub a little bit in reverse at full lock or when my suspension fully cycles. I am going to be going with 35x10.5r17s, though, so I’m thinking that I might not need it, and want to keep the COG as low as possible.
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Old 12-29-2022, 02:15 PM #12
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Originally Posted by blairracd View Post
What size/length bumpstops?
That'll depend on how much lift you want to achieve. I have the extended versions as my 4Runner has a decent lift, maybe 4" higher in the back and 2.5" higher in the front. Interestingly enough, Durobumps used to offer an extended version for the front but it doesn't seem like that's the case anymore.
You also have to consider if you'd rather be hitting your bumps too early or late-- would you rather lose some of your shock travel or risk damaging/blowing your shocks?

3rd Gen Archives - DuroBumps - Toyota Bump Stops for 4Runner, Tacoma, Tundra, FJ Cruiser
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Old 12-30-2022, 01:29 PM #13
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Originally Posted by RomanSchnobrich View Post
That'll depend on how much lift you want to achieve. I have the extended versions as my 4Runner has a decent lift, maybe 4" higher in the back and 2.5" higher in the front. Interestingly enough, Durobumps used to offer an extended version for the front but it doesn't seem like that's the case anymore.
You also have to consider if you'd rather be hitting your bumps too early or late-- would you rather lose some of your shock travel or risk damaging/blowing your shocks?

3rd Gen Archives - DuroBumps - Toyota Bump Stops for 4Runner, Tacoma, Tundra, FJ Cruiser

I’m around the same lift as you. And definitely earlier.
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