02-03-2023, 09:49 PM
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#1
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nevada
Posts: 31
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nevada
Posts: 31
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starters - 1.4 vs. 1.8 kw
I have a 1997 4WD 3.4 SR5 manual.
The starter motor just gave up the ghost, after 270K miles. The local Toyota dealer has a starter, but it is the 1.8kw version, which was apparently for colder-climate vehicles. Is there any disadvantage to this? The parts guy at Toyota said it would fit, but I thought I would check - it was hard enough getting the 1.4kw version out through the frame, brake lines, etc., and I hate to fight something into place that won't work, especially as I assume it is a bit bigger.
Anyone have experience here?
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02-03-2023, 10:50 PM
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#2
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Elite Member
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,039
Real Name: Jon
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Elite Member
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Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,039
Real Name: Jon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roscoe67
I have a 1997 4WD 3.4 SR5 manual.
The starter motor just gave up the ghost, after 270K miles. The local Toyota dealer has a starter, but it is the 1.8kw version, which was apparently for colder-climate vehicles. Is there any disadvantage to this? The parts guy at Toyota said it would fit, but I thought I would check - it was hard enough getting the 1.4kw version out through the frame, brake lines, etc., and I hate to fight something into place that won't work, especially as I assume it is a bit bigger.
Anyone have experience here?
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This may help.. They both really should fit I have taken both out as i have factory manuals and autos in v6 only. I dont have any 4 cylinders. :-)
If you ever plan on removing your starter, read this first.
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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02-03-2023, 11:29 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 610
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
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I put a 1.8k in late summer when the old parts house one started needing tapping. I can't tell a difference honestly.
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99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
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02-04-2023, 03:18 AM
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#4
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nevada
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo1
I put a 1.8k in late summer when the old parts house one started needing tapping. I can't tell a difference honestly.
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Ah - OK, that's what I need to know.
Big thumbs up to the sway bar removal, also.
Thanks!!!
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02-04-2023, 10:59 AM
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#6
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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I have pictures in my repair thread on removing it through the inner fender and the exact position it needs to be in.
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02-04-2023, 09:28 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
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Real Name: Jerod
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Oh, I'm jealous you have a manual. It makes that job sooooo much easier as you can remove the starter completely from the vehicle very easily.
You are in Nevada so go with the 1.8KW version.
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02-05-2023, 01:43 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
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No reason to not do the 1.8k really.
Unless there's some differences between the model years, I don't understand all the Installer issues. I removed the 4XI skid plate, and that was it. It is a tight space, and it's a challenge to line up due to the way it's designed without an alignment boss. But in my situation, removal of sway bar or brake line was completely unnecessary.
I do use drive on ramps to lift rigs to work under them.
If I recall right, I think I used a pry bar to hold the starter to get the first bolt started.
My perception is skewed though. Go replace a starter in some semis with a Detroit DDEC 2 or some of that old farm equipment. Way way way less space to work with.
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99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
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