Hey all, I've played around at this already to some extent, but I've decided that I'd rather just do what's proper, and I cannot get straight answers from anyone, it's always "bolt it on and see, then deal with the issues.

96, total combined lift, 4.5" front, 3.5 rear. 2" suspension lift, then spacer blocks to level the front end out, but the 2.5 in front was too much, so I had to add 1.5 out back. Level now.

Slapped on metric 32's this past Spring, and made a stupid choice in model, so I'm looking to move them on and get the right things now.

I've had tire rub in the front when cranked to the stops, and the suspension moving deeply into travel with my old 31's, these new 32's are less aggressive, so I'm guessing the side knobs on the old ones were the "issue".

But going to a more aggressive 33, will bring it screaming back.

So, questions:

Is there a known, accepted offset number for wheels on gen 3's as tire size increases, to prevent rub? Not going super wide, just 10.5 of so.

Like, "oh, 1.5" offset wheels and you're golden till you get to ridiculous sizes", or something?

Second, any reason why I should do offset wheels versus spacer blocks behind the wheels? They seem sketchy to me, conceptually, but I may be totally off base. Obviously cheaper, so I'd go that way if they're just as safe and effective. Same question here then. What offset? 1", 1.5", 2"???

I really prefer bolt and go, not, "okay it's on, but we have problems X,Y, and Z, that you now need to go figure out the solutions for"....

Thanks!

The wider you go, the more tire rub you will have due to the Scrub Radius becoming larger. Stock wheels with 285's and aftermarket Upper Control Arms with Caster Correction would rub the least, if at all, once you pound down the pinch weld. Wider wheels with the same tires will contact the front and rear of the fender sooner. You'll have to do more trimming. A body lift will help alleviate these issues more than anything else.

I’m running 33.5” or 255/85/16(stock wheels) and I’m using a 1.25 spacer and I have pretty much no rubbing. I did have to beat back the firewall but it only took about 10mins to do. I also have a 2-2.5” front lift.

As far as spacers vs new wheels, if you like your wheels I’d just get spacers, make sure you get a reputable brand though and perform periodic checks on them. Spidertrax makes a 1.25 that a lot members including myself use and they have been fantastic, knock on wood lol

Width is the issue with these trucks not height when it comes to tires. Not sure if this answers your question but when it comes to adding oversize tires you will have to cut/trim or beat back something that’s in the way. There’s going to be no avoiding that unfortunately


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Thanks, appreciate the responses.

"Beating back the firewall" sounds a lot sketchier than it may be, am I just repositioning sheet steel with a hammer, or is it a more refined procedure?

I'm not married to my wheels, no, but if spacers are equally safe and functional, no point in just burning money. Have a buddy that got a new Bronco and he got offset wheels to fit his 35's in, and said with the wheels it was bolt and go, hence my questions now. Obviously, Ford, not Toyota, but I'm not enough of a car guy to know if one is more accommodating than the other...

I guess I need to wade into the confusing world of tire sizes and see what I want, then I can be more precise in my questions.

Bicycle tire sizing is SO much more straight forward, choose diameter and width, and go. Aspect ratio crap makes my head spin.

Yeah you’re basically just repositioning the sheet metal. I took a metal mallet to the pinch weld to fold it over. The user @badluck told me to take a 2x4 and put it on top of your tire and that’s a good gauge as to where your gonna hit so I’d try that before actually hitting anything


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Wheel spacers are safe when installed with a torque wrench and then rechecked at 50 miles, 500 miles, then every now and then when you have the tire off. Don't buy your wheel spacers off Alibaba and you should be fine. This is one of those parts where if you cheap out you'll get a cheap part.

Tiresize.com has a good tire size calculator/comparison tool that I use frequently.

As for clearancing for the size tire you are looking at it really is just taking a hammer and folding the pinch weld over as a starting point. Find a ditch/rock/jeep to articulate your front suspension on to a high degree and check for clearance issues while turning the wheels lock to lock. Adjust as necessary. Installing a body lift helps, but that's another can of worms.

Thanks again!

So, having trouble with the "2x4 on top of the tire" idea, not sure if you can clarify at all, or perhaps a pic of what you mean?

BadLuck, appreciate the affirmation on safety too, noted on checking tightness.

Checked out that calc, it may end up being useful once I get closer to making a purchase choice.

Looks like the narrowest 33ish tires get, is 10.5 (at last from my 5 minute crawl of Tiresize.com).

I've seen a few newer 4Runners on the road that seem to have very tall, but skinny tires. Think like big rig or dually pickup sort of presentation. Of course, most of those look really smooth tread wise.

Do all light truck, more aggressive type tires always gain width too, or am I just not looking at the right "class" of tires to get a tall/skinny selection?

Fact of the matter is, I like the look, and don't "mud" so the width isn't helping me much, and my brain says, skinner than 10.5 would help with my inside edges rubbing.

