03-10-2023, 12:32 AM
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#16
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official vendor
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Portland
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official vendor
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OK, got it, I'll check the valve lash but hopefully won't need to make any adjustments.
I did do the entire VCG job about 4 years and 20K miles ago - gaskets, half moons, V/C washers, cam plugs (not seals), and spark plug tube seals.
Looking at the VCGs, they are actually still quite soft, so I'm thinking of reusing them - yes?
I'm also thinking of reusing the tube seals unless I end up powder coating the V/Cs, in which case I might want to replace the tube seals after the exposure to cure temperature. Although I'll need to check the temp of powder coat cure vs engine temperature, maybe it's not a concern?
And get new cam plugs?
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03-10-2023, 05:18 AM
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#17
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
Posts: 5,321
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Elite Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
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I have the valve adjustment tool, did three or four valve adjustments with it so far. It’s not bad. Doing it on motorcycles is a lot less fun. 
Examples of how to keep track of everything.
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03-10-2023, 10:42 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: NOVA
Posts: 1,457
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If you pull the valve covers, you might as well check the clearance. I'm assuming it's not often that you're pulling them so it would be a good opportunity to check while you're in there.
Painting the covers? Ehhhh subjective. I think yours look GREAT in my opinion but I also live on the east coast. If it were me, I'd save my time and money and allocate it elsewhere. But if you really wanna do it, I suppose now is the time.
Are you replacing the fuel injectors with rebuilt OEM ones? There's a place somewhere in Cali, can't think of the name right now but I saw it on here recently, that you can send your originals to and they'll clean them up and do whatever they do to restore them like new. I think it's called Motor West performance but double check on that.
Definitely good to replace all those vacuum lines/hoses, that'll save a load of headaches down the road.
Everything else seems to be good in my book, but that's one man's opinion.
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03-10-2023, 11:16 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: NOVA
Posts: 1,457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiker Engineering
OK, got it, I'll check the valve lash but hopefully won't need to make any adjustments.
I did do the entire VCG job about 4 years and 20K miles ago - gaskets, half moons, V/C washers, cam plugs (not seals), and spark plug tube seals.
Looking at the VCGs, they are actually still quite soft, so I'm thinking of reusing them - yes?
I'm also thinking of reusing the tube seals unless I end up powder coating the V/Cs, in which case I might want to replace the tube seals after the exposure to cure temperature. Although I'll need to check the temp of powder coat cure vs engine temperature, maybe it's not a concern?
And get new cam plugs? |
What mileage won't do, time will. And heat. I'd say OEM vcg's are cheap enough that I wouldn't hesitate to buy new ones if you're set on pulling the covers off. No need to reuse them to save a few bucks. Even if they're still soft and supple.
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03-10-2023, 11:51 AM
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#20
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official vendor
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Portland
Posts: 699
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official vendor
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A small detour into refinishing questions - my powder coat guy quoted $375 for the valve covers and plenums. I'm thinking of just going that route instead of screwing around with primers and paint. I'm thinking satin black.
In prep for the powder coat, I'm wondering if it's possible to remove the vacuum ports in the plenums, and getting them replated. Does anyone know how these ports are installed, are they pressed in? Epoxied? Or should I just leave them be and have them powder coated with the plenums?
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03-10-2023, 11:56 AM
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#21
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Senior Member
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Location: Hot Springs, AR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiker Engineering
A small detour into refinishing questions - my powder coat guy quoted $375 for the valve covers and plenums. I'm thinking of just going that route instead of screwing around with primers and paint. I'm thinking satin black.
In prep for the powder coat, I'm wondering if it's possible to remove the vacuum ports in the plenums, and getting them replated. Does anyone know how these ports are installed, are they pressed in? Epoxied? Or should I just leave them be and have them powder coated with the plenums?
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I believe they are pressed in. I would leave them on and protect the sealing area of those from getting any powder coating on it. Good price for powder coating in my opinion.
