07-05-2023, 10:13 PM
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#1
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2Low (2WD Low Range) Multimode T-Case
1999 Limited with the j-shift shift pattern transfer case with a push button on the shifter for 4Hi unlocked.
Trying to figure out how to put the transfer case into Low, but also stay in 2wd, aka 2-Low. Trying to backup my 4,000lbs boat + trailer up my steep driveway is such a pain in 2Hi. 4Low is great when I’m backing up straight, but due to where I’m parking the boat, it involves a lot of turning the wheel, which binds things up in 4Low.
I’ve searched across this forum, and several others, and it gets confusing with all the variations of t-case options through the years. Some threads say disconnecting a blue plug on the driver side t-case achieves 2Low, while others say it’s a blue plug on the passenger side. I’ve tried disconnecting both, and neither gave me 2Low when I put the t-case into low range.
I’m assuming then that I must need to interrupt one of the wires in the 4wd ECU behind the glove box, but which one? Any help would be appreciated.
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Turbocharged GTX3071 - URD AFR Sensor Calibrator - DW255 fuel pump - 2JZ Supra 315cc “teal top” fuel injectors - Rear Elocker Retrofit w/ 4.30 gears - 2wd Low (2Lo) On Demand - 231mm Tundra Brake Upgrade - Hayden 699 Transmission Cooler - Monitoring ATF Temps w/ My iPhone - DIY Projector Headlight Retrofit - Backup Camera Retrofit - Cooper Discoverer AT3 - OME 906 Coils & Rancho 9000XL Shocks (Rear)
2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
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07-05-2023, 10:21 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Sep 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robb235
1999 Limited with the j-shift shift pattern transfer case with a push button on the shifter for 4Hi unlocked.
Trying to figure out how to put the transfer case into Low, but also stay in 2wd, aka 2-Low. Trying to backup my 4,000lbs boat + trailer up my steep driveway is such a pain in 2Hi. 4Low is great when I’m backing up straight, but due to where I’m parking the boat, it involves a lot of turning the wheel, which binds things up in 4Low.
I’ve searched across this forum, and several others, and it gets confusing with all the variations of t-case options through the years. Some threads say disconnecting a blue plug on the driver side t-case achieves 2Low, while others say it’s a blue plug on the passenger side. I’ve tried disconnecting both, and neither gave me 2Low when I put the t-case into low range.
I’m assuming then that I must need to interrupt one of the wires in the 4wd ECU behind the glove box, but which one? Any help would be appreciated.
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I could be totally wrong here but I don’t think you can achieve 2lo without double/triple shifters unless you do some crazy custom one off setup. Northwestfab’s install instructions of their dual case setup has a guide on how to get a standard j shift tcase into 2lo (should be similar to a multi mode tcase but not 100% sure). Remove tcase, split the case open, remove shift rails, this little metal pill shaped thing pops out that prevents the shifters from shifting into 2lo, grind a tiny nib off one of the shift rails, put it all back together.
Edit: welp here’s the first one that came up on a quick google
Twin-stick - Front Range Off-Road Fabrication
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07-05-2023, 10:57 PM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4topher
I could be totally wrong here but I don’t think you can achieve 2lo without double/triple shifters unless you do some crazy custom one off setup. Northwestfab’s install instructions of their dual case setup has a guide on how to get a standard j shift tcase into 2lo (should be similar to a multi mode tcase but not 100% sure). Remove tcase, split the case open, remove shift rails, this little metal pill shaped thing pops out that prevents the shifters from shifting into 2lo, grind a tiny nib off one of the shift rails, put it all back together.
Edit: welp here’s the first one that came up on a quick google
Twin-stick - Front Range Off-Road Fabrication
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I’m pretty sure you can modify the electronics somehow to achieve 2Low. Sort of how like the grey wire mod allows for locking the rear differential in other than just 4Low. It fools the 4wd ECU into doing what you want it to do. But due to all the different variations of t-cases that came in the 3rd gen throughout the years, I think the methods to acquire 2Low are all different (I think).
For example, I tried this method, but it didn’t work for me:
Low Range Two Wheel Drive Mod - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Turbocharged GTX3071 - URD AFR Sensor Calibrator - DW255 fuel pump - 2JZ Supra 315cc “teal top” fuel injectors - Rear Elocker Retrofit w/ 4.30 gears - 2wd Low (2Lo) On Demand - 231mm Tundra Brake Upgrade - Hayden 699 Transmission Cooler - Monitoring ATF Temps w/ My iPhone - DIY Projector Headlight Retrofit - Backup Camera Retrofit - Cooper Discoverer AT3 - OME 906 Coils & Rancho 9000XL Shocks (Rear)
2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
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07-05-2023, 11:25 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robb235
I’m pretty sure you can modify the electronics somehow to achieve 2Low. Sort of how like the grey wire mod allows for locking the rear differential in other than just 4Low. It fools the 4wd ECU into doing what you want it to do. But due to all the different variations of t-cases that came in the 3rd gen throughout the years, I think the methods to acquire 2Low are all different (I think).
