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Old 01-29-2023, 02:57 PM #31
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This is the blades I use. Diablo from Home Depot. They last longer than any other blade.

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I think I’ve used them before. ACE is two miles from me and HomeDepot is 10 miles so I usually stop at ACE first.

That blade suffered from cutting the lower control arm bolt off on my Saturn. I kept hitting the hardened sleeve the bolt was rusted into.


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Old 01-29-2023, 03:01 PM #32
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Hitting the inner piece with the wire wheel. Most of the inner steel isn’t needed. The repair sleeve welds to the frame around 1” from the top.


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Old 01-29-2023, 04:07 PM #33
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The sleeve will hold it. I just overkill. It's just my nature...

Glad to see you cleaned it up good before putting the sleeve on as that's the best way to do it.

I seen lots of folks just weld it over and call it good. Not realizing the rot is just going to eat their patch too.

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Old 01-29-2023, 04:23 PM #34
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Hitting the outside of the frame with my 6” DA and 80 grit. I’ll encapsulate primer and paint the outside of the frame and put a magnet probe in the frame and pull out the rust scale I can reach.

Then put a flapper sanding wheel in the frame and clean up what I can reach.


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Old 01-29-2023, 05:25 PM #35
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I also feel like wrapping my muffler in heat wrap to try and keep some of the heat off the frame.


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Old 01-29-2023, 05:54 PM #36
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I also feel like wrapping my muffler in heat wrap to try and keep some of the heat off the frame.


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That's probably not a bad idea. As the hot cold cycles is harder on steel making it rust and rot faster.

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Old 01-29-2023, 07:58 PM #37
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All rust prep that I could possibly do without a sand blaster is done and stuff needing sealed up and painted is complete. Tomorrow i will install the sleeve and hammer it into place and weld it into place. Hopefully I got the rust removed enough to allow me to weld it without the porosity from rusty metal……


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Old 01-30-2023, 10:40 AM #38
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Hit it with some weld-through primer or Steelit before you weld the cap on.

Glad you're documenting this step-by-step.
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Old 01-30-2023, 11:55 AM #39
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Hit it with some weld-through primer or Steelit before you weld the cap on.

Glad you're documenting this step-by-step.

I did use Steel-It actually.


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Old 01-30-2023, 04:52 PM #40
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Some fitment trimming I guess…..




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Old 01-30-2023, 04:53 PM #41
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I’m probably going to pull it off and grind the lower part of the opening for the body mount and repaint and try again tomorrow.


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Old 01-30-2023, 05:22 PM #42
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Repairing the Passenger Side Rear Lower Control Arm Rusty Mount.





I haven’t found a better electric die grinder other than the big blue Mikita. I’ve replaced the bearings three times so far.

Going to hit the bare steel with paint and put a coat or two of black on the inside.


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Old 01-30-2023, 07:44 PM #43
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When I do crap like this I always hit what I’m paint with a propane torch and burn off the condensation and then hit it with paint while it’s still warm/hot.

Tomorrow morning I’ll check fitment and go from there.


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Old 01-30-2023, 09:30 PM #44
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Nice work so far. It's numbing to see the amount of 3rd gen frames ravaged by salt/brine/etc.

If you haven't looked into it already, consider going nuts with Fluid Film under the truck. Within the frame rails, front to back, and everything else under the truck . I try to do it ever year or so to both of my 3rd gens. For inside the frame, I use a long wand and the aerosol FF cans. For the rest of the underside, I use a sprayer hooked to shop air. Any bit helps in the war on corrosion....


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Old 01-31-2023, 11:06 AM #45
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Nice work so far. It's numbing to see the amount of 3rd gen frames ravaged by salt/brine/etc.

If you haven't looked into it already, consider going nuts with Fluid Film under the truck. Within the frame rails, front to back, and everything else under the truck . I try to do it ever year or so to both of my 3rd gens. For inside the frame, I use a long wand and the aerosol FF cans. For the rest of the underside, I use a sprayer hooked to shop air. Any bit helps in the war on corrosion....


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You can get fluid film in 1 gallon and 5 gallon buckets. The issue is it will just wash off. If using it just by itself. You are going to still deal with rust unless you're constantly coating the steel with FF. The steel it product is another encapsulated product just like coroseal does.

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