I'm getting ready to pull the trigger to order everything I need to do the F150 tank swap into my 96. But I may still have questions also.

1) EimKeith FTR kit

2) Spectra #F1G1FA Fuel Tank with Pump (Rock Auto seems to have best price)

3) Vapor Valve #E7DZ-9B593-A (probably from Amazon)
Vapor Valve Seal

4) Autometer #3618 Fuel Gauge 16E/158F ohm (Summit)

5) Weld in bung to use factory vent tube (does anyone know what size?)

6) Various sizes of fuel line and fuel injection clamps to connect everything.

Anything I'm missing?

Thank You,
Ryan

@Team_Jake sending unit kit if they're still available.
Weld in vent for 1/2" hose.

I think I see what you're doing with the Vapor Valve #E7DZ-9B593-A. If you plan to use it for the evap line that goes to the charcoal canister, it will probably work. I still think I would weld the flange for the Toyota evap hose over the center hole in the tank instead though. The internal hole in the Ford style valve is probably 1/16".

Put a good amount of thought into what you want to use for fuel lines. My last time around I used the Ford quick connect fittings and nylon fuel line. Added some inverted flare to barbed fittings on the hard lines near the fuel filter. I'm happy with how that turned out but I probably couldn't have done it without the Eastwood flaring tool.

I just did this about 9 months ago, so let me know if you have any more questions.

I thought the @Team_Jake sending unit kit only worked on 99-02 rigs?

I got the Vapor Valve part from @AssBurns write up on his swap.

Thank you for your advice.

Ryan

Correct, my sending unit kit is only for 99-02 4unners (3rd gens with a digital odometer). I believe using a calibration device like the one made by Speedway can get the fuel gauge in the dash to work like stock on '96-'98 4runners.

Thank you for the suggestion @Team_Jake . Hadn't come across that calibration device trying to read through stuff. I wonder if anyone has successfully used that device on their 96-98 swap? I'd rather not have to mount a separate fuel gauge.

This doesn't have to do with fitting the tank in the truck, but wouldn't it be pretty unsafe for the gas tank to be right there in the event of a rear end accident?

I'm quite certain my CBI rear bumper offers plenty of protection of my rear end

Many popular 4x4s locate the gas tank behind the rear axle from the factory. Jeep XJs, ZJs, WJs, all pre 2021 Ford Broncos, all K5 Blazers, I could go on.

True, although none of those vehicles were known for their safety. IIHS and NHTSA are valuable resources to look into this. Our 3rd gens have very high crash test ratings, just wondering if this would have an effect on that.

3rd gens are not safe trucks. These things are notorious for rollovers, hence why in 2000 Toyota lowered the stock ride height. Then all of us decide we want to lift our 4Runner a couple inches with larger tires, raising the COG is a few inches higher than stock making the problem worse. The ABS systems are also worthless, so that rollover may have been avoided if you were able to stop in time. If safety is your concern then sell the 4Runner and get a Volvo.

The actual crash test safety ratings for 4Runners are very good. Rollovers and abs “problems” are more accredited to non defensive driving. Of course a 20-25 year old body on frame suv isn’t going to have great accident avoidance or short stopping distances. That’s on the driver to know what they are driving and to drive that vehicle accordingly.

@midcoma I like your suggestion about welding in the Toyota evap flange over that hole, leaning that way now.

@Team_Jake I called Speedway and explained the swap I'm intending and the tech was 80-90% sure their fuel gauge calibration device should work. Plus the device is barely more $ than an aftermarket fuel gauge.

Thanks guys.

I have the F150 tank from Spectra in my 4runner. I bought a different calibration device but ended up not using it, the calibration process was such a massive PITA. In the end, I hooked the Ford sender up to the original gauge. Most of the time the needle is at E for the Extra tank, when it gets to full I know I'm going to run out of gas soon. When it starts sputtering I hit the button to switch back to stock tank.

The biggest questions I have are A) how are you going to fill the tank. I was never able to figure out a way to make it really work without spilling gas all over the ground, and B) are you going to replace the fuel pump. The Ford fuel pump doesn't put out enough flow for the 4runner engine in 2nd gear when you go wide open throttle.

My plan is to just have the Ford pump dump into the OEM tank via the Fuel Filler neck. No need to hook up to the factory fuel lines or worry about evap problems. There was another member on here who did it that way.

The reasons why I planned to do this swap was 1)my factory is all dented up, thus my sending unit is messed up. 2)I'm tired of my driveshaft rubbing on the factory skid plate.

A) My plan was to eliminate the factory tank, so I was going to reroute a fill tube to the new rear mounted tank. B) I was unaware of the Ford fuel pump being inadequate, I didn't come across that in my reading up. If that's the case, you have me rethinking this.

Doing the F150 tank swap came in cheaper than replacing the factory tank, getting a new pump/sending unit and then getting a proper tank skid plate.