10-17-2023, 04:49 PM
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#16
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Pasadena, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
They are the same. Interchangeable.
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Agreed. They should all be the 'oval' plug type. Get the 80A version. If you are tight on $$$, you can likely just do brushes.
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
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10-17-2023, 06:31 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Supra
Thanks guys - I will be going with the 80A version.
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I hate to say I tested both the 70 amp and 80 amp Alts and both will only push 40 to 41 amps in drive idling with the brake on at a stop at 600rpm with the automatic.
It’s easy Changing the brushes. But up to you.
Most reman companies only replace what was bad/failed. Is Denso the same……probably…….pay the extra 40 dollars for a lifetime Warranty on a high milage rig. They figure it will be in the junkyard before it fails again.
As an example. they receive a Alt with worn brushes……the correct thing to do is Chuck it in the lathe and turn down the commentator where the brushes ride. They don’t. Put cheep China soft brushes in and 1 year later you get the battery light again. Pull brushes and they are nubs. Like they had 200k miles on them and the Alt only had 20k miles on it.
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10-17-2023, 11:05 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 1,427
Real Name: Keith
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Senior Member
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Real Name: Keith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Supra
Thanks guys - I will be going with the 80A version.
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I ordered the 80A version from a 2000 4Runner and installed it into my '97 no problem. Why suffer with 70A when you can have 80A?
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97 4R SR5, 4WD/Elock, 3.4, 5spd. OME881/890 springs/OME shocks, 265/70/16 BFG AT/KO2.
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10-18-2023, 07:31 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: NOVA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Supra
My buddy at the dealership is getting the 70 and 80 amp versions to compare side by side. I should know in a day or two if they are at least physically the same, connections, etc.
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Very well. I will add that when you knock out this replacement, I would definitely recommend hanging onto your oem alt and keep it for a future project to have as a spare. I’d get a brush replacement kit from Toyota, I’m sure you can find all of the needed p/n’s here on this website for components needed replacing.
I only say this because it’s always a good idea to have a spare on hand and ready to go if at all possible. Plus it’s OEM. So that’s a huge benefit over an aftermarket piece of junk.
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10-18-2023, 09:20 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: DFW, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
Very well. I will add that when you knock out this replacement, I would definitely recommend hanging onto your oem alt and keep it for a future project to have as a spare. I’d get a brush replacement kit from Toyota, I’m sure you can find all of the needed p/n’s here on this website for components needed replacing.
I only say this because it’s always a good idea to have a spare on hand and ready to go if at all possible. Plus it’s OEM. So that’s a huge benefit over an aftermarket piece of junk.
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I have the local alternator guy rebuild my OEM one for 90 bucks. He replaced the bearings, brushes, plunger,, and cleaned it all up for me.
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10-18-2023, 10:16 PM
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#22
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Take it for what it’s worth…. Every reman is a OEM unit rebuilt to the cheapest specs.
I fixed my dead CarQuest Alt with brushes from Toyota.
I fixed my New Made in Asia starter with parts I had left over from fixing an OEM Starter.
And I’ll say that for the price of the New starter with the plunger greased/ replaced with a OEM contact kit is well worth it.
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10-19-2023, 12:05 PM
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#23
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
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Real Name: 3 Bears
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
Very well. I will add that when you knock out this replacement, I would definitely recommend hanging onto your oem alt and keep it for a future project to have as a spare. I’d get a brush replacement kit from Toyota, I’m sure you can find all of the needed p/n’s here on this website for components needed replacing.
I only say this because it’s always a good idea to have a spare on hand and ready to go if at all possible. Plus it’s OEM. So that’s a huge benefit over an aftermarket piece of junk.
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agree with this. I did a denso rebuilt on mine, with 249k and sounded like a bearing going, so got a rebuilt. Turns out the bearing whine was not the alternator. So kept the core, put brushes I had on hand, and its sitting on the shelf as a spare
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2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
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10-20-2023, 10:24 AM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadow247
I have the local alternator guy rebuild my OEM one for 90 bucks. He replaced the bearings, brushes, plunger,, and cleaned it all up for me.
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That's a definite win. $90 sounds like an excellent deal especially if he's using all OEM components.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears
agree with this. I did a denso rebuilt on mine, with 249k and sounded like a bearing going, so got a rebuilt. Turns out the bearing whine was not the alternator. So kept the core, put brushes I had on hand, and its sitting on the shelf as a spare
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Smart way to go about it and I would do the same myself to be honest.
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