01-30-2023, 01:57 PM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slothy49
I've read a lot of horror stories of the JDM engines having completely false mileage claims and shady histories. Seems like a big gamble. Even if they post compression numbers who's to say they send me the engine those compression readings came from.
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I don't know about any of that, I was using JDM as an example.
Do the research and make your own decision about who you buy from.
The labor cost to do heads is enough to justify a complete engine.
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01-30-2023, 02:01 PM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texmax
I don't know about any of that, I was using JDM as an example.
Do the research and make your own decision about who you buy from.
The labor cost to do heads is enough to justify a complete engine.
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That's if you can even find a shop to do heads. I don't know about other areas but around here. The machine shops that take in engine work are few and far between.. :/
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
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01-30-2023, 02:59 PM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texmax
I don't know about any of that, I was using JDM as an example.
Do the research and make your own decision about who you buy from.
The labor cost to do heads is enough to justify a complete engine.
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I paid a little over 400 to freshen up both heads. Then about 200 for the YotaShop head replacement kit.
Engine shops are all over my area.
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01-30-2023, 04:34 PM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
That's if you can even find a shop to do heads. I don't know about other areas but around here. The machine shops that take in engine work are few and far between.. :/
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Yep.
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99 4wd limited w/ E/locker
3" RC lift-loaded struts. Sonoran Drop diff and adjustable rear Panhard.
JBA Offroad UCA's, Pro comp Raven 16x8 wheels wrapped in 265/75/16 Gladiator Mt ,APOC INDUSTRIES Rear Trailing arms.
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01-30-2023, 04:37 PM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
I paid a little over 400 to freshen up both heads. Then about 200 for the YotaShop head replacement kit.
Engine shops are all over my area.
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It's great that you've got that option in your area.
This person is in Portland, a far piece from PA.
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99 4wd limited w/ E/locker
3" RC lift-loaded struts. Sonoran Drop diff and adjustable rear Panhard.
JBA Offroad UCA's, Pro comp Raven 16x8 wheels wrapped in 265/75/16 Gladiator Mt ,APOC INDUSTRIES Rear Trailing arms.
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01-30-2023, 05:04 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texmax
It's great that you've got that option in your area.
This person is in Portland, a far piece from PA.
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I keep forgetting my area is motorhead. Lots of race tracks in my area and each shop is trying to build the fastest engine. I’m betting Portland isn’t a racing Mecca……
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01-30-2023, 08:27 PM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
I keep forgetting my area is motorhead. Lots of race tracks in my area and each shop is trying to build the fastest engine. I’m betting Portland isn’t a racing Mecca……
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lol! right on.
Yeah, Portland is more known for well, idiocy. No offense to the gentlemen who started this post.
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99 4wd limited w/ E/locker
3" RC lift-loaded struts. Sonoran Drop diff and adjustable rear Panhard.
JBA Offroad UCA's, Pro comp Raven 16x8 wheels wrapped in 265/75/16 Gladiator Mt ,APOC INDUSTRIES Rear Trailing arms.
RETIRED USCG Aviation Mechanic/Hc130h Flight Engineer/HH65-A Flight Mech.
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01-30-2023, 08:30 PM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
I keep forgetting my area is motorhead. Lots of race tracks in my area and each shop is trying to build the fastest engine. I’m betting Portland isn’t a racing Mecca……
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There’s actually a few shops that rebuild heads. Aluminum Head Rebuilders has a really good reputation and gets stuff shipped in from out of state frequently because of their quality. My brothers shop uses them as their exclusive machine shop. So I’m in luck!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texmax
lol! right on.
Yeah, Portland is more known for well, idiocy. No offense to the gentlemen who started this post.
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No offense taken. Got a laugh out of it lol!
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01-30-2023, 08:32 PM
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#25
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Glad your area still has them (More central PA). As my area ( Rural South West PA) almost all of them are closed. I may have to even go a county over or so to get the work done. Or the ones that are still here have too much work it may take several months to get it done. We only have very few left in this county.
