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Old 12-08-2023, 06:13 PM #61
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Originally Posted by Mendoncyclesmith View Post
I carved off the lower end of the plastic well liner (and removed my little running board delete fender surround caps too), a distinct edge seam was now visible, I Dremeled that back too, and the tire still catches as it swings past in a full turn.
Now try under suspension compression/articulation... You have 34's on there with spacers - I'd expect possibly more than a hammer will be necessary up front. an alignment will get you fully clearanced to metric 32's, and you are 2" (1" radius) above that.

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Old 12-10-2023, 09:53 AM #62
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After @phattyduck mentioned 34" tires I took a better look at what size you went.
Yes your past the truss head screws, and past the hammer as Charlie said. Put away for winter
I'd be saving for aftermarket adjustable upper control arms.
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Old 12-14-2023, 05:27 PM #63
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Noted, appreciate the input. Come Spring, I'll screw around with it.

Adjustable UCA's?

I really don't understand how this stuff works.

The spacers have the tires fully clear of the UCA'a currently, is there some sort of articulation that would commonly push the top end of the tire, close to the UCA? I was under the impression they were fairly rigidly in place, in that plane of motion.

What movements does an adjustable version create for you? Fore and aft? tilting tire top in and out? That seems bad and tire eating so I doubt it. Any recommended brands? I'll do some reading, might make sense with the adjuster cam replacement which includes my LCA bushings that are crapped out.

Turning, sure, I get that.

Vertically, my brain says I have enough space with the lift already in place.

The only rubbing I've experience thus far is where the Truss screws were suggested. With them, and the cosmetic cap removed, it's just that thin sheet metal section. I didn't mess with it or look that closely, but I need a tiny bit (less than 1/4") to be good for my very mild, typical use use.

That said, I found a 4x4 park about an hour from me (stoked), I may have to pay a visit next year just to find some stuff to make it move enough to really suss out my clearancing.

Pity they don't have a non FB website, but what can ya do?

FlexRock 4x4 | Attica NY

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Old 12-14-2023, 05:46 PM #64
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Starting to understand a little.

Just like everything else, huge price swings.

In no particular order:

You are being redirected...

I like the price and made in PA on these:

JBA STD High Caster Upper A-arms for Toyota Tacoma 1995-2004 with 4WD 4Runner 1996-2002 with 4WD

More money for an "extreme" product name??

Toyota 4Runner 1996-2002 UPPER CONTROL ARMS - 3RD GEN 4RUNNER | TOTAL CHAOS FABRICATION

Okay, so found a thread from here where everyone says the SPC's are the shiznit.

Are the JBA's just a waste of money? Or since I'm not overlanding for 150 miles in the Rockies every other week (read, ever), will they be a good fit and not kill me?

BIG question since I'm clueless.

With where I am at. Knowing I'm doing adjuster cams, new LCA bushings, recently did axles on both sides since both boots on each had torn (and were original), if I add in these bad boys to the job in the Spring, what else is on the shopping list so I don't end up breaking X because I did Y, and didn't add in parts AB and C in the process because I'm an idiot?

140K on her, she drives great as is.
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Old 12-15-2023, 02:29 PM #65
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Bit more reading, thinking the JBA's are the way to go.

Just spoke with them on the phone and straight up asked, politely. Why are you guys so much cheaper, AND made in the USA?

His answer made sense, and there's enough reviews, I'm comfortable.

Found a few references on these boards but honestly not much in the Gen 3 board.

So I am curious if I'm missing anything, as the threads on gen 4 and 5's all seem quite positive, with many saying the SPA's just cost more out of greed, since no one with a pulse would think coming out of China would be MORE expensive, and still being done.

Lastly, any thoughts on peripheral replacement items, in the same vein as, "if you're doing your timing belt. you're an idiot to not do water pump and pulleys at the same time, since it's the same job all over to replace them so it's cheaper to do it all at the same time."
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Old 12-15-2023, 04:15 PM #66
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Bit more reading, thinking the JBA's are the way to go.
People like the adjustability of the SPCs - but I DON'T like the proprietary ball joint...

