What size did you end up with?

255x85x17

The Mickey Thomson Baja Boss A/T's.

Hoping the narrower width will negate at least a portion if the rubbing that's likely.

But I'm ready to just deal with whatever percolates up and out the decision.

Nice - drop a couple pics when you get them on if you can.....

Alrighty, today was the f*ck around and find out, phase.

They were on, now, just rears are.

Fronts *juuuust* rubbing the UCA, so spacers it is.

They slapped my old ones back on so I could drive home, and my shop is seeking out locally available spacers, they feel an inch will get me where i need to be.

I hadn't anticipated how close to the front edge of the wheel well, the rears would get (I can' say I'm surprised though), it does ZIP a touch during suspension compression, as the pic will make pretty clear.

Curious how folks have dealt with that, since the spacer obviously won't. Maybe it just sands itself down through enough plastic and I ignore it??

Endlessblockades, I think your spacers are what I'm after, you said they worked well for you thus far?

I know cheap ones aren't wise, I know ones that have recessed lug pockets to keep OEM stud length are also smart. Does brand matter in this case?

Jst curious if we can find generic ones locally, that have the features needed, if brand name is still worth waiting a few more days for.

But, overall, I like the look, and the new wheels do look sharp!

So, without further ado?

PICS!

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Spacers will help with UCA clearance but that's about it other than a 'better' stance. I believe they can cause other contact at full lock. If you get spacers and plan to keep running them, def go with a high-quality hub-centric version like Bora or Spidertrax. Often when people upgrade to new wheels they sell the spacers at a steep discount (seems they have gone up in price like everything else). Not sure if it's wise to run used spacers on a daily driver and not sure what to do about the flare rubbing but it looks like you could remove the extra wheel-well splash extensions. The Limited flares didn't give me that issue as they had removable end segments. Edit - I am running much smaller tires.

SpiderTrax, TrailGear a second, hub centric lug centric 1.25" the go to for a long time.
Generic get you hurt.

Looking Good!!

Thanks for confirming the direction I was heading.

I'll see how much "tire sanding" resolves that rear rub, bit removing the extension, also removes a big piece of trim that would then look silly.

May get aggro with a Dremel once I have a wear pattern established so I can see how much actually needs to come off.

I'm an impatient person, this is good practice for me.

Okay, quick edit:

RedRunner, you mentioned 1.25".

My shop noted that the rear tires sit closer in than the fronts which sit more proud of the body.

Is there any value/point, in getting differential ones to try and even out that projection? Or just 1.25 for both?

Pull the rear flares off and trim the INSIDE at the bottom there a bit. If you notice, they are about 1/2" farther back in that area than they should be. There is a lip on the inside that pushes it that way that you can avoid. When bolting on, push/adjust it as you tighten the bolts to get the best alignment. You should be fine on the rear after that.

Front... well...

-Charlie

For the visual of tire protrusion that's up to you. Important thing is hub & lug centric in the long run.
Sometimes with thinner spacers you run into stud's lug nuts protruding beyond spacer interfering with wheel fitment.
Simplicity rules for me, don't want to add a problem. My rears sit about a 1/2" outward than front due to front lift.
There's tradeoffs the visual fades vs never a problem fitting any wheel.
My $.04

"You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to 96RedRunner again."

Dang, I tried.

Slinging an 80#+- tire/wheel priorities matter

So I got brave yesterday, removed my flares, and went to town.

Used a straight edge and level to determine exactly how far forward the clearance gain needed to be.

Dremel abrasive cutoff wheel did a gorgeous job, BTW.

The *tire facing* support material from farther up, sits well out of the way but extends down just far enough that I needed to do a gentle little radius, rather than a nice straight line, but it's subtle, and I'm okay with it, though I may go back and see if I can find a way to minimize it's appearance a little more, it's an odd convergence of material in different planes and angles, tricky to not have it look like a 4 year old with a chainsaw did it....

Honestly, pretty proud of my results, and hopefully I'll have spacers by the end of the week.

Last pic if just of the sidewall tread, dang, I love the tires!

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Okay, everything is on, and working, mostly....

Rears I already had sorted, SpiderTrax 1.25" spacers just bumped things out a little, ^the clearancing I did^ seems to have made them no longer rub.

Fronts, I am getting a bit of rub when near the stops, and it's hitting right at the lower most bolt heads holding on the fender surround.

There's plastic wheel well liner behind it too that seems to be buzzing a touch as well.

Do folks just carve that section out?? Or am I uncovering some sheet metal hole that's going to send road debris down into a deep well, never to be seen again?

I'm guessing that's the region that folks are beating back with a 2x4 and a hammer??

Everywhere else, full stop in both directions, not seeing any rub potential, so I'm pretty happy. The stance increase is really minor, I'm surprised, they still sit within the fender surrounds for the most part.

Going into storage later today since the roads got salted this week, so the 50 mile drive before checking spacer bolts torque, will come in the Spring, along with the more aggressive rubbing mitigation.

Love the look of the newer style wheels, and I nailed the look I was seeking in terms of no tiny doughnuts in huge wheel wells, things look nicely proportional again, and I really dig these tires too.

A big thank you to all who stuck it out with me, your help is much appreciated, hope you all have a safe, fun winter!

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@Mendoncyclesmith looking really nice congrats.
I've used the Truss style McMaster-Carr to help with the scrubbing on that bolt head.
May be all you need. Measure what you have order accordingly may be different than what I had.
Thanks to you posting tires you purchased going to give them a try shortly.

Thanks! Just put her to bed for the winter, wish I had more time, ah well, Spring will come soon enough.

Noted on those screws, thinking I'll need to be more aggressive than that.

Dremeled about half the height off both heads, still enough there to see the tire yank one out, sigh.

Come Spring, I'm getting the cams replaced so the full range of alignment adjustment is available, (that'll do my LCA bushings too, and hopefully kill my *thunk* in the process), and hopefully that will allow for a bit of caster adjustment forward to help with clearance.

I carved off the lower end of the plastic well liner (and removed my little running board delete fender surround caps too), a distinct edge seam was now visible, I Dremeled that back too, and the tire still catches as it swings past in a full turn.

So either alignment magic if that'll work, or, going to have to get more aggressive in my bending, deforming, grinding, etc.

Oh cool, so you're thinking about a set of these?

My only other input on them, since I think someone asked, road noise. These (for my 5 miles thus far) didn't seem any noisier than the Cooper Discoverers A/T3's I took off. They don't seem to have any ill manners for highway driving either, which is nice!