Hi!

It is time for battery replacement on my 98 4runner V6.
What is the biggest battery capacity wise that we can fit under the hood? I will be running my 12v fridge freezer from it as well as starting my 4runner.


Thanks.

My fridge (Dometic) has 3 different battery protection settings, and if you're running it off your only battery, I'd have it on 'high', probably be OK overnight.

I have a dual battery setup in mine, though, tiny Braille start/car battery, and a yellowtop 'house' battery. The yellowtop is a combo deep cycle/start battery, advertised as 48 aH capacity. Running on 'low' protection, mine would run the Dometic for a couple of days before the Dometic would shut off to prevent totally draining and damaging the battery.

I do have something pretty awesome I can offer you. A lithium ion battery that's 1800 cranking amps. A ton of reserve time, built in jump start features and only weights 14 lbs. Call/text me at 717-319-2100 and I'll work a deal for the first few that want to try one.

Hey.
I'm in Canada. What you got?
Pictures, price, specs.

Show me you setup please.
My Chinese knockoff 75l dual camera fridge also has 3 protection settings. Shuts down with protection almost immediately when car is not running, while running barely works🤦, and if I put it in emergency override mode while engine is running works fine for a few minutes and than shuts down with low battery warning.
Tested the battery with battery tester and it shows as week battery, so I bet is is time for replacement.
I think I better do dual battery set up, but don't have time and long weekend is coming up.

The protection mode works by sensing the voltage, it's possible you need larger wiring between the battery and the fridge? Might try checking voltage at the plug/fridge when the fridge is running, and then checking it at the battery, see if resistance is dropping it enough to spook the fridge.

The stock 12V outlets have very small wires leading to them, when I put my fridge in I got a socket with 12 gauge wiring and wired it directly to the house battery: Amazon.com
(with a circuit breaker up by the battery: Amazon.com )

Here's a pic of my atypical dual battery setup:


I replaced the stock battery tray with a special battery holder for a Grp 34 yellowtop Optima, and then welded on a little perch for the Braille (Deka) B14115 battery. Then wired the car stuff to the Braille, connected the two batteries together with a Blue Sea ACR, and wired various 'house' loads to the yellowtop - the winch, air compressor, fridge, lights.

I've eyeballed lithium battery setups lately, but so far haven't really seen much higher amp-hour capacities in a stock sized bolt-in casing. And the prices are a bit eye watering, but in theory they should outlast 2 or 3 lead acid and/or AGM batteries.

In your situation, I'd just slap a yellowtop in there. It's under $300, it handles starting and is fairly deep cycle. The version that fits in the 4Runner is 48 aH, and again, that ran my Dometic for right around 2 days in Moab last summer.

This summer I was using a Jackery power pack (Christmas present from my wife) run in a pass-through config (it charges from the car when the motor is running, mostly, and the fridge runs off it). Which is probably sweet wretched excessive overkill.

You guys better be extremely careful with lithium ion batteries as you can't put the fires out. Ev melt down all the time from them.

A lithium iron battery is a lot more chemically stable and a lot less likely to melt down. No way will I be using one.

I personally know a fellow who power tools shorted in the bed of his truck and his rig is no more nothing left. Water doesn't put the lithium fire out either.

Your calls though as your rigs..

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I'm a bit wary of them as well. You need to have an ABC rated fire extinguisher (at least) on hand, but thermal runaway is hard to stop from reigniting. If the things (big EV batteries) explode, they can send hot cells in every direction like a cluster bomb of fires. I'm a bit of a hypocrite since i just realized I have a NOCO jumpstart/power brick in my rig at all times but they're safe....right? Right?

Edit NOCO are Lithium Iron

I use capacitor jump boxes that charge up on even low voltage batteries to jump a car. There are no batteries in them. After I saw the power tools, batteries destroy a fairly new pickup truck due a short and thermal runaway. ...

I am not really happy having a cell phone in the car anymore. Nor carrying a laptop. But I really keep an eye on those 2 things.

They, too, have lithium ion batteries that can destroy any vehicle as well.

These batteries really need to be replaced with less voiltle chemistry.

Any EV or hybrid vehicle owner is sitting in time bomb that could melt down at any time without warning.

They couldn't put one out on interstate I80 . Nothing would work.
All the fire departments have training now.

The firetruck has to follow the tow truck because it can spontaneously restart, and it has to be parked away from 25ft all around it. So it cause it starts up again.

Tell me again how great these new vehicles are. Not to mention, they have complete control over them. They know how much energy you used to charge the vehicle. They can lock you out and prevent you from driving it. They will charge you more added to your charging fee the liquid fuels tax. They are twice as heavy as gasoline cars. Those taxes are coming. It's just a few years away.

On star was the start of vehicle surveillance. Now it's all built in the ev and hybrids.

People really need to wake up to what is going on around them...

Sorry, I get off my soapbox.

If you want the name of the capacitor box. Let me know...



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Agreed. Privacy is an illusion these days, especially in more urban areas. My wife buys things for the Gov and those Your Speed Is....roadside signs on wheels aren't there to tell you what your speed is!

I feel bad for the OP - He just wants to know what's the burliest battery group size he can fit! Anyone?

I think there is a thread on this. Which group of biggest Battery fits in. Hang on...

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Largest battery group that fits?


This may help...

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Dumb question: are there any Negatives yuck yuck to using a battery with both top and side terminals in this way: Top posts for the normal connections and side terminals to your aftermarket fuse block/breaker setup? It would make pulling out the battery a bit more tedious, I suppose.

I can't see anything wrong with that. Just have to make sure the positive side terminal is covered. We could probably get those side terminals with wires from junkyards to feed your accessory fuse box...

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I have a fancy accessory tray and have a Blue Sea block on it and cables ready to go to the battery. I might just buy the thread-in side terminals new as you can get them with red and black rubber covers. This all depends on whether I get my buddy's battery with the 4 posts. He is doing a 2 battery thing and his yellowtop is too big.