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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03-10-2023, 12:07 PM
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#23
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official vendor
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Portland
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official vendor
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OK, I'll leave the tubes/ports alone.
@ Bad Luck
, I agree, at that price it's worth just getting it done right, it'll be way more durable than paint. And that shop does good work, they coat of all of my Spiker hardware  .
Is there any way to strip down the throttle body to also get it powder coated (safely)? It's really in crappy shape. I can remove the TPS, the cam/spring assembly (I'll have it replated anyway), the brackets, the dashpot. But not sure about the idle control valve assembly, and also if I can have the throttle body powder coated without completely disassembling it. Suggestions?
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03-10-2023, 03:28 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiker Engineering
OK, I'll leave the tubes/ports alone.
@ Bad Luck
, I agree, at that price it's worth just getting it done right, it'll be way more durable than paint. And that shop does good work, they coat of all of my Spiker hardware .
Is there any way to strip down the throttle body to also get it powder coated (safely)? It's really in crappy shape. I can remove the TPS, the cam/spring assembly (I'll have it replated anyway), the brackets, the dashpot. But not sure about the idle control valve assembly, and also if I can have the throttle body powder coated without completely disassembling it. Suggestions? |
That might be something you would want to use a spare throttle body for. I've never disassembled mine completely or seen it done so there may some components that can't/shouldn't be removed. If you do decide to disassemble it I would video it, because I have terrible memory and will definitely forgot the order I took it apart in after it comes back from powder coating.
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2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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03-10-2023, 04:17 PM
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#25
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official vendor
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Portland
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official vendor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
That might be something you would want to use a spare throttle body for. I've never disassembled mine completely or seen it done so there may some components that can't/shouldn't be removed. If you do decide to disassemble it I would video it, because I have terrible memory and will definitely forgot the order I took it apart in after it comes back from powder coating.
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Agreed, I decided against fully disassembling the TB, that's just too scary. Here is how far I went:
I took a bunch of pictures to aid in reassembly, time will tell if it was enough:
I plan to take the metal parts to the plating shop, along with the other bolts and miscellaneous items that need to be replated:
I'm thinking of just hitting the TB body with some good direct to metal paint and calling it done.
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03-10-2023, 07:32 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
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Real Name: Jerod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
I would. I appreciate
@ gamefreakgc
thoughts on the project as it makes sense, being he was putting performance camshafts. Maybe the person wants to thoroughly inspect the cam and the camshaft bearings.
I don't understand why people wouldn't remark the timing belt if they go that route. Recompress your belt tensioner and reuse your belt if it's very new.. [
like 25k or less] more than thet I just put a new belt in
I have the Fsm along with all of the tools except those toyota Lexus valve adjustment tools. So I just need those and 40 hours of swearing to get this job done...
I can also see people not wanting to do it also. I just at the point where I am going to have to. My valve covers I believe we're never done.. [ I had the rig from 215k] I can't even leave my window down without smelling burning oil. So, being my valve covers, they are coming off anyway. I will be checking and adjusting the valves.
Folks can do what they wish. But by the sounds of it. We have 3 options. I am glad I asked..
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This is the tool - apparently it's getting really hard to find! Lots of places either charging near $100 or out of stock. I paid $29 for mine...
Amazon.com
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03-10-2023, 08:33 PM
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#27
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc
This is the tool - apparently it's getting really hard to find! Lots of places either charging near $100 or out of stock. I paid $29 for mine...
Amazon.com
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I think I paid 36 for mine from Yota or a similar shop a bunch of years ago
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03-10-2023, 08:44 PM
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#28
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official vendor
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Portland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
Be careful how you clean those valve covers - if you use any media, it will be a huge pain to clean out of the crevices (mainly the PCV vent covers).
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@ phattyduck
- the powder coat guy wants to sandblast the castings before finishing them. Do you think I can safely tape off all the openings before taking them in? Or should l I look for a shop that does soda blasting?
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03-11-2023, 05:20 AM
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#29
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I bead blasted mine but I also have access to a parts washer the flush them properly to get the blasting media out.
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