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Old 02-23-2023, 07:12 PM #1
Madarasskishbosh Madarasskishbosh is offline
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Air Bubbles in Radiator.

Hey guys,

I just replaced my radiator and filled it with coolant. Started it and waited for it to warm up meanwhile air bubbles kept coming up. After it had warmed up the bubbles kept coming up and never seemed to stop.

Is this normal or is there some problem? Can it cause problems in my radiator or cooling system?

TIA
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Old 02-23-2023, 07:55 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madarasskishbosh View Post
Hey guys,

I just replaced my radiator and filled it with coolant. Started it and waited for it to warm up meanwhile air bubbles kept coming up. After it had warmed up the bubbles kept coming up and never seemed to stop.

Is this normal or is there some problem? Can it cause problems in my radiator or cooling system?

TIA
I'd check to make sure ur not possible pulling air in from somewhere (not likely), other then the head-gasket or cracked cylinder head. Rev the engine when ur looking at the bubbles and c if the bubbles increases as u increase the amount of throttle.

Hopefully u just haven't gotten all the air out of the system from replacing the radiator, did u use a coolant vac when u filled?

Last edited by clearock; 02-23-2023 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 02-23-2023, 08:47 PM #3
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Check it in few days.. you still have bubbles, you have a leak or head or head gasket issue. Your compression good?

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Old 02-23-2023, 08:59 PM #4
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Will have to check based on everyones’ recommendations. Thank you. Will get back to you all in a few days.
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Old 02-23-2023, 11:05 PM #5
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I vote on the blown head gasket too.
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Old 02-23-2023, 11:13 PM #6
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Originally Posted by nutsaboutsoccer View Post
I vote on the blown head gasket too.
It's possible.... could be pulling air from else too.

The quick test if the coolant system is sealed. Is to see if you are pulling and pushing coolant to your overflow tank.


If it doesn't and your radiator cap is good. You have coolant seeps and leaks somewhere.

The best test is a leak down test for this.

I am sure the OP will narrow it down..

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Old 02-23-2023, 11:24 PM #7
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The cooling system on these are difficult to purge the air from. Try using a “spill free funnel” and parking facing uphill to get the air bubbles out of the engine. You’ll also want to turn your heat and rear heat (if equipped) on as well.

This is the spill free funnel that I use: Lisle 24780 Spill Free Funnel with Standard/GM/VW/Ford Adapters https://a.co/d/hwSliuB

EDIT and slight rant: Why are people assuming it’s the head gasket? Isn’t it much more likely that there’s air pockets in the cooling system from having to drain the system to replace the radiator?

Where has diagnostic reasoning gone? Ever since I did “X” then “Y” has happened. THAT’S BECAUSE “X” CAUSED “Y”!!! “Ever since I pulled this fuse my radio stopped working, could it be the battery?” NO!!! IT’S THE MISSING FUSE!!! “Ever since I replaced my valve cover gaskets I got a P0171 lean code, could it be my injectors or my air/fuel sensor?” NO, AGAIN! IT’S THE VACUUM LEAK YOU CAUSED BECAUSE YOU DIDN’T PUT THAT VACUUM HOSE ON OR DIDN’T PUT THAT INTAKE GASKET BACK! See where I’m going with this?…
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Last edited by Bad Luck; 02-23-2023 at 11:55 PM.
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Old 02-24-2023, 05:19 AM #8
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With no loose coolant hoses and a good radiator cap your cooling system should purge the air out in around three drive cycles.

Keep topping off your expansion tank.


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Old 02-24-2023, 08:47 AM #9
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Everyone was really helpful.

I don’t think I have a blow HG. There would be more symptoms with that and I haven’t experienced none.

I believe the air simply hasn’t been expelled out completely. I say this because I had been driving it with a leaking radiator (hole in rad) for about two weeks. I just kept topping it off and never really waited for the air to be released. My transmission fluid is as good as can be (no milkshake). And my engine oil is pure also (no sludge whatsoever).
When I drained it I only collected about 1/2 gallon of coolant.
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Old 02-24-2023, 11:10 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
The cooling system on these are difficult to purge the air from. Try using a “spill free funnel” and parking facing uphill to get the air bubbles out of the engine. You’ll also want to turn your heat and rear heat (if equipped) on as well.

This is the spill free funnel that I use: Lisle 24780 Spill Free Funnel with Standard/GM/VW/Ford Adapters https://a.co/d/hwSliuB

EDIT and slight rant: Why are people assuming it’s the head gasket? Isn’t it much more likely that there’s air pockets in the cooling system from having to drain the system to replace the radiator?

Where has diagnostic reasoning gone? Ever since I did “X” then “Y” has happened. THAT’S BECAUSE “X” CAUSED “Y”!!! “Ever since I pulled this fuse my radio stopped working, could it be the battery?” NO!!! IT’S THE MISSING FUSE!!! “Ever since I replaced my valve cover gaskets I got a P0171 lean code, could it be my injectors or my air/fuel sensor?” NO, AGAIN! IT’S THE VACUUM LEAK YOU CAUSED BECAUSE YOU DIDN’T PUT THAT VACUUM HOSE ON OR DIDN’T PUT THAT INTAKE GASKET BACK! See where I’m going with this?…
Because people didn't diagnose the problem. I think it's a good rant myself @badluck . Folks don't want to take the time check and verify. I agree it takes a while to get all the air out of these coolant system.

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Old 02-24-2023, 11:18 AM #11
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Filling the motor with coolant using the upper radiator hose, before connecting it to the radiator and filling it up all the way seems to reduce the air pockets.
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Old 02-24-2023, 12:35 PM #12
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I also had better outcomes filling the cooling system through the upper rad hose going into the motor. And I bleed going through one heat cycle with the spill free funnel Bad Luck mentioned.
Between all that and monitoring the overflow catch container after a going through a couple of heat cycles does a really good job in bleeding the cooling system.
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Old 02-24-2023, 12:37 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madarasskishbosh View Post
...
I believe the air simply hasn’t been expelled out completely. I say this because I had been driving it with a leaking radiator (hole in rad) for about two weeks. I just kept topping it off and never really waited for the air to be released....
Best place I've found to let the cooling system air out is at the point of the heater control valve, the highest point in the entire cooling system. Don't forget to turn the rear heater on for full bubble removal. Luck.
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Old 02-24-2023, 12:48 PM #14
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[QUOTE=Bad Luck;3785381

EDIT and slight rant: Why are people assuming it’s the head gasket? Isn’t it much more likely that there’s air pockets in the cooling system from having to drain the system to replace the radiator?

Where has diagnostic reasoning gone? Ever since I did “X” then “Y” has happened. THAT’S BECAUSE “X” CAUSED “Y”!!! “Ever since I pulled this fuse my radio stopped working, could it be the battery?” NO!!! IT’S THE MISSING FUSE!!! “Ever since I replaced my valve cover gaskets I got a P0171 lean code, could it be my injectors or my air/fuel sensor?” NO, AGAIN! IT’S THE VACUUM LEAK YOU CAUSED BECAUSE YOU DIDN’T PUT THAT VACUUM HOSE ON OR DIDN’T PUT THAT INTAKE GASKET BACK! See where I’m going with this?…[/QUOTE]


That's not a rant that is in fact trouble shooting 101.
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Old 02-24-2023, 01:00 PM #15
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Filling the motor with coolant using the upper radiator hose, before connecting it to the radiator and filling it up all the way seems to reduce the air pockets.

Darn thermostat in the lower radiator hose……..


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