03-11-2023, 11:48 AM
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#31
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Portland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
Sand blasting is kinda harsh. Being this is aluminum and not steel. I look into a softer blasting medium like soda etc. Also. I didn't mean to plug up your thread with valve adjustmenting conversations. We just kinda went there...
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I'm not sure they really mean "sand" when they say sandblasting, but who knows. I called another shop that says they use StarBlast, but a quick google search suggests that there are different grades of that material. I'll call around some more to find someone who does media blasting.
No worries about side conversations, I always like learning something new!
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03-11-2023, 12:31 PM
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#32
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Mulmur, ON
Posts: 129
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Mulmur, ON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
I bead blasted mine but I also have access to a parts washer the flush them properly to get the blasting media out.
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I also used crushed glass, it's so gentle I hit the plastic electrical connector and it did no damage. These were bead blasted, washed, wiped with acetone, adhesion promoter, then clear.
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03-11-2023, 03:13 PM
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#33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew76
I also used crushed glass, it's so gentle I hit the plastic electrical connector and it did no damage. These were bead blasted, washed, wiped with acetone, adhesion promoter, then clear.
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That looks great, thanks for the tip! Can you elaborate on which adhesion promoter and clear you used?
I can't find a place that does media blasting, they all say sandblast. I'll keep looking.
In the meantime, I got the inside of the VCs pretty clean. Aren't chemicals great?
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03-12-2023, 09:26 AM
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#34
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Mulmur, ON
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Mulmur, ON
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It's been about 5 yrs since I did that work but I think it was just dupli color adhesion promoter, I used some off the shelf clear from home depot and it has started to yellow a bit now. If i was to do it all over again i would use the VHT high temp gloss clear for brake calipers. I used that on my rear drums after painting them black and it has held up great. Those valve covers look clean. I did my valve covers and intake pipe with the VHT wrinkle Black paint but obviously powder coating is superior, I had a set of FJ wheels and Tacoma wheels refinished and powder coated and they came out great.
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03-12-2023, 10:29 AM
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#35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew76
It's been about 5 yrs since I did that work but I think it was just dupli color adhesion promoter, I used some off the shelf clear from home depot and it has started to yellow a bit now. If i was to do it all over again i would use the VHT high temp gloss clear for brake calipers. I used that on my rear drums after painting them black and it has held up great. Those valve covers look clean. I did my valve covers and intake pipe with the VHT wrinkle Black paint but obviously powder coating is superior, I had a set of FJ wheels and Tacoma wheels refinished and powder coated and they came out great.
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Thanks for the details! I wonder if I should skip the whole powder coat route, and the associated concerns about residual media/sand particles, and just hit them with some good primer and engine enamel. It'll probably be the 95% solution, without the aggravation. I rattle canned the entire AOR front bumper after all, and am still quite happy with the results.
And if it doesn't last, I can always do the powder coating later (the plenums are certainly easy enough to remove).
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03-12-2023, 11:07 AM
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#36
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Mulmur, ON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiker Engineering
Thanks for the details! I wonder if I should skip the whole powder coat route, and the associated concerns about residual media/sand particles, and just hit them with some good primer and engine enamel. It'll probably be the 95% solution, without the aggravation. I rattle canned the entire AOR front bumper after all, and am still quite happy with the results.
And if it doesn't last, I can always do the powder coating later (the plenums are certainly easy enough to remove).
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No problem! You're right, it's nothing that can't be redone if you're not happy with it. Maybe try using a self etching primer.
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03-14-2023, 11:12 AM
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#37
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I decided to just paint the valve covers and plenums myself, too much aggravation dealing with powder coat.
I'm also arranging to drop off a bunch of screws and small metal parts for plating.
And also waiting for parts, here's the ever-growing list for the project (to be a fair, a few of them may be for my GS430):
Hopefully everything will come together at the same time (parts, plating, etc).
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03-14-2023, 01:46 PM
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#38
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
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If your heater valve and hoses are old as dirt now is the time to replace the hoses and clamps and valve.
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03-14-2023, 02:47 PM
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#39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
If your heater valve and hoses are old as dirt now is the time to replace the hoses and clamps and valve.
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Good suggestion, thanks! Fortunately I did all the water and heater hose related stuff earlier last year:
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03-14-2023, 05:00 PM
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#40
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Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Santa Cruz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiker Engineering
I got the inside of the VCs pretty clean. Aren't chemicals great?
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Clean! Anything special you used, or just normal degreaser?
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03-14-2023, 07:55 PM
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#41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiker Engineering
Good suggestion, thanks! Fortunately I did all the water and heater hose related stuff earlier last year:
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I did the same when I did my new engine. Found everything but the spring clamps for the heater core. I think they were not available.
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03-14-2023, 07:58 PM
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#42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chapolito
Clean! Anything special you used, or just normal degreaser?
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Thanks! I tried a number of cleaners and chemicals (Simple Green, Brakleen, lacquer thinner) but found that the most effective cleaner for the varnish build up was paint thinner (mineral spirits). I just kept brushing it on with a couple of brushes, and the varnish just dissolved.
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03-17-2023, 11:26 AM
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#43
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While I'm waiting for parts to arrive, is there any (good) reason to try to remove the intake manifold (not the plenum) and replace the gaskets?
I'm not losing any coolant, and I'm terrified of ending up with a nightmare like this if I attempt the project - Toyota Intake Manifold removal nightmare ! - YouTube
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03-17-2023, 03:32 PM
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#45
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If you pull the manifold replace the knock sensor cable.
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