Yes I can understand that. It's always sweating it until you hear it run and listen for a min or so..

My uncle always Said get that stp think stuff. Coat the cam bearings and lubes good so when it fires up it's not a dry start.

I really think as long as you coat everything with oil good. It will be fine.

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Anyone else think Al from Yota1 sounded like Jeff Bridges lol.

I heard him say "detonation cracks" and the subject vehicle has a supercharger. Does it also have a 7th injector, piggyback ECU for timing control, or other supporting modifications? I'm curious what was causing the detonation that cracked the heads.

I was wondering, too, if the super charger had any effect on the life of those heads. Yota1 probably would have a working theory being as many heads as they have seen...

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Very Thorough Series Timmy Did

Currently doing this job with the help of this video.

Thank you!

You're welcome. I hope it goes smooth for you.

I have a 96 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 5VZE engine RWD and the HG blew out on it. So I bought a used engine that was sitting for 2 years. Before installing the used engine I put a new water pump, timing belt assembly, O rings, hoses, spark plugs, wires, coils, serviced the injectors, and even put a new radiator and rear axles. No more than 10 days go by and the negative ground pins in the ECM that controls the injectors burnt out so I put a new ECM. Here I am 9 days later and after all the new parts and engine swap the damn HG blew out again. I totally at a loss, depressed, and pissed off all at once. Can you help me make it make sense as to how the head gasket can blow out on 2 different engines, in less than 6 months with no indicator lights warning me of a malfunction. My truck never overheated to cause a hg blow out. I kept up on the servicing scheduled maintenance. Please help me before I overreact and smash my mechanic.

I know buying a used engine has risks which is why I put all the new parts before installing. But I had 2 top knotch guys give the used engine a thorough inspection prior to installing and both gave me the thumbs up. I apologize if this isn't where I should post this. But I don't know what I'm doing

There's too many variables for me to give you an answer. I wasn't looking over the shoulder of the mechanic doing the job. A lot can go wrong if the mechanic doesn't know what they are doing, they do sloppy work, or they use inferior parts, like the head gasket. If they used an MLS (Multi-layer steel) gaskets, they checked the block surface carefully to make sure it met the minimum spec for flatness, they inspected the heads for cracks and pressure tested them, and they installed the head properly with new head bolts, you shouldn't be having a problem.

No I did a full engine swap after the first blown HG and used nothing but OEM parts to replace since the engine I bought was used. And less than ten days into having the replacement engine in the HG blew out on the new engine so I'm thinking if there's a faulty component with the 3rd gen t4r and it's causing the HG to malfunction

Early 5VZ's had head gasket issues (including recalls where Toyota replaced head gaskets). Lack of maintenance (coolant service) also will ruin head gaskets, especially over 25+ years. Later engines (say '98+ or so) with decent maintenance histories have near perfect head gaskets - but nothing is bullet proof.

-Charlie

I’ve done three sets of heads over the years and used YotaShop’s head replacement kit for all of them.

One important thing I learned over the years of wrenching is running a tap through the head bolt threads in the block to ensure the torque is correct.

The answer is the engine you got was a piece of crap. This is the risk you take buying used, even JDM that people profess is a great way to go. Any used engine you have no idea of its history is a crap shoot. The head gasket didn't blow 10 days after the install, the engine was already f*cked when you installed it.

New member here. Wont let me post so i had to reapond to this thread...Great site and have learned much and appreciate all of the information here. I have a very unique situation going on. 2002 T4R - 5vz - runs great, but losing coolant from reservoir. Has new radiator, water pump, thermostat, rad cap, oil cooler hoses, valve cover gasket, hoses, belts. No visible leaks anywhere. Losing about a qt per 50 miles. Cooling system pressure test - holds 15lbs for 30 mins no drop. Cold compression across all cylinders 210lbs+ except cly 5 at about 170. Leakdown test on cyl 5 is horrid. Losing about 75% through cyl 1 & 2 with cyl 5 at TDC. Very slight loss through intake. Retested multiple times to make sure #5 was on compression stroke. Any ideas? Can't put the coolant loss together with these results.

Do a leak down test on Cylinder #5 again, but this time do it in conjunction with your cooling system pressure tester holding pressure on the cooling system. When you pressurize the cylinder, if the cooling system pressure tester gauge rises, you either have a cracked head or a head gasket issue. You can also leave pressure on the cooling system for longer than 30 minutes. Leave it overnight and use a borescope to look into cylinder 5 to see if coolant has pooled on top of the piston. I'm suspecting you have a cracked head. It's fairly common on these engine. Coolant doesn't just disappear like you're experiencing. if you haven't detected a leak anywhere, your engine has to be consuming it. Even if the leak was in the valley between the heads, the level would eventually spill out the backside of the engine and leave a puddle under your rig.

This video will show you exactly what I'm talking about. Good luck!

Will give this a shot. Thank you!