The noise is apparent when lightly pressing the brakes after I've been driving for a short while - I was just able to isolate the noise as the rear brakes by also hearing it when I pull the e-brake.

As for aftermarket parts, I was told the shop uses Raybestos which to my knowledge is a pretty reputable brand - they also did a warranty replacement on the rear drums already as part of the initial diagnostics.

As for the bellcranks, I am unsure of the status but I will add this as a note of interest along with the brake fluid, and triple checking the e-brake to rule out more variables.

Appreciate the comments guys!

Ok, I'll give it one more attempt and then give up. Let's again apply some common sense to this problem. No noise before the brake job. Rotational noise apparent while applying the brakes after the brake job. New aftermarket drums and shoes installed. Hmmmmm, I wonder if it has something to do with the new drums and/or shoes?

OP, when you come onto a forum like this, you are delving into years of experience, and for some guys, decades of experience with these rigs. I guarantee your issue will be fixed with a set of OEM drums and OEM shoes, unless the problem exists because of a mistake from the mechanic that did the job.

Tim.. The guy was asking for brainstorming ideas and doesn't do his own work.

All this would take is bell crank freezing or sticking or e brake pivot issue to create this issue. Its in Canada which is rust belt area. That aftermarket mfg of brakes is not your local box store components. I actually like using Raybestos and I have used them on my rigs.

Perhaps his old shoes haven't been adjusting properly for years and thus why it wasn't like this before.

Maybe he is not in a position to throw out everything and buy all OEM.

I know I would make darn sure my e brake cable is functioning fully properly before replacing with OEM

You don't have to deal with rust...This cables pivot points and bell cranks are notorious to stick and seize in the rust environment. They have been since the 1970s and 1980s drum brakes are all very similar.

Your talking about $500 to $600 or more of brake components for a slight brake noise in the rear not to mention labor ( drums, shoes, wheel cylinders)

Being that we are not there or know the complete history of the rig. We don't know the condition of the emergency cable system.

I mean say the OP does what you said and still has this rotational grinding sound then what?

He is out more money and the issue is still there.

After all this work and the mechanic can't tell the bell crank is sticking? It's certainly possible because there's lots of shitty mechanics out there, but you'd think a mechanic working in Vancouver understands corrosion issues and that the bell crank needs to operate smoothly so the shoes don't drag.

Further, the sound is only apparent when the service brake or parking brake is applied. He didn't say it makes noise all the time. A sticking bell crank would cause a constant rotational noise.

So, it sounds like an issue with the parts to me. I can't count how many times I've heard people have had issues with aftermarket drums and shoes on these rigs. The OP shouldn't have to eat the cost of the aftermarket parts. The shop can return them.

Another thing to note is I bet there was nothing wrong with the OPs drums. I've done the rear axle seal job on probably 15 rigs. Not one of them did I replace the drums for the person I was helping. I cleaned up the drums with brake cleaner, installed some new OEM shoes and they were good to go.

OP, if the shop didn't chuck the old drums, have them reinstall them with a set of OEM shoes.

Why not have the drums thats on it verified they are round and in spec.


Then, do a piece at a time change. This way, you know exactly the causing the issue.

I have seen times when it looks like it's one thing. When it's something else many times before. far too many times to count.

The idea of just replace everything the parts cannon approach is not cost effective and almost always a waste of money and time.

Always best to step back and verify first and without seeing things and verifying what was checked and not it's harder to pinpoint the exact cause.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

There's that Parts Cannon reference again. You really like that one. Here, I'll give my own term now. How about Labor Cannon? How much is the mechanic going to charge to pull the drums and either measure them or put them on a brake lathe and turn them? Maybe he won't charge. I don't know.

The OP is armed with all the information he needs to navigate his problem. Which way he chooses is entirely up to him. Like the old saying goes, "You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink". I've given my two and half cents of advice on this subject and I definitely have zero desire going back and forth further with you debating which is the better course of action. I know the way I would go based off my experience doing lots of rear brake jobs on these rigs. I've never had one issue with OEM drums or shoes, but I've heard of many people having issues with aftermarket.

I'll likely forward this entire thread to my mechanic for them to review the suggestions and we can chat about what to do.

I just wanted to reiterate that I do hear the noise when I put my foot on the brake pedal (when slowly coming to a stop the grinding is present) - not just using the e-brake. I just mentioned the e-brake since it pretty well ruled out most other things in my head and the culprit was something up with the rear brakes.