For example, I tried this method, but it didn’t work for me:
Low Range Two Wheel Drive Mod - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum
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Ahh you’re basically trying to make it so when you shift into 4wd on the tcase the front diff ADD doesn’t actuate. You 100% verified you were in 4wd with the front tires spinning? Your front drive shaft will still spin but your front cvs shouldn’t if you put your truck on jackstands.
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07-06-2023, 12:34 AM
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#5
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I might be wrong but couldn't you achieve this by using manual hubs and leaving them unlocked in 4 low? Another win for manual hubs.
I think you could intentionally unplug the vacuum tube responsible for engaging the autolocking hubs on the front and while the front drive shaft would still spin, it would be disengaged from the front wheels so no binding. I could be very wrong, but intentionally sabotaging should be relatively easy way of getting 2 low.
I had this happen on my J-shifter and it behaved like a 2wd in 4wd even with a functioning TC. But I never tried low range, but given it is relying on mechanical linkages I would of had 2 low.
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Last edited by Pyral; 07-06-2023 at 12:43 AM.
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07-06-2023, 01:31 AM
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#6
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^that would work or intercept the signal to that vacuum switch with a rocker switch, perhaps at a more convenient location like the 4WD ECU to a dash rocker switch, the 99 is complex so you would still have a flashing 4wd indicator telling you something isn't right until all systems agree with inputs.
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Last edited by Malcolm99; 07-06-2023 at 01:34 AM.
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07-06-2023, 06:04 AM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4topher
Ahh you’re basically trying to make it so when you shift into 4wd on the tcase the front diff ADD doesn’t actuate. You 100% verified you were in 4wd with the front tires spinning? Your front drive shaft will still spin but your front cvs shouldn’t if you put your truck on jackstands.
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The first clue I was in 4wd was the 4wd indicator lights lit up with no blinking error. The second clue was the bucking and binding I was getting with the wheels turned on my driveway. Was definitely in 4wd when t-case selector was in 4Low lol.
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Turbocharged GTX3071 - URD AFR Sensor Calibrator - DW255 fuel pump - 2JZ Supra 315cc “teal top” fuel injectors - Rear Elocker Retrofit w/ 4.30 gears - 2wd Low (2Lo) On Demand - 231mm Tundra Brake Upgrade - Hayden 699 Transmission Cooler - Monitoring ATF Temps w/ My iPhone - DIY Projector Headlight Retrofit - Backup Camera Retrofit - Cooper Discoverer AT3 - OME 906 Coils & Rancho 9000XL Shocks (Rear)
2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
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07-06-2023, 12:45 PM
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#8
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I’m not sure if this is applicable but when I did the blue/gray wire mod to be able to use the rear locker on the fly, I originally grounded the wrong wire and my 4runner acted like it was in 4Lo. It held in gear super long, seemed extra torquey and it wouldn’t shift into overdrive. I believe if you ground the blue wire coming from the “harness side” it will trick the ecu into thinking you are in 4Lo, you could put this on a grounded switch and have it on the fly in theory. Look up some of the threads on this and you should see what I’m talking about.
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07-06-2023, 01:55 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robb235
1999 Limited with the j-shift shift pattern transfer case with a push button on the shifter for 4Hi unlocked.
Trying to figure out how to put the transfer case into Low, but also stay in 2wd, aka 2-Low. Trying to backup my 4,000lbs boat + trailer up my steep driveway is such a pain in 2Hi. 4Low is great when I’m backing up straight, but due to where I’m parking the boat, it involves a lot of turning the wheel, which binds things up in 4Low.
I’ve searched across this forum, and several others, and it gets confusing with all the variations of t-case options through the years. Some threads say disconnecting a blue plug on the driver side t-case achieves 2Low, while others say it’s a blue plug on the passenger side. I’ve tried disconnecting both, and neither gave me 2Low when I put the t-case into low range.
I’m assuming then that I must need to interrupt one of the wires in the 4wd ECU behind the glove box, but which one? Any help would be appreciated.
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Low Range Two Wheel Drive Mod
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07-06-2023, 04:32 PM
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#10
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It is very easy to do this with the J-shift case...
With the Multimode case (and 4WD computer) it will be unhappy.