For the JBA's (and any of the standard uniball style) arms, you have an off-the-shelf option if the ball joint takes a s**t. JBAs - GM 3/4 ton ball joints (they won't have the same articulation, but they will get you home), others, standard uni-balls.

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Old 12-16-2023, 01:33 PM #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
People like the adjustability of the SPCs - but I DON'T like the proprietary ball joint...

For the JBA's (and any of the standard uniball style) arms, you have an off-the-shelf option if the ball joint takes a s**t. JBAs - GM 3/4 ton ball joints (they won't have the same articulation, but they will get you home), others, standard uni-balls.

-Charlie
Thanks.

So, boiling it down, functionally, other than a slight increase in camber angle range (or whatever you'd call it) that I did read about, both are solid, safe, functional parts.

Since I've never blown out a ball joint on any vehicle since maybe that '78 Chevy van in high school, I'm unlikely to appreciate the difference between the two.

I did read about the serviceable, but open rather than sealed design, versus sealed and commercially simple to find/replace, and it's merits are definitely not valuable in my situation considering the cost difference.

Cool, JBA's it is. Those folks were awesome too, incredibly helpful and friendly. Highly recommended.

Oh, and, no obvious other points to hit, since "I'm going in there"?

Thanks again.

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Old 12-18-2023, 02:42 PM #68
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Oh, and, no obvious other points to hit, since "I'm going in there"?

Thanks again.
New OEM lower ball joints. OEM only. Can't stress that enough... They aren't 100% related, but if you are messing around up front and the lower ball joints are more than 100k miles ok, replace them.

They are operated in tension (opposite the normal/correct way) and fail catastrophically when they do, taking out many other parts.

-Charlie
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Old 12-18-2023, 02:53 PM #69
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Quote:
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New OEM lower ball joints.
Cool, thanks Charlie, that was one of my first projects this past Spring, so that box is checked already.

I've seen a few various threads mention LCA's and torsion bars. I'm guessing from your answer, if they're working, in my case, leave them be?

Appreciate the help!
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Old 12-18-2023, 03:55 PM #70
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Cool, thanks Charlie, that was one of my first projects this past Spring, so that box is checked already.

I've seen a few various threads mention LCA's and torsion bars. I'm guessing from your answer, if they're working, in my case, leave them be?

Appreciate the help!
Assuming you meant swaybars there - torsion bars were last on the 2nd gen 4Runners...

Well, there is a decent chance the lower control arm bushings are worn out, similarly with the swaybar bushings and end links - but those don't cause catastrophic failures. Just check while you are in there...

-Charlie
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Old 12-18-2023, 09:43 PM #71
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LCA Bushings I'd be thinking on them, what the history.
Original, It time to plan the job. Good time for Rack bushings, Rag joint since rack gets disconnected for LCA bushings.
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Old 12-19-2023, 01:51 PM #72
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Got it, thanks again.

Also, yeah, sway bars, that's it!

The LCA bushings are getting done as part of the adjuster cam replacement, so cool there too.

I'll be sure to ask them to look/wiggle, inspect while they're in there.

With how crappy our winters have gotten locally? As a winter lover, Spring can't get here soon enough....
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Old 12-19-2023, 03:15 PM #73
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With how crappy our winters have gotten locally? As a winter lover, Spring can't get here soon enough....
Ha! It finally has started raining here in Southern California. Nearly freezing here in the mid 40's overnight!

-Charlie
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Old 12-19-2023, 06:16 PM #74
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Have you decided what brand LCA bushing and Cam adjuster your using?
I've learned the hard way if you want 100k+ mi use OE for both.

Third coast winter setting in crocs n socks time.
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Old 12-20-2023, 01:46 PM #75
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RedRunner, hadn't decided, didn't think about it if I'm being honest.

Noted, I will make sure it's OEM, same as my replaced LBJ's are.

"Crocs 'n socks", lol, you don't have a pair of the winterized Crocs yet?

Glad you So Cal folks are getting rain, you need it. My sisters in San Jose, man, what a glorious part of the country you guys live in...
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