And, pics just because...

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So basically just take a section of 2x4 maybe 3 inches long or so and place it on top of the middle of the tire tread. A 2x4 is 1.5 inches thick I believe so it will simulate having a larger tire and you can see where the wood rubs and that will be a spot your tire will rub. @badluck could probably say it better than I can.

Also you can get 33x10 tires. I’m not sure if your run 16s but my tire size is 255/85/16 which is 33x10 but your only going to find mud tires in that size. I personally highly recommend them as they are taller than the 285/75s but don’t weigh as much and make the steering lighter


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“I don't think the height will impact me at all.”

Tire Height isn’t really an issue with these trucks it’s the width that kills them. I ran 255/85 on stock suspension and the clearancing was very simple and easy. Took about 10-15 mins per side hitting the firewall and trimming the front bumper a bit.

Like how people with 285s usually do new upper control arms and spacer and all that. 255s you don’t need to do any of that, like I said I ran them with totally stock suspension


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Are the 'spacers' you are talking about suspension spacers or body lift? If not body lift, your total suspension lift in the front means nothing for tire clearance - the suspension travels in the same arc no matter its starting point.

Clearance is highly dependent on wheel offset, tire width and what your definition of 'fits' is... so there is no such thing as a straight answer to this.

100% stock, no other changes, metric 32's are the biggest you can go.

As soon as you open up hammering, cutting, welding, etc. you can go up to about 35's. The farther out the wheels go, the more F/R wheel well clearance you need, the farther in the wheels go, the more you have to worry about upper a-arm and frame clearance. Bigger tires also mean more chance of breaking other drivetrain parts, re-gearing, etc.

The white lettering thing is a bit odd requirement - but DIY painting is always an option, which should open all the possibilities you may want. (there are plenty of Jeeps with 17's, so there really shouldn't be tire choice limitations)

-Charlie

Not sure if you are actually looking for feedback and information, or you're just wanting someone to tell you it will fit. Suspension lift changes ride height not the arc that the wheel travels during suspension travel. A 2 inch body lift doesn't equal 2 inches of tire clearance either.

Off on a bit of a tangent but related to the OP question.... does anyone happen to know the offset and backspacing on the factory 16" aluminum (5 star) wheels? I can probably dig it up, but this thread has attracted some knowledgeable members. I am running the 5-stars with 1.25" Spidertrax spacers all around. This places my current 265/75 tires right at the edge of the Limited flares which I like. I would like to move to 17" rims and approximate this width/geometry using the rims alone (and go to narrowish 33s).I'm trying to add up the numbers as well as overcome my considerable ignorance on the subject. Might make a Black Friday move, but I don't want to buy something because some wheel MFG site says 'This Fits Your 2000 4Runner'. TIA

Checking the 4th 5th Gen forums might help you with that 17's became the norm.

Bad Luck:

Sorry, I get it, and sort of yes, sort of no? If someone here had specifically fit X, Y and Z together and could say, "yes, that'll fit"? I'd be super happy.

Shy of that, you guys have been amazing, super patient and helpful, and it's appreciated, I know my approach is a tad wordy and unconventional....

White letters:

Purely a style desire, I'm 55, I always liked them as a kid, I know it's not currently trending though, even more so in 17" tires, so I'll have to just walk away from that, as a more aggressive tire that fills the wheel well better, is my end goal. I made a mistake buying the passenger rated Coopers I did, and they look anemic on the truck. A buddy jokingly told me to just paint pen the letters if wanted them so badly too, 96Red, so yeah, I know I'm being a wanker on that one, and your experience on that has been noted.

Phatty:

So, 2" OME suspension lift. Spacers are nylon blocks under the rear coils, an nylon pucks at the tops of the strut towers.

I'm sorry to be clueless, but what that is called, body lift or something else, I am unaware. Educate me as time and willingness allows, you've given me a lot of time over the last couple years, so thank you.

If my buddy is correct (I measured yesterday) the new 2022 alloys are +15 offset, same as my stock steels. He has zero offset wheels on his new Bronco with 35" K02's's and no other mods. Apples to oranges, not comparing the two, but those wheels allowed bolt on fit *for him*.

So I'm grasping things, slowly....

I'm also coming to grudgingly accept this maybe a bolt, on and discover I'm without a truck till I resolve the as yet unknown issues.

Hammering back the fender well, I can do that. Hoping the narrower Pizza Cutters will reduce that too. And yes, what I consider acceptable, is now on my list of things I comprehend. My old 31x105 K02's did zip something but only in an extreme move, and I lived with it, that may be in my future again.

Now to find someone local who can source these tires for me. I prefer paying cash, and as a small, local business owner, I vastly prefer to keep my dollars local, too.

THNK YOU TO EVERYONE, your help is invaluable to someone like me.