Try measuring from the hub center to fender lip - this takes tire size out of the equation... (tire flex, etc. make knowing lift height hard even if you know the tire size)

-Charlie

The measurements were taken with the same wheels on before and after so should be pretty accurate.. I helped hold the tape ;)

Wheels and tires are on. Stoked with how they look. Gonna need some work to keep them from rubbing but made it work since we had snow the last couple days.

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Center of hub to fender measurement is helpful for other people because it takes tires out of the equation. Even if 2 people are running the exact same tire size but different brands the actual tire size will be different. My 265/70R17 bridgestone tires will measure differently than 265/70R17 bfg all terrains.

You are adding scenarios that are not ours. We used the same exact wheel.. not a similar one. So the measurements are still accurate. You are arguing a point we all know.

Can you ship me a wheel/tire so I can see how this compares to where I'm at then?

You're dense.

How about I just put the stock suspension back on for you and measure to wheel center and get you the "exact same dimensions" I already told you just so you can sleep at night?!?

Are you just trying to get your post count up?!?!

Wheel choice

That wouldn't work either though, because at this point everyone's 20+ year old stock suspension is at different heights. Then you have to factor in that different model years came at different heights as well. Are you starting to see why a center of hub to fender measurement is preferred? I can reiterate why it's the preferred method and more accurate than ground to fender height if you like. I'm disappointed you resorted to name calling, but not surprised.

Name calling, I could have called you worse than dense!.. sorry you're sensitive.

Go lift yours and report it the "proper" way.. Sheesh.

If it will make you feel better then have at it bud. I'm sure it's nothing I haven't heard before from a person behind a keyboard

Got a cheap rack from Harbor Freight to hold farmers jack, some off-brand maxtracks, shovel, etc. Everything was feeling pretty wrapped up for the time being until felt some clunking last week and..... CV's toast. Not super surprised since it was working hard without a diff drop yet during the ice storm.

Decided to run the trakmotive extended CV's. They'll be in this week. Found some older threads about them with some mostly good reviews and some people saying they had to try a couple before they worked. We'll see how mine turn out.

Also got supplies for all gear oil changes, and an ARB breather kit for them as well. And a grease gun for driveshaft greasing. After that, pretty much all maintenance should be wrapped up and ready to enjoy it for a while until the next thing comes up.

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Common experience with the cv's i think especially after a lift. I bought mine and the guy had just put some cheap rough country lift on it, about a week after i got it home the cv's were throwing grease everywhere. Diff drop's seem to be a contentious subject, I just installed the trakmotive cv's and hoping they're gonna hold out without needing a diff drop. i've read lot's of positive reports on them.

Went the same route after mine kept tearing post lift. They’re a breeze to install. I pounded on em for ages with a dead blow and they didn’t want to go in. The telescoping portion would absorb the blow. If you have a buddy handy have them try and compress it as much as possible while you whack on it. I didn’t have a buddy and was able to just heave it in manually. Can’t really explain but if you give em a good shove they’ll go right in. Gettin them off is a little trickier than OEM but you can knock the dust cover off with a prybar and that’ll give you a good little ledge to pry from. I installed mine then immediately had to do the needle bearing. Save yourself the hassle and order the ECGS clamshell and do it it at the same time

Passenger side CV is in. No needle bearing on this side to worry about. I like the idea of the ECGS mod so I'm gonna wait to do the other side until I can get the bushing. This job went pretty smoothly, just took my time with the axle seal and getting it seated just right, on the inner lip depth.

The CV definitely needed to be replaced, but the clicking sound that made me investigate still remains... Further investigation revealed that its coming from the rear, not the front. I still only have factory panhard bar without eimkeith kit (planned). Could this be the culprit? It's not really correlated with drive to the wheels, more with changes in momentum like turns and bumps.

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