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Old 03-03-2023, 11:29 AM #46
Rushthezeppelin Rushthezeppelin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
I keep it in mind, I actually end up doing it like 95% of the time. and its great to know that its you mess with the ball joints and tie rods its a great idea to get an alignment done.
Even though, you don't change the parts :-) Naturally, changing the tie rod ends you need alignment. I just did think taking off loose a lower ball joint and bolts that were torqued
to spec. to change a CV joint. Then new lower ball joint bolts I would need to have the alignment checked.
That's odd, I've taken off my LBJs (not unbolted them from the spindle but popped them off the LCA) and my TREs multiple times on my truck and never had the alignment get thrown off, at least not noticeably. I could see actually changing the LBJ doing this as you are going from something loose to tight.
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Old 03-03-2023, 11:33 AM #47
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Originally Posted by Rushthezeppelin View Post
That's odd, I've taken off my LBJs (not unbolted them from the spindle but popped them off the LCA) and my TREs multiple times on my truck and never had the alignment get thrown off, at least not noticeably. I could see actually changing the LBJ doing this as you are going from something loose to tight.
Now you know its possible as I wouldn't think it would either. Learn something new everyday..;)

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Old 03-03-2023, 11:52 AM #48
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Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
Now you know its possible as I wouldn't think it would either. Learn something new everyday..;)

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It's more likely the alignment just moved a bit from the last time. I can align my truck, drive 2 weeks, and put it back on the rack. It will have slightly different specs than 2 weeks before...

I have changed my CV axles too many times to count without doing any alignment right away. But I get an alignment 2 or 3x a year anyway, usually after a hard trail run.
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Old 03-03-2023, 03:04 PM #49
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If you are around 250 to 300k is to check the valves for adjustment. It's enough time that your exhaust valves to get too tight and possibly the intake out of spec range.
I wish I had done that when I did my valve cover gaskets around that time... I shouldn't have been lazy about it.

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Old 03-03-2023, 03:18 PM #50
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I wish I had done that when I did my valve cover gaskets around that time... I shouldn't have been lazy about it.

-Charlie
Don't feel bad. I have to as I am in the 290K range when do my van pan covers. I am not looking forward to it as I had to do the timing belt about 10 or 15K ago with a major coolant leak. As that timing belt has to come off along with a reset of the timing belt tensioner ..

So the valve adjustments are project. Checking them can be too..
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Old 03-03-2023, 04:45 PM #51
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i'm only at 150K miles.
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Old 03-03-2023, 05:36 PM #52
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i'm only at 150K miles.
Your in good shape.. for at quite a while yet. I didn't bother even checking the valves on my another engine i put in with 163K on it. :-)
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Old 03-03-2023, 09:30 PM #53
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Got the Bilstein 5100 suspension adjusted this week. Moved up one perch from bottom to 2 on the shocks to level things out in the front. It was a PITA. I have to be missing something. Removing the struts took like 10 minutes, getting them back in like 90 minutes each with a lot of swearing, long pry bars, and praying something didn't slip and chop off my fingers putting in the lower shock bolt.

Third post has video. Good news is that's done, the truck is level, and it rides fine.


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Old 03-06-2023, 03:10 PM #54
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I have to be missing something. Removing the struts took like 10 minutes, getting them back in like 90 minutes each with a lot of swearing, long pry bars, and praying something didn't slip and chop off my fingers putting in the lower shock bolt.
Didn't watch the vid. I have found the best spot for the pry bar is over the upper a-arm, then below the pivot bolt sleeve. Lots of leverage and out of the way of the rest of the suspension with little chance of slipping. One arm pulls down on the bar, the other uses a tool too align the lower bolt then insert it.

-Charlie
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Old 03-06-2023, 03:47 PM #55
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Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
Didn't watch the vid. I have found the best spot for the pry bar is over the upper a-arm, then below the pivot bolt sleeve. Lots of leverage and out of the way of the rest of the suspension with little chance of slipping. One arm pulls down on the bar, the other uses a tool too align the lower bolt then insert it.

-Charlie
That does it, you're off my Christmas list lol.

That wouldn't work for me, my lower ball joints were disconnected which is supposed to make it easy.
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Old 03-06-2023, 04:39 PM #56
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That does it, you're off my Christmas list lol.

That wouldn't work for me, my lower ball joints were disconnected which is supposed to make it easy.
(j/k!)

If that's the case, you should have the pivot bolts (adjusters) loose too. Then you just lift the arm up by hand...

-Charlie
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Old 03-06-2023, 08:19 PM #57
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That must be the missing link for me. I left the A arm pivot bolts tight on both installations and those bushings must have been in a bind.
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Old 03-07-2023, 04:31 PM #58
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In your LBJ replacement video you show using 90119-10933 bolts/washers. I have a 1998 T4R and the OEM part is showing up as 90105-10406.

Do you know if these are interchangeable?
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Old 03-07-2023, 05:28 PM #59
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In your LBJ replacement video you show using 90119-10933 bolts/washers. I have a 1998 T4R and the OEM part is showing up as 90105-10406.

Do you know if these are interchangeable?
That's the older bolt I referenced. The new ones with the washers are an update/upgrade I believe. Spiker Engineering would know he tested them.
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Old 03-07-2023, 06:08 PM #60
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That's the older bolt I referenced. The new ones with the washers are an update/upgrade I believe. Spiker Engineering would know he tested them.
From the article it does not sound like they'd work on my '98.

“BLACK” – Toyota 90119-10933; Bolt with Washer. This bolt is specified for the 2001-2002 4Runner, at locations with the protector boot. It is longer than the other bolts, to accommodate the extra thickness of the protector boot. The “11” head markings also classify it as a Class 11T bolt. The captive washer makes this bolt quite different from the flanged heads of all the other bolts.

Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Lower Ball Joint (LBJ) Bolts - and More!

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