Hey all. Ok so I just bought my 3rd, 3rd gen and I wanna put a body lift..no more than 2”. I don’t wanna have a monster truck look, just slightly tougher than stock.
The pics below are 1) my truck currently (first pic)
2) how I want mine to look (second pic) but just a skosh higher. And here are the mods to truck I want mine to look like. Are these appropriate lift mods for the truck? Should he have done anything else not listed when he did the lift? Btw, mine already sits slightly higher than stock bc it had Bilstein 5100’s on it when I got it. Mine also needs LBJ’s but I think if I put OEM back on,? the lift won’t work and I’d need different LBJ’s, right?
thanks in advance!
Here are the lift mods to the truck in the second pic:
Freedom Off Road UCA
Bilstein 5100 front
Toytec rear struts
Toytec rear spring HEAVY DUTY (for towing/firmer ride)
New OEM 2x Lower Ball Joint (both sides)
New OEM Clockspring
New OEM Intermediate Steering Shaft
Last edited by flygirl0344; 01-25-2023 at 12:03 PM.
Don't do a body lift unless you're trying to clear 35's then only doa 1" BL. Take your running boards off and get some 33's, you'll be the most happy with this I promise.
Don't do a body lift unless you're trying to clear 35's then only doa 1" BL. Take your running boards off and get some 33's, you'll be the most happy with this I promise.
I agree, take the running boards off, you gain like 5 Inches of rocker clearance doing so.
From the ground to the bottom of my rockers went from 18 to 22 when I took mine off
Hey all. Ok so I just bought my 3rd, 3rd gen and I wanna put a body lift..no more than 2”. I don’t wanna have a monster truck look, just slightly tougher than stock.
The pics below are 1) my truck currently (first pic)
2) how I want mine to look (second pic) but just a skosh higher. And here are the mods to truck I want mine to look like. Are these appropriate lift mods for the truck? Should he have done anything else not listed when he did the lift? Btw, mine already sits slightly higher than stock bc it had Bilstein 5100’s on it when I got it. Mine also needs LBJ’s but I think if I put OEM back on,? the lift won’t work and I’d need different LBJ’s, right?
thanks in advance!
Here are the lift mods to the truck in the second pic:
Freedom Off Road UCA
Bilstein 5100 front
Toytec rear struts
Toytec rear spring HEAVY DUTY (for towing/firmer ride)
New OEM 2x Lower Ball Joint (both sides)
New OEM Clockspring
New OEM Intermediate Steering Shaft
Like mentioned above, I'd only recommend a 1" body, if you're going to do one at all. That's what I have like many others here. It doesn't seem that anything is missing so I wouldn't worry too much about that. Shocks don't come into play with ride height, that's the springs. LBJ's shouldn't have anything to do with a life either, afaik, but I would always and only recommend OEM lower ball joints. Every. Single. Time. That's one of the "cons" about our trucks, and so it's always best to play it safe when it comes to major things like that.
Hey all. Ok so I just bought my 3rd, 3rd gen and I wanna put a body lift..no more than 2”. I don’t wanna have a monster truck look, just slightly tougher than stock.
The pics below are 1) my truck currently (first pic)
2) how I want mine to look (second pic) but just a skosh higher. And here are the mods to truck I want mine to look like. Are these appropriate lift mods for the truck? Should he have done anything else not listed when he did the lift? Btw, mine already sits slightly higher than stock bc it had Bilstein 5100’s on it when I got it. Mine also needs LBJ’s but I think if I put OEM back on,? the lift won’t work and I’d need different LBJ’s, right?
thanks in advance!
Here are the lift mods to the truck in the second pic:
Freedom Off Road UCA
Bilstein 5100 front
Toytec rear struts
Toytec rear spring HEAVY DUTY (for towing/firmer ride)
New OEM 2x Lower Ball Joint (both sides)
New OEM Clockspring
New OEM Intermediate Steering Shaft
Use OEM lower ball joints and lower ball joint bolts. They are not a limiting factor for lift height or suspension travel.
Not sure why you have it listed, but the clockspring and intermediate shaft do not need replaced when lifting your vehicle.
I'll just follow up with the others and recommend 33's. I currently have my 96 SR5 on stock control arms with tundra springs and bilstein 5100 shocks....the ride is definitely more rough then normal (since Tundra is much heavier) but it gets you that nice 2 inch suspension lift from the shocks. Soon I'm likely changing to Radflo so it'll be more comfortable, but Tundra springs/coils are uber cheap since owners have them lieing around.
Had 33 M/T's at one point and now I swapped to A/T's and I have never rubbed regardless of the angle or terrain I was on.
I'll echo what somebody else mentioned, don't do a body lift. You're better off with a suspension lift. A suspension lift is more of an investment, but it's the preferred way to lift your vehicle. If you're just doing it just for looks, a body lift is fine. If you're doing it to make your rig more off road capable, a suspension lift is better. But, if you still want to go for it, I have a video that will show you how to do a 2" body lift, made by ToyTec.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
Don't do a body lift unless you're trying to clear 35's then only doa 1" BL. Take your running boards off and get some 33's, you'll be the most happy with this I promise.
ID, based on the second pic I posted (what I want mine to look like), do you think he did this..?
I'll just follow up with the others and recommend 33's. I currently have my 96 SR5 on stock control arms with tundra springs and bilstein 5100 shocks....the ride is definitely more rough then normal (since Tundra is much heavier) but it gets you that nice 2 inch suspension lift from the shocks. Soon I'm likely changing to Radflo so it'll be more comfortable, but Tundra springs/coils are uber cheap since owners have them lieing around.
Had 33 M/T's at one point and now I swapped to A/T's and I have never rubbed regardless of the angle or terrain I was on.
McLoven, ok so a "..suspension lift" sounds like it happens by default with the tundra springs on the 5100's..is this right? If so, does this mean all of the steering stuff, fuel hoses, etc have to be replaced/extended? Someone told me this is the case if I do a sus lift, which is part of the reason I only want a body lift. Not even for off roading purposes, mostly just for looks.
I like IronHorses on this thread's look! That's what i'm going for.
McLoven, ok so a "..suspension lift" sounds like it happens by default with the tundra springs on the 5100's..is this right? If so, does this mean all of the steering stuff, fuel hoses, etc have to be replaced/extended? Someone told me this is the case if I do a sus lift, which is part of the reason I only want a body lift. Not even for off roading purposes, mostly just for looks.
I like IronHorses on this thread's look! That's what i'm going for.
No, you don't need to replace or extend those unless you're doing something extreme. if you go above a three inch lift it's recommended that you drop your diff and other stuff.
ID, based on the second pic I posted (what I want mine to look like), do you think he did this..?
The one you posted in the picture has the running boards removed and probably 33's. I would try to contact that person and see what info he has for ya. You will most likely be happiest with a 2.5-3" (I recommend 2.5" though) suspension lift and 33" tires because that's the highest lift without really starting to take a crap on upper/lower ball joints, cv axles, not having good alignment, etc. 33's are the largest tire that won't rub on that height lift with daily driving, won't stress driveline parts, and still be able to have some semblance of acceleration without a regear.