Last year, I redid my brakes with new hardware and new fluid, now my brakes feel horrible; no power, very soft pedal, unsafe feeling. The fluid level is fine and the brakes have no other issues like noise or pulling.

Another thing, last year, I replaced my head gasket as it was degrading and causing oil to disappear/leak and burn. I checked my oil recently and was low about a quart.

edit for clarity: both of the “last years” were about exactly 1 year ago.

In my experience soft pedal has been caused by air in the lines somewhere, degraded rubber brake hoses, and improperly adjusted rear brakes. Most of the time it’s rear brakes.

Also in my experience, burning oil is usually valve seals or piston rings. It’s very rarely been a bad head gasket causing oil consumption. Some oil consumption is normal so it depends on how many miles you are going vs how much oil you are using.

I’ll check that out for the brakes, thanks. HG was replaced due to it leaking. After that was replaced, I wasn’t losing any oil for a couple months.

Oh, I have dealt with quite a few issues, over the 15 years I have owned mine. The "planned obsolescence" or "I hate it when accountants tell engineers what to do" driveshaft u-joints, the leaking axle seal, the starter contacts, the flaky digital clock, the flaky fuel gauge, and the biggest one was when all symptoms very much appeared to be a blown head gasket, when all it really was was one failed injector. Very, very glad I did not replace my head gasket, only to find that the major problem still persisted.

And don't get me started on the major PITA messy and difficult oil draining procedure. Out of all of the vehicles I have ever owned over the last 40 years, this vehicle is the biggest PITA with which to change the oil. One should NOT have to remove a heavy pan in order to change the oil. NOTHING, besides a filler cap, drain plug and oil filter should ever have to be removed in order to do very routine maintenance such as an oil change.

But with all of that being said, I love mine dearly. We have been through a lot in the last 15 years. There is no other vehicle out there, where I could buy it for $9k with 106k on it, drive it for 15 years until it has 213k on it, then have it still be worth about $5k. This vehicle hauls canoes and kayaks on the roof, a mountain bike on the back, my dogs inside, pulls my trailer, does incredibly well offroad for a 2WD, and I can sleep diagonally in the back, when the rear seats are down. There is no other vehicle out there that can give me a value like that. And the worst part is, when this vehicle dies (head gasket will likely blow in the next few years), then it is irreplaceable. There is no other vehicle out there that can do what this vehicle does at a price like what I paid, and that fairy tale of vehicle value that came along with it can never be repeated. It was once-in-a-lifetime good fortune, plain and simple. Luck.

Regarding the oil consumption.
How many miles have you gone in the "last year" since the last oil change?
1 quart would be bad in 500 miles but not 3000-5000.

What 'new hardware' was replaced? Sounds like air in the lines, like others have mentioned.

Also, rarely does a bad head gasket lead to oil burning. That is more often rings or valve seals (neither of which is all that common on a 5vz, assuming you have the V6?).

-Charlie

????

I know I don't pull mine skid off. I just reach in the driver side spin the filter off and pull the plug. Once drained, I put the plug and new filter on. Fill back up.

Most not like removing the front skid plate to change oil....

I know a pile of other vehicles that are worse than this for changing oil.

I am really surprised nobody made a screw on extender to catch this oil and bring it down a tube. Those would be sweet.

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Oh OK - he said 'pan' I was picturing someone dropping the oil pan - LOL. I haven't had stock skids for a while but don't they have a drain hole? My aftermarket skids do and I just reach in and flip the Fumoto valve after directing the hose into the catch container.

Plug has a drain hole. Oil filter will leak into the skid plate. Unless the front one is removed.. :]

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Somehow air has come into the lines. Try bleeding the brakes, paying attention to which line has air in it. Then at least you know if it happens again there's an issue with that specific line/caliper/drum.

How are you bleeding your brakes?

If you are pumping them to build pressure first try this instead:

Open bleeder-depress brake pedal to the floor-close bleeder-release brake pedal.


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Not 100% but definitely to closer to 3000 than 500. I did have a 1000mi, 15 hour non stop drive in between then and now though.

The rotors and pads.

So with air getting into the lines well after replacing, what would that mean?

The system is harder to bleed because of the abs. Air can get it in there and harder to get it out because of its location and harder to activate when bleeding.

This is why alot of folks will bleed. Take the rig down a dirt road a few times to activate the abs then bleed it again.

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