To check if it will work, unplug the two ADD VSVs while still in 2WD, then shift into 4LO. You should have some flashing lights, but 2LO... If you are already in 4WD and unplug the VSVs, you'll probably stay in 4WD.
If that works, then we can figure out the switch setup.
-Charlie
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07-06-2023, 04:50 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
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Did not work for me. See Post #3 above.
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Turbocharged GTX3071 - URD AFR Sensor Calibrator - DW255 fuel pump - 2JZ Supra 315cc “teal top” fuel injectors - Rear Elocker Retrofit w/ 4.30 gears - 2wd Low (2Lo) On Demand - 231mm Tundra Brake Upgrade - Hayden 699 Transmission Cooler - Monitoring ATF Temps w/ My iPhone - DIY Projector Headlight Retrofit - Backup Camera Retrofit - Cooper Discoverer AT3 - OME 906 Coils & Rancho 9000XL Shocks (Rear)
2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
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07-06-2023, 04:59 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
It is very easy to do this with the J-shift case...
With the Multimode case (and 4WD computer) it will be unhappy.
To check if it will work, unplug the two ADD VSVs while still in 2WD, then shift into 4LO. You should have some flashing lights, but 2LO... If you are already in 4WD and unplug the VSVs, you'll probably stay in 4WD.
If that works, then we can figure out the switch setup.
-Charlie
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After studying the wiring diagram for a while, I'm thinking what you suggested might work, granted I do believe it will piss off the 4wd computer like you mentioned.
The other thing I'm thinking is while in H2, simply pulling the 20A 4WD fuse. That should kill the 4wd computer completely, and then I think I should be able to put the t-case into 4Low, but with the 4wd ECU being dead, it won't be able to send any signals to the VSV, so I should stay in 2wd and still have the low range gear reduction that I'm looking for. And with 4wd ECU being dead, shouldn't get any blinking 4wd error lights either. Will try tonight when I get home.
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Turbocharged GTX3071 - URD AFR Sensor Calibrator - DW255 fuel pump - 2JZ Supra 315cc “teal top” fuel injectors - Rear Elocker Retrofit w/ 4.30 gears - 2wd Low (2Lo) On Demand - 231mm Tundra Brake Upgrade - Hayden 699 Transmission Cooler - Monitoring ATF Temps w/ My iPhone - DIY Projector Headlight Retrofit - Backup Camera Retrofit - Cooper Discoverer AT3 - OME 906 Coils & Rancho 9000XL Shocks (Rear)
2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
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07-06-2023, 09:45 PM
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#13
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2Low (2WD Low Range) Multimode T-Case
And it worked. So with it in 2wd, pull the 20A fuse in the cabin for the 4wd. Then shift t-case lever to 4Low, and just like that you’re in 2Low and no blinking lights on the 4wd indicator.
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Turbocharged GTX3071 - URD AFR Sensor Calibrator - DW255 fuel pump - 2JZ Supra 315cc “teal top” fuel injectors - Rear Elocker Retrofit w/ 4.30 gears - 2wd Low (2Lo) On Demand - 231mm Tundra Brake Upgrade - Hayden 699 Transmission Cooler - Monitoring ATF Temps w/ My iPhone - DIY Projector Headlight Retrofit - Backup Camera Retrofit - Cooper Discoverer AT3 - OME 906 Coils & Rancho 9000XL Shocks (Rear)
2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
Last edited by Robb235; 07-06-2023 at 09:59 PM.
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07-29-2023, 09:45 PM
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#14
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I’ve used 2Low twice now to back my boat up my driveway and snake it around the side of my house, and it’s a game changer. Really makes the whole process so much easier having the t-case in low range, but not having it in 4wd.
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 - Turbocharged GTX3071 - URD AFR Sensor Calibrator - DW255 fuel pump - 2JZ Supra 315cc “teal top” fuel injectors - Rear Elocker Retrofit w/ 4.30 gears - 2wd Low (2Lo) On Demand - 231mm Tundra Brake Upgrade - Hayden 699 Transmission Cooler - Monitoring ATF Temps w/ My iPhone - DIY Projector Headlight Retrofit - Backup Camera Retrofit - Cooper Discoverer AT3 - OME 906 Coils & Rancho 9000XL Shocks (Rear)
2000 Yamaha XR1800 Jet Boat - MR1 4-Stroke Engine Swap
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07-30-2023, 07:19 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robb235
I’ve used 2Low twice now to back my boat up my driveway and snake it around the side of my house, and it’s a game changer. Really makes the whole process so much easier having the t-case in low range, but not having it in 4wd.
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Sounds like it's time to put that fuse on a toggle switch.
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