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Old 03-24-2023, 12:19 PM #61
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Originally Posted by ToyotaBrah View Post
Great work, sir. I share your enthusiasm to clean up the engine bay. My northwest truck has developed some oxidizing of the aluminum bits from midwest salt.
I have been buying an array of zinc plated bolts when I go to the salvage yards to replace my oxidized ones. Have found them in other older makes too (Honda, Acura). Those valve covers look terrific. I will follow suit and powder coat mine as well.
Thank you, I sure hope it's going to be worth the effort!

I think I'm giving up on trying to "restore" aluminum, it's too much work and unless you get it blasted, it's always going to look "old". And I could not find anyone in LA to do media/glass bead blasting. So I'm just going to paint all the aluminum parts.

As for the bolts, I started out by trying to replace the most corroded ones with new ones (not Toyota), but I realized that they didn't look "OEM" enough, not to mention that I couldn't get enough fine tuning in terms of length, head/washer style, etc, to truly match the OEM look. That's why I ended up taking all the OEM bolts in for replating. I needed to replate many brackets anyway.
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Old 03-24-2023, 12:48 PM #62
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Originally Posted by WeakSauz View Post
Nice work, and it'll pay off.

Ask your Powdercoater how the VCs were prepped. Unfortunatley, if they were sand blasted, I would proceed with extreme caution. The sand really likes to hide in the nooks and crannies *underneath* the baffles, making it nearly impossible to clean out. Then when the engine heat cycles and the metal expands + oil hits it, the sand breaks loose and eats bearings.

Have seen it time and time again.

Just wanted to provide the heads up! A solution is to drill off the baffles, re-clean, and either tack weld back in place or tap in tiny button-head screws with red loc tite and/or JB weld.
Thanks for the note, and I did discuss it with the powder coater ahead of time. He said that the parts were clean enough to not need any blasting - just a clean with acetone, bakeout, then powder coat. I'm not 100% sure that's the ideal approach (i.e. without blasting of some sort), but I took his word for it. See no evil type of thing.

So bottom line is - I don't need to worry about trapped blast media (which was mentioned as a concern earlier in the thread).
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Old 03-24-2023, 06:36 PM #63
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I finally got around to checking the valve clearances, they all turned out to be in spec. Here's Timmy's handy dandy spreadsheet, all filled in:

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Old 03-24-2023, 07:21 PM #64
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Glad they are in spec.. Good news.

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Old 03-24-2023, 08:19 PM #65
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Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
Glad they are in spec.. Good news.
Yup, one less thing to worry about .
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Old 03-24-2023, 08:27 PM #66
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You pull the camshafts out. Or just check with the camshafts in.

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Old 03-24-2023, 08:31 PM #67
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Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
You pull the camshafts out. Or just check with the camshafts in.
I checked with the cams in place, using angled/bent feeler gauges. Straight by the FSM or Timmy's video.
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Old 03-25-2023, 06:32 PM #68
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Originally Posted by Spiker Engineering View Post
I checked with the cams in place, using angled/bent feeler gauges. Straight by the FSM or Timmy's video.
Alright, I have to do my one engine soon. Its at 290K. So i am suspecting that i am not as lucky as you were..

I get the tools before i even pull the valve covers. :-)
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Old 03-26-2023, 02:07 PM #69
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A bit of a milestone today - I (think) I tore down as much of the engine bay as I plan to do for this project. So now it's just a matter of cleaning, painting, waiting for parts to arrive from Japan and the plating shop, and bolting it all back together.

All down hill from here .

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Old 03-26-2023, 07:28 PM #70
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A bit of a milestone today - I (think) I tore down as much of the engine bay as I plan to do for this project. So now it's just a matter of cleaning, painting, waiting for parts to arrive from Japan and the plating shop, and bolting it all back together.



All down hill from here .



Top end looks clean my man. How many miles do you have on your rig?

I haven't had my valve covers off since around 200K. Currently at 324K. I'd be curious to see mine now.

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Old 03-26-2023, 09:19 PM #71
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Strut clearance

Hi,

Just had a question about the hood struts. Will the increase in height of the hood after installation clear if I have some ditch lights installed? (Specifically Rago Fabrication bracket and Baja S2s)
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Old 03-27-2023, 08:37 AM #72
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Originally Posted by JoeT4R View Post
Top end looks clean my man. How many miles do you have on your rig?

I haven't had my valve covers off since around 200K. Currently at 324K. I'd be curious to see mine now.
Mine's still a baby at 211K .
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Old 03-27-2023, 08:46 AM #73
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Just had a question about the hood struts. Will the increase in height of the hood after installation clear if I have some ditch lights installed? (Specifically Rago Fabrication bracket and Baja S2s)
You can set the hood open position to any height between stock and +8".

So in your case, you'd set it to just below where there might be contact with the ditch lights. Then that'll be the height to which the hood will open every time.
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Old 03-28-2023, 10:42 AM #74
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Making some progress refinishing the old corroded and rusted parts.

Here is the cruise control actuator (I decided to skip trying to clean up the aluminum body, and just painted it with DTM satin black):



The brake booster had some rust on it, but the more I cleaned off, the more rust I found, so I ended up sanding it all to bare metal, and painting with DTM satin black:



The last piece to be painted, the main electrical harness holddown, was fun because I had to paint it without taking it out of the engine compartment. So I wrapped plastic all around the engine bay, leaving just the harness holddown exposed - I felt like a surgeon doing open heart surgery:





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Old 03-28-2023, 10:45 AM #75
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Here's the throttle body before and after painting with engine enamel satin black:



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