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Old 01-31-2023, 10:52 AM #31
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Man, I said it before and I'll say it again. There are great people on this forum with a wealth of knowledge and advice.

It's a good thing to have help. We need more of that these days.

God Bless you guys!
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Old 02-01-2023, 01:52 AM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texmax View Post
Man, I said it before and I'll say it again. There are great people on this forum with a wealth of knowledge and advice.

It's a good thing to have help. We need more of that these days.

God Bless you guys!
Seconded! Bad Luck has given me good advice on more than one occasion, and thank you to Brillo too. I’m out of town at the moment but will be acting on their advice in the coming week.
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Old 02-12-2023, 03:10 AM #33
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Is there any reason to leak down test the cylinders with good compression? Like any that test above 170?
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Old 02-12-2023, 10:54 AM #34
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Is there any reason to leak down test the cylinders with good compression? Like any that test above 170?
Nope. Leak down test is to determine why a cylinder has low compression. If a cylinder has hood compression then a leak down test won’t find any issues. Generally speaking 10% leak down is the acceptable threshold.
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Old 02-12-2023, 03:38 PM #35
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Ok cool - thanks man
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Old 02-14-2023, 01:29 AM #36
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Ok, re-doing my compression test was good advice. I added a can of Engine Restore and drove it about 120 miles. Got a compression tester from AutoZone and did the test with the engine really warmed up from driving around. Here’s the results (much better than Firestone’s #s posted above):

1: 195
3: 200
5: 200

2: 192
4: 200
6: 195

Engine is still running rough, especially on the highway. Still no check engine light on. What I noticed is that the fresh air intake hose is cracked pretty badly where it connects to the throttle. So I have one of those on order and I’ll see how it runs after that.
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Old 02-14-2023, 04:21 AM #37
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Unless there’s another crack somewhere, it’s not the air intake hose because I wrapped it up with electrical tape and clamped it on tight and I still have the same problem. Maybe it really is the fuel injector. I’d be more convinced if the check engine light was on.
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Old 02-14-2023, 10:14 AM #38
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Originally Posted by Langcow1 View Post
Unless there’s another crack somewhere, it’s not the air intake hose because I wrapped it up with electrical tape and clamped it on tight and I still have the same problem. Maybe it really is the fuel injector. I’d be more convinced if the check engine light was on.
I chased a misfire on my last 4Runner. It never set a code besides P0300. I convinced myself it was injectors, but was wrong on that parts dart. Have you checked the resistance of the coil pack primary and secondary sides?
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Old 02-14-2023, 10:19 AM #39
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Compression looks fairly even now so that let's us know that the piston rings and valves are working good without bad head gaskets.

So this leaves spark and fuel.

What do the plugs look like? When I had an injector fail it threw a misfire code on cylinder 5. We swapped the plug and coil to cylinder 1. Then checked cylinder 5 spark plug . Bone dry. Thus proving the injector was bad.

It's possible the wires are done if you haven't changed the plugs and wires out, probably wouldn't be a bad idea. I have a link on my signature that gives you the specs wiring diagram and what the coils values should be.

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Old 02-14-2023, 04:31 PM #40
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Could the cracked air intake have caused something to fail prematurely? The weird part of this is that I did plugs, wires, coils, O2 sensors, and Motorwest injectors a year and a half ago (14,000 miles). So one of those could have failed but it would be an early failure.

I’m no expert but there was nothing obviously odd looking about any of the spark plugs when I had them out.
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Old 02-14-2023, 05:46 PM #41
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Could the cracked air intake have caused something to fail prematurely? The weird part of this is that I did plugs, wires, coils, O2 sensors, and Motorwest injectors a year and a half ago (14,000 miles). So one of those could have failed but it would be an early failure.

I’m no expert but there was nothing obviously odd looking about any of the spark plugs when I had them out.
I cracked air intake would cause the engine to run lean as its getting too much air. That be it..:-)
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Old 02-15-2023, 05:14 AM #42
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I cracked air intake would cause the engine to run lean as its getting too much air. That be it..:-)

By the air bypassing the MAP sensor.


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Old 02-15-2023, 09:48 AM #43
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By the air bypassing the MAP sensor.


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Correct. Thanks for the add on. As it getting more air then it should causing a lean conditon..

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Old 02-15-2023, 04:30 PM #44
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New hose gets here Fri hopefully, and I have my old ignition coils so I can try swapping with those and see if that makes a difference. I’m also going to try changing the fuel filter. I’m not sure if it has ever been done.
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Old 02-17-2023, 11:30 PM #45
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Well I’ve been going about this bassackwards. My friend suggested that misfiring without the CEL on likely means that the CEL isn’t working. Sure enough, code reader gave me a cylinder 6 misfire. Swapped the ignition coils between 3 & 5, cleared codes, checked again and it’s still a cylinder 6 misfire. I guess it could be the wire or plug but in a roundabout way I am likely back to the #6 injector like the original mechanic said.

(Plugs, wires, coils were all changed with new Densos 14,000 miles ago, and the injectors were changed at the same time with a set from Motorwest, and I do have another set from Motorwest that they sent me a couple of weeks ago under warranty)
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