[shadow247]

Originally Posted by Speedy

Looks like I'm gonna need some longer front sway bar end links. I did notice the sway bar is pulled down a bit up front but thought it would be fine since it drove OK, but when the tires are off the ground on a jack I can see the steering rack boot (and inner tie rod) will make contact with the sway bar. This would be a very rare occurrence, but I'm OCD and want it right.

I've got Addco say bars, so I need something probably 2 inches longer but that are straight. I can probably build my own with some 9 or 10" long grade 8 bolts and a stainless (or other) 1/2" OD tube. Anyone know of anything premade? I'd rather not go with some $200 adjustables, disconnectables, etc. Wanna keep it simple.

2nd Gen Rear links are what you want. That's what I ran on my 99 when I had the Tundra front springs and about 2.5 inches of lift.

[Speedy]

Originally Posted by shadow247

2nd Gen Rear links are what you want. That's what I ran on my 99 when I had the Tundra front springs and about 2.5 inches of lift.

I don't think those will work with the Addco sway bar up front. The end link needs to be the straight type without 90° joint.

I found Energy Suspension makes "universal" links like I need you just measure for size. Something like this should work:

Amazon.com: ENERGY SUSPN Energy Suspension 9.8124G End Link Set with Hardware : Automotive

More to come...

[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by Speedy

I don't think those will work with the Addco sway bar up front. The end link needs to be the straight type without 90° joint.

More to come...

The 90* joint is on the bottom (a-arm) side of things - or am I missing something? (I have addco bars - the stock arms seemed to work until I bent them and upgraded to disconnects)

Addco bar with worn and bent stock endlink:


-Charlie

[Speedy]

Originally Posted by phattyduck

The 90* joint is on the bottom (a-arm) side of things - or am I missing something? (I have addco bars - the stock arms seemed to work until I bent them and upgraded to disconnects)

Addco bar with worn and bent stock endlink:


-Charlie

Where the link in your image connects to the lower A-arm, mine has an add on triangular piece that bolts in (supplied by Addco) then the link goes through that straight through a hole in the top.

[Speedy]

Front sway bar end links replaced with Energy Suspension extended units. This solved the problem of the sway bar hitting the rack boots at full droop. Unless it's my imagination the ride is greatly improved as well. Maybe the sway bar being pulled down was causing it to be firmer than it needed to be dunno.

However, as a results of my error the steering rack boots have small tears in them where the inner tie rod rubbed the sway bar, so I have to replace the boots next

These Energy Suspension end links are much beefier than the ones that originally came with the Addco sway bars. Took care of the oil change while it was in the shop as well.

[Speedy]

Fixed the steering boots and checked tie rods while I was in there and they were still in good shape.

Video in third post.

No bueno


Bueno!


Now it's on to the exterior. I looked in to doing a color change paint job, but it's just cost prohibitive and SEVERAL people talked me out of it including some of you guys. SO, I'm gonna go with plan B. First step is to get the flares removed which I'm kind of dreading to be honest. Not sure how difficult that'll be without destroying them so wish me luck.

[brillo_76]

Good luck and take your time. The flares will come off...

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

[Spiker Engineering]

There are few difficult-to-find fasteners along the way, be sure you get them out before yanking on the flares thinking it's just tape .

It'll look a bit naked and perforated, for sure:

[Speedy]

@Spiker Engineering any tips? Luckily mine doesn't have the door cladding, just the flares. Poking around today I see some rivets on the door flares. Just bolts on the front fenders?

[Spiker Engineering]

Originally Posted by Speedy

@Spiker Engineering any tips? Luckily mine doesn't have the door cladding, just the flares. Poking around today I see some rivets on the door flares. Just bolts on the front fenders?

I followed some tutorials on the forums, and the parts diagram. Most of the attachments are just clips. Mine had rivets at each end of the front flares - not to the body, but to the brackets you see in the picture.

Also, as I recall, rivets at the front of the rear flares. And some screws holding the rear flares to the rear doors that I had to access from behind the door trim panel. But your truck may be different. Just go slow and be deliberate - you always are anyway!

[Speedy]

I've been busy and gotten A LOT done. Updates coming.

In the mean time, I've restored my original Toyota hood deflector, bug deflector, whatever people call them. It originally had 4 small rubber bumpers attached to the hood to protect the hood from the deflector hitting it. Those fell off long ago and my truck has seen stints to the speed limiter of 110MPH many times. No contact between hood and deflector.

Having said that I like to obsess over simple things it's just how I roll. What do you guys that have these deflectors do? Use bumpers or go without?

I've sourced new bumpers and have them on the work bench but prefer the cleaner install without them.

[Spiker Engineering]

Originally Posted by Speedy

Having said that I like to obsess over simple things it's just how I roll. What do you guys that have these deflectors do? Use bumpers or go without?

I've sourced new bumpers and have them on the work bench but prefer the cleaner install without them.

I'm using the bumpers with my OEM deflector .

[Speedy]

In today's episode of simple things to obsess over....

Picked up a new label for the brake fluid reservoir. It's not the original yellow/aluminum decal it's just vinyl. I could re-use the worn original but I'd have to find some adhesive. Maybe some 3M 77 that costs more than the new label lol.

[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by Speedy

In today's episode of simple things to obsess over....

Picked up a new label for the brake fluid reservoir. It's not the original yellow/aluminum decal it's just vinyl. I could re-use the worn original but I'd have to find some adhesive. Maybe some 3M 77 that costs more than the new label lol.

Very nice, Speedy. As we all know, it's about the little things. Just curious, how did you find this?

[JoeT4R]

Originally Posted by Speedy

I've been busy and gotten A LOT done. Updates coming.

In the mean time, I've restored my original Toyota hood deflector, bug deflector, whatever people call them. It originally had 4 small rubber bumpers attached to the hood to protect the hood from the deflector hitting it. Those fell off long ago and my truck has seen stints to the speed limiter of 110MPH many times. No contact between hood and deflector.

Having said that I like to obsess over simple things it's just how I roll. What do you guys that have these deflectors do? Use bumpers or go without?

I've sourced new bumpers and have them on the work bench but prefer the cleaner install without them.

I go without. When I first bought my truck almost 11 years ago, it was completely OEM. So it had those hood bumps. Silly me but I removed them because I didn't want the deflector on. Years go by and I bought an AVS deflector. It came with 4 clear bumps but they aren't the horn shaped ones like the OEM ones. No issues to report though. I wouldn't be too concerned about them (that's just me)