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Old 07-14-2023, 06:29 PM #1
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Cruise control not working after replacing clutch master cylinder

I tried using my cruise control for the first time since I replaced my clutch master cylinder. While the cruise light illuminated, the speed was not maintained even though I know it should of.

The obvious cause is me doing my clutch master cylinder and not putting something back. I tried pulling both pedals up with my toes just in case switches weren't pressed, that didn't solve my problem.

To access the clutch master cylinder I had to remove the charcoal canister and I disconnected all but 1 of the vacuum hoses that feeds into that box. I also unplugged some connectors in that area, but I'm fairly certain their plugged back in. Is the cruise control system reliant on any vacuum tubes in that area?

I also remember unplugging some switches near the pedals for some reason (why I did this I don't know), but my car shouldn't start if those switches aren't depressed, right?
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Old 07-14-2023, 08:01 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyral View Post
I tried using my cruise control for the first time since I replaced my clutch master cylinder. While the cruise light illuminated, the speed was not maintained even though I know it should of.

The obvious cause is me doing my clutch master cylinder and not putting something back. I tried pulling both pedals up with my toes just in case switches weren't pressed, that didn't solve my problem.

To access the clutch master cylinder I had to remove the charcoal canister and I disconnected all but 1 of the vacuum hoses that feeds into that box. I also unplugged some connectors in that area, but I'm fairly certain their plugged back in. Is the cruise control system reliant on any vacuum tubes in that area?

I also remember unplugging some switches near the pedals for some reason (why I did this I don't know), but my car shouldn't start if those switches aren't depressed, right?
Here is the Electrical Wiring Diagram. Mostly its the 2 switches on the brake and the clutch pedal that have to make contact to work. If you adjusted the clutch pedal that switch may not be making. I think they are continuity to work properly so if either pedal is pressed the circuit is open shutting off the Cruise Control. :-)
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File Type: pdf CruseControl_3RZ_98.pdf (85.4 KB, 192 views)
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Old 07-14-2023, 08:14 PM #3
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Double check to make sure your clutch safety start switch didn't go out of adjustment.
First, confirm the switch is still plugged in. If you can start the 4r with the clutch pushed in, Im sure the switch is plugged in.

If need be, the switch is easy to adjust. The switch is threaded. Loosen lock nut and spin the switch out until the switch doesn't have continuity with the clutch pedal in the up resting position.
Having a multi meter would make it easier to adjust.
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Old 07-14-2023, 09:08 PM #4
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I just had a brake switch go out on me. It was intermitent at first then stopped working. Tested with volt meter and was bad. Few weeks ago I had played in that area to install a brake controller.

Shop manual tells out to test the brake switch, must also talk about the clutch switch.

I'd begin with that at first, easiest.

Also, does the 'cruise' tell tale light up in the dash? If not, clockspring
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Old 07-14-2023, 09:41 PM #5
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I think I might of made some progress. I looked under at the pedal and saw this.

The button does not seem to be depressed all that much. If someone could take a photo of theirs as a reference, I would appreciate it.

However I cant pull up the pedal any further. Should I adjust the clutch master cylinder to let it out more? I hope this doesn't mean I've been riding my clutch for 500 miles. I adjusted it to match it the way my old one was exactly, I counted the threads.

Also you see the blue tape next to that silver cylinder? That's there to keep it from squeaking as it rubs against the clutch pedal mount. How do I adjust the pedal side to side so that thing no longer scrapes?
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Last edited by Pyral; 07-15-2023 at 07:39 PM. Reason: Stabilized photo source
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Old 07-14-2023, 11:20 PM #6
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That must be the cruise control clutch switch from the schematic. Sorry, I didn't take a picture but that button is definitely depressed on mine. Since it was working before you changed the master, I'd adjust the pedal just enough to depress the button in. The old and new master may have had a different number of threads. I don't think there is side to side adjustment of the pedal without disassembly and doing a custom jobber. Something must be worn out or bent on the clutch pedal assembly to cause the rubbing. Is that a new assembly? It looks like a Toyota parts sticker on the side.
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Old 07-15-2023, 07:47 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky 97Runner View Post
That must be the cruise control clutch switch from the schematic. Sorry, I didn't take a picture but that button is definitely depressed on mine. Since it was working before you changed the master, I'd adjust the pedal just enough to depress the button in. The old and new master may have had a different number of threads. I don't think there is side to side adjustment of the pedal without disassembly and doing a custom jobber. Something must be worn out or bent on the clutch pedal assembly to cause the rubbing. Is that a new assembly? It looks like a Toyota parts sticker on the side.
I assume it's a Toyota part, to be honest I didn't notice the sticker. I wonder if that's original or not.

