Took me 2 hrs start to finish. First time doing these. The ones in the picture have 320,000 miles on them.

Black bolts were used on both the old and the new ones I put in.

How would I tell if these were even bad? When I took everything apart everything still looked very solid.. Shrug?

You have to check them for play in the vehicle. You can not feel it. You have to use a micrometer to measure it. I believe it's > .05mm is the replacement threshold.

Timmy has a video if you want to see how that procedure is done. At over 300k they need replaced. especially if oversized tires, lifts, and off roading is occurring.

Consensus is 100k if road use. 30k if off-roading accuring. Seems to be the forum members' thoughts on replacement intervals.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

Dang. I’m 3 times over the road limit then. Glad I got them done. A little less off the mind now.

This is one of those situations where you just get the job done and don't worry about if they were out of spec per the FSM or whatever guidance from Toyota themselves or the internet's mutual consent etc.

My own example > Just paid my mechanic to do the water pump+timing belt kit (15 piece Aircabinman on eBay) - He said my timing belt wasn't fraying or cracked (old one), and WP wasn't severely leaking but just had a tiny bit of Toyota red on it. I got over 150k miles out of the last TB+WP, so I'm happy to have the peace of mind considering the horrible result of a failed WP (overheated engine) especially in this hot summer weather.

Be happy you got 300k out of the old LBJ set and don't think about too many "what if" scenarios.

You did the right replacement and got more life out of them than is commonly expected, so good job on that.

The ones that I have replaced are still solid and had no play, yet I replaced them to avoid failure.

I was getting very nervous after hearing about this on how many miles my originals had on them. Never would I have thought this was a weak point. Glad I follow this board and appreciate all the advice and input from you guys/gals on here. Great group of people. Thank you.

Now you've just reminded me of the my own timing belt/wp ...

The v6 5vz fe is a non interference engine. You get to it when you can.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

15 pcs Aircabinman TB kit is legit on my 3rd kit. Broke TB can cause damage to lower cover crank sensor leave you broke down in the hood, on side of interstate where idjits use E-lane for passing.

If you still have old BJ's rotate stud in housing, if you can rotate with bare fingers you got your money's worth,
new ones you'll need a punch or nail in cotter pin hole to rotate.
If stud can be pushed n pulled in housing with noticable movement between ball n housing your past .5mm wear limit.

Sort of yes, sort of no. If your logic is that you replace TB/WP kit when the non-interference engine breaks down on the side of the road - TRUE, your valve-train is still in-tact after TB failure, but guess what - your water pump might go bad due to negligence and now your entire engine would be ****ed by overheating in the name of saving a few dollars going way way way past the 100k recommended interval.

I guess we all gamble with our rigs in way or another, that's just part of owning any vehicle really.

I don't push mine too far. I own 7 or these with 2 being parts mobiles
... tb water pumps kits are good every 100k or so. The radiators are 10 year replacement except manuals...

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

Just looked at records and last time TB/WP was done was about 80k miles ago so I'm good for a bit. Thanks for all the assistance you guys/gals.