Now 20 or 30 years ago, when i was young we had several good machine shops around here that did great work. Amazing how things change and not always for the better. :-(
Maybe things will change in the future for the better. :-) Now i am not saying in a 30 mile to 60 mile radius there aren't more around. I am saying with in 10 to 15 mile radius.. So areas are growing while others are shrinking and slowing dying.
Lot of people opting to just turn over cores at the auto parts stores and have remfg ones to put in trying to save money is most likely the cause.
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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01-30-2023, 09:58 PM
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#26
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Related question -
My 4runner started running rough. Mechanic1 thinks it’s the #6 injector but I replaced all injectors with a set from Motorwest 15,000 miles ago.
Mechanic2 did a compression test on cyl6 and got 175 psi and then a leakdown test and found a 15% leak. He thinks it’s a valve.
Today I took it to Firestone for lifetime alignment and had them run compression test on all cylinders. Here are the results:
1: 190
3: 180
5: 125
2: 90
4: 170
6: 190
Anybody have any suggestions? Could they both be right… like the injector could have failed and that’s what’s causing the currently rough idle but the compression is also a secondary, and larger, issue? Or is the compression obviously causing the rough idle?
Anybody ever try that Engine Restore additive? Some youtube reviews sound promising, for a quick temporary fix anyway.
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Last edited by Langcow1; 01-30-2023 at 10:03 PM.
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01-30-2023, 10:28 PM
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#27
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(Sorry to hijack your thread Slothy! I too am likely looking for a reman from someplace that can get it quicker than Yota1)
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01-31-2023, 01:33 AM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Langcow1
Related question -
My 4runner started running rough. Mechanic1 thinks it’s the #6 injector but I replaced all injectors with a set from Motorwest 15,000 miles ago.
Mechanic2 did a compression test on cyl6 and got 175 psi and then a leakdown test and found a 15% leak. He thinks it’s a valve.
Today I took it to Firestone for lifetime alignment and had them run compression test on all cylinders. Here are the results:
1: 190
3: 180
5: 125
2: 90
4: 170
6: 190
Anybody have any suggestions? Could they both be right… like the injector could have failed and that’s what’s causing the currently rough idle but the compression is also a secondary, and larger, issue? Or is the compression obviously causing the rough idle?
Anybody ever try that Engine Restore additive? Some youtube reviews sound promising, for a quick temporary fix anyway.
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How many miles on your engine? If 250 to 300k. Do a antifreeze leak down test. If the coolant pressure staying. You may need valves adjusted. That one cylinder is really bad.
And bubbles on your antifreeze? That cylinder may have a head gasket issue as well.
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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01-31-2023, 10:19 AM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Langcow1
Related question -
My 4runner started running rough. Mechanic1 thinks it’s the #6 injector but I replaced all injectors with a set from Motorwest 15,000 miles ago.
Mechanic2 did a compression test on cyl6 and got 175 psi and then a leakdown test and found a 15% leak. He thinks it’s a valve.
Today I took it to Firestone for lifetime alignment and had them run compression test on all cylinders. Here are the results:
1: 190
3: 180
5: 125
2: 90
4: 170
6: 190
Anybody have any suggestions? Could they both be right… like the injector could have failed and that’s what’s causing the currently rough idle but the compression is also a secondary, and larger, issue? Or is the compression obviously causing the rough idle?
Anybody ever try that Engine Restore additive? Some youtube reviews sound promising, for a quick temporary fix anyway.
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Sounds like mechanic #1 is throwing a parts dart and doesn't know. Either Mechanics #1&2 are wrong about it being cylinder #6 or the compression readings are incorrect. The compression readings indicate a problem with #2 and #5, but the first 2 mechanics claim it's cylinder #6.
I would recommend trying a different mechanic to do the compression testing and then leak down testing the problem cylinder(s). A leak down test will tell them if it's head gasket, piston rings, or valves/seals.
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