That part might of been replaced when I first bought the car. I had a worn clutch spring and I remember the mechanic saying something about the spring wearing through parts that it shouldn't of worn.

But I really have no idea.
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Old 07-15-2023, 08:38 AM #8
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I’m about to test this if this button is the cause. I cut the end of a crayon off and glued it to the pad that pushes the button, now its completely pressed. If this temporary setup allows cruise control to work, I’ll know it’s the button.

If it is the button that is the issue should I adjust the button so that it’s closer, or should I adjust the clutch pedal screw so it goes back further?
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Old 07-15-2023, 01:15 PM #9
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Quote:
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I had a worn clutch spring and I remember the mechanic saying something about the spring wearing through parts that it shouldn't of worn.
This is a pretty common problem. It looks like the Toyota spring was replaced with a linear spring which is a common fix. Check out this thread. Replacing the bushings might help your squeaking sound.
Clutch pedal spring delete/mod
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Old 07-15-2023, 03:33 PM #10
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I actually had someone adjust that pedal and put an extra spring in a 1997 to hide a warn out clutch. The cruise control wouldn't work. So, in an upon investigation, I found the switch was open. Thus wjh the cruise control wouldn't work....

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Old 07-15-2023, 06:22 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky 97Runner View Post
This is a pretty common problem. It looks like the Toyota spring was replaced with a linear spring which is a common fix. Check out this thread. Replacing the bushings might help your squeaking sound.
Clutch pedal spring delete/mod
I did that spring mod. When I bought the car in 2020 it had a really worn out spring, no longer returned and squeaked like hell. I had a mechanic replace it, and he mentioned that the spring had worn the hole into an oval. That's probably why the part looks new.

The new spring didn't last long, when the clutch pedal started squeaking again, I replaced it with a linear spring not realizing it wasn't my problem. After it kept squeaking I realized that something was rubbing against the clutch bracket (that I was unaware had been replaced by the mechanic). So I put that blue tape that you see, which worked okay for 2 years

Now I replaced the clutch master cylinder I realized that the metal cylinder at the end of it had been the thing rubbing. So I can confidently say it's not the spring. Apart from the pedal itself, I've replaced every component in the equation.
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Old 07-15-2023, 06:26 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
I actually had someone adjust that pedal and put an extra spring in a 1997 to hide a warn out clutch. The cruise control wouldn't work. So, in an upon investigation, I found the switch was open. Thus wjh the cruise control wouldn't work....

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

That was my guess so I glued a slice of crayon on the plunger. With the crayon pushing the button completely in, the cruise control has been restored.

The clutch pedal needs to be adjusted in every direction. It scrapes the clutch bracket, which the old master cylinder did too, and I'm not leaving the crayon bodge job even if it did restore my cruise control.
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Old 07-15-2023, 09:05 PM #13
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Good deal at least you know where the exactly is now.. :-)
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Old 07-17-2023, 03:34 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiLife View Post
Double check to make sure your clutch safety start switch didn't go out of adjustment.
First, confirm the switch is still plugged in. If you can start the 4r with the clutch pushed in, Im sure the switch is plugged in.

If need be, the switch is easy to adjust. The switch is threaded. Loosen lock nut and spin the switch out until the switch doesn't have continuity with the clutch pedal in the up resting position.
Having a multi meter would make it easier to adjust.
The clutch start switch is located at the bottom of the clutch pedal throw and the cruise control clutch cancel switch is located at the top of the clutch throw. Two different switch locations and functions.
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