Would the rear axle seal cause intermittent rotational grinding noise?

I have a video I will try and post

https://imgur.com/a/HySiYgN

Thanks for the video. To me is sounds like metal hitting its not consistent grinding. Something touching the drum. Dust shield bumping it etc. Hopefully your mechanic will be able to patch you up. :-)

The answer is most likely No. Your wheel bearing would need massive play to give you that noise when the brakes are applied. If your bearing(s) were that shot, you'd hear a constant rotational noise. The wheel bearing theory given was a big shot in the dark. Like I already said, logic or common sense needs to be applied to this problem. It would be a HUGE coincidence for the wheel bearings to go out right at the time you got a brake job done. Is it possible? Sure, anything is possible. It's just like, is it possible a certain someone won't comment back on this topic? The answer is Yes, but VERY unlikely applying my experience on this forum.

Your problem is with the brakes and your mechanic owes it to you to figure it out. It shouldn't be your problem to fix it. I'm just arming you with information to use to get the guy on the right track.

Good luck! You're welcome to personal message me or contact me on my YouTube channel for further help. I'm not going to comment further here.

Tim you worked on 15 brake jobs and your an expert. I hate to break it to you that you are not. You are a hobby mechanic like most of us are. You are not a certified master Toyota technician. Nor a master mechanic. In your own mind you are I cant fix that.

I done over 30 of my own drum brake repairs fixes on Toyota trucks, 4 runners, camrys etc. Not to mention watch other mechanics who do it for a living more times then I can count. I have a pile more experience then you when it comes to drum brake issues among other things. Plus you need to realize that 50 to 60% of all garages do not use OEM brake parts. Heck half the dealerships wont to save their costumers money. Maybe some people know more about things then you do about certain things.. Maybe they had more experience then you. Some of us have been working on Toyota's longer then you have and I am not an expert nor never claim to be one.

OP, I lied. I'll comment one more time. You just witnessed my application of logic. I knew a certain someone couldn't resist posting again, and sure enough, I was right. All it takes is using some experience and common sense to figure something out.

OP, take a look at my library of videos on my YouTube channel and figure out for yourself if I'm someone worthy of taking advice from. Of course I'm not always right, nobody is. I also don't know everything. I'm learning new stuff everyday.

Short of a mistake made by your mechanic, your problem resides with the brakes parts that were installed. I'm not there to see the work the mechanic did, so I'm assuming he knows what he's doing. Sometimes that's a big assumption because there's lots of incompetent mechanics out there, some on this very forum. I can't count how many times someone brings their rig to a Toyota dealership that is filled with Toyota Master Technicians and somehow they find a way to screw up a whole lot of people's vehicles while charging them a boat load of money. You see, some people think titles mean something. I know better. It's just a piece of paper that they can frame and put on a wall. In reality, the best person to work on your rig is you, because you have the vested interest to make sure the job is done right.

Here's some more sage advice from a Non-Certified Toyota Technician. Start investing in tools and learning about Auto Mechanics. You'll be much better off. Also, use some logic and common sense for who you choose to take advice from on Toyota forums and Toyota Facebook groups. Most of the information given is pretty good on this forum but there's exceptions to that rule. Facebook groups have good contributors too, but also a fair amount of people that are there to just talk shit to each other.

Good luck. Let us know what the mechanic figures out.

First of all, I appreciate information from both parties here so thanks guys

My mechanic at the shop has been very helpful with all of this and I wanted to take to the forums to see if I could gather any more outside perspectives before we proceed.

My mechanic actually recommended one option take it to the Toyota dealer and if they find a simple adjustment that fixes it, they will pay the dealership bill... so it's hard to imagine someone that sure of their work would have missed something but these things do happen of course.

That said, the shop also has very high confidence in their parts supplier (Raybestos) so I sort of doubt the 'all new OEM parts' route will be recommended

Tim, I have watched many videos of yours on YouTube and fixed a few basic things myself with your guidance so extra thanks there! I would love nothing more than to have the space, tools, and time to fix this 20-year-old truck myself but unfortunately, I live in an apartment in a city so it's just not realistic for me (yet!)

I don't know Tim. I have this sticker on a toolbox in the garage and it's a title that I take very seriously. It's a title that I earned from watching mostly your videos and several others. So........Just sayin.

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Hey, I've got the same one, but it's actually a banner that I hang in my garage letting people know I'm YouTube Certified as well.