Is this going to be your main fuel tank? Or is this going to be an auxiliary fuel tank for extra fuel? Few things I’ve learned since doing my f150 swap (main tank). Use hard fuel lines don’t use rubber. You can use AN lines but have to get the plastic lined ones. Do it right and run hard lines though (I used copper nickel lines from 4lifetimelines). I’ve replaced the fuel lines 3 times at this point because I keep my 4runner in the garage and can’t stand smelling fuel vapor when I walk by it. You will get vapor seeping through any rubber line I promise you. Also I ended up welding on all the Toyota stuff from my factory tank partly because I have to go through smog but also partly because I’ve read that the ford fuel pump is not equivalent to the oem Toyota one. They do however make pumps that you can swap in that are equivalent but are $$. Get the upper straps for the tank as well, very hard to find and I don’t remember where I got them but definitely good to have so your tank isn’t just floating back there. If you can avoid doing the f150 tank swap then do so, I wish I would’ve left my stock tank honestly. Reason I had to move it was because I installed dual transfercases and kept the automatic transmission. In hindsight I should’ve just gotten a manual transmission and not done the f150 tank. Hope this is helpful.

Edit: oh yea and don’t mess up the two lines that are the same size or else you’ll be filling up you charcoal canister with gas, ask me how I know lol…

This was going to be my main tank.

Thank you very much for your input, you got me rethinking my plan. Maybe this project is more involved than I really want it to be, to not be done half ass. I thought another benefit of doing this tank swap was more room for dual cases as you mentioned (on my wish list to do some day). But I did a little reading and it seems going dual cases in my auto 96 is still doable with the factory tank in place. Really glad I haven't ordered any of the parts yet.

Reading through your build you definitely have spent a lot of time on getting your modifications really dialed in. Unfortunately I don't have as much free time to "build", that's part of the reason I bought a rig that was pretty built already.

Ryan

No problem, glad I could use my learning/experiences to help someone else. Honestly I went into the f150 tank swap thinking the same thing your thinking that it was pretty simple cut and dry, in reality it’s super custom and I had to do a lot of “learn it the hard way” lol. Dual cases is possible to keep the stock tank with auto but you will have to modify the crossmember and maybe a little on the tank itself, hard to say. If you want to keep the auto I recommend looking into northwestfab, a few ppl on here have his dual case setup. Not sure as to how proven his setup is compared to marlin crawler/TG though. For measurements sake I think marlins/TG is 8.5” vs northwest fab is 6.5” added length to your drivetrain, go and measure from the back of your transfercase and you will see.

@T4topher I crawled under the 4runner and have about 10” from rear t-case flange to the gas tank. I did a little reading on the northwestoy setup.

As long as you have a Jshift Tcase without the Actuator motor on the back, you can run the NWFab kit.

yes I have a J shift T case

Ok I guess I have to start a new post. I believe I'm giving up on the F150 tank swap, too involved for me at this time. So I'm back to replacing factory tank, getting a new pump/sending unit and then protect it with a proper skid plate (rest of belly has RCI front & trans skids with a homemade t case skid).

Now there seems to be 2 best options, either from Lil Skips or from Victory 4x4. Any options on either brand would be appreciated.

Ryan

I'm not seeing a fuel tank skid on Victory 4x4's website

Gas Tank Skid Plate | 4Runner (96+) & GX (03+) - Victory 4x4

Not sure if this link will work?

That's weird. I went to the 3rd gen 4Runner product section and it wasn't there.

I would go with the Lil Skips to support the little guy. A lot of Victory 4x4's products look like copycats or heavily influenced by someone else's product in my opinion.

Honestly that was my first thought, support the little guy. Thank you for seconding that thought.

Ryan

I can't speak to the victory skid, but the lil skips is very stout. Drop onto rocks with reckless abandon stout.

Lil Skip will notch the skid for special sliders if needed (shrockworks bolt-on for example) at no charge.

happen to b doing a few things that required dropping the OEM tank. I added a fuel drain plug to said a while back and wanted to spray out all the crap that gets between the tank and skid so that is why the holes in the skid. This is a DIY fuel skid that has held up nicely over the yrs. Needs a little TLC.

@clearock that looks like it gets the job done.

I went with the @lilskips gas tank skid (super beefy) just need to paint it. I already got a new pump/sending unit and a new fuel filter. Need to go pick up a used gas tank from the recycle yard as mine has large dent in it (you can see where the metal is pinched).

But today going to try to correct my alignment, got knocked out of whack wheeling last weekend.