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Next project was the stereo install.

I wanted a double DIN head unit with wireless Apple Carplay, USB ports for storage of music files and good reviews. Normally I go with Pioneer but I kept seeing connection issues in reviews with them as well as others. One unit that didn't seem to be in that group was the Alpine iLX-507 so I looked for reviews and found this knowledgable pro's take on it very informative -



I like that it had physical buttons as well as the touch screen -

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I ordered the iLX-507, speakers and subwoofer from Crutchfield. They include the wiring harnesses for the head unit and speakers as well as speaker adapter plates for the speakers. A master sheet for installation was also included.

With the iLX-507 being the center of the system I next decided on Kicker DS series speakers for the doors.

Kicker 43DSC6704 DS Series 6-3/4" 2-way car speakers for the front doors and Kicker 43DSC504 DS Series 5-1/4" 2-way car speakers for the rear doors.

For a subwoofer I went with a JBL BassPro Nano to round out the system. It is a small unit that fits right under the drivers seat.

To help provide a better signal I bought a Kenwood KAC-M1814 4-Channel Compact Bridgeable Marine/Motorsports 400W Max Power Digital Amplifier from Amazon (it was cheaper). This small amplifier fit nicely where the original Toyota was located.

Installation was pretty straightforward. I soldered up the wiring harnesses for the head unit and the amplifier and then removed the old components. Since the OEM amp is no longer needed it was removed and the Kenwood amp put in it's place. I secured it with HD velcro tabs.

The rear door speakers were an easy replacement using the included adapters. The front door speakers required a little more work as the speaker wiring adapter cables didn't take the Toyota tweeters into account so I has to solder those wires into the main speaker wiring.

For a backup camera I bought this Natika backup camera. It can be flush mounted and comes with a holesaw. I installed it in the bumper above the hitch-

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For the USB access I installed this dual USB port in the place of the cigarette lighter -



This connects to the back of the head unit and allowed me to plug in a small Samsung USB drive with all of my music files. The second can be used for charging or data.

I then installed this triple USB/voltmeter/Power outlet in the place of the ash tray. It has 3 USB outlets for charging and one 12v outlet for other accessories-



I powered the outlets by connecting it to the original cigarette outlet wiring. It is switched HOT so will only work with the key on.

Next to that I installed the subwoofer control unit -

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As you can see in the backup cam bumper pic I have a LED tail light plugged into the receiver. I bought this one from Amazon -



When I plugged it in I found that it didn't work so I tested it on my Suburban and it worked fine. I found that the Toyota trailer wiring controller was dead so I replaced it with this Hopkins kit- plug & play and works great.

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With 226K miles and no record of the lower ball joints being replaced I decided it was time to do that job as preventative maintenance.

I used Toyota ball joints and Toyota black bolts.

Good info on the bolts - Choosing Lower Ball Joint (LBJ) Bolts – ADVENTURETACO

When that was done I replaced the front & rear anti-sway bar & steering rack bushings using Energy Suspension polyurethane kits. I found the nut used to secure the vertical bolt on the steering rack had been wrenched free of the frame so I had to weld that back on before finishing that part of the job.

Afterwards I took the T4R to a Toyota dealer and had a wheel alignment done.

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Another repair that was required was the broken antenna mast.

I purchased this kit and it worked well.

I pulled the antenna assembly from the wheel well and after taking the cover off the old broken bits were removed and the bail area cleaned. Then I lubed the bail area and reinstalled the assembly. After it was secure I installed the new mast and it works great.

A few youtube videos on this were watched beforehand, lots of wisdom out there.

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Next I decided to replace the upper & lower radiator hoses and flush & fill the cooling system. The hoses appeared to be original as the upper had a 97 number on it so I think they were due.

I ordered an aftermarket set from Amazon but they were way off on shape so I returned them and picked up a pair of OEM hoses from a local Toyota dealer.

In preparation I watched Tim's video on the procedure -



I ordered this funnel kit and it worked like a charm -



After flushing the system 4 times with distilled water I drained it for the final time and filled with Red Asian Peak coolant-

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Next on the docket was servicing the front & rear differentials, transfer case and manual transmission. After draining they we all filled with the appropriate lube.

This Toyota gasket set worked great for the diffs & transfer case plugs -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had to pick up the gasket for the manual transmission plugs locally.

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The next job was the 13WL Tundra brake upgrade.

I ordered this Powerstop KC2324 Z23 Kit from Amazon



I also ordered these stainless steel brake lines -



Installation was straightforward after trimming the brake shields. Again, Tim's video tutorial was a big help -



Before -

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After, second pic is the new brake line-

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Powerstop offers an $82 core return after you ship the originals back to them.

I used this Allstar brake bleeder, worked like a charm -



PhoRunner's video & bleeder recommendation -





I also bled/flushed the clutch system- easy!

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Another upgrade that I did was to replace the 1998 center console with one from a 1999-2002 T4R.

I bought one at a salvage yard and per the video below I also bought the rear bracket, floor pan cable plate and the hand brake-




I did have to widen the opening in the floorpan a little bit for the cable plate.

Then I moved the rear window switch from the center console to the switch panel to the left of the steering wheel. After I unwrapped some of the electrical tape the wiring harness for the switch reached easily.

The problem I found afterwards was that the switch labeling/action was reversed at the new switch location, DOWN was on the top of the switch and UP was on the bottom, not intuitive at all.

So I first reversed two of the wires on the back of the switch so that pushing the top of the switch put the window UP and the bottom of the switch moved the window down.

Then I relabeled the switch using plastic Dymo labels (white lettering, black background) and then clear coated the switch after cleaning.

It makes sense now -

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Next mod was to add some LED lights to the front bumper as running lights.

I used these-



I connected them to the the accessory outlet fuse location (engine compartment fuse box) using a Add-A-circuit fuse holder & a 2.5 amp fuse. This circuit is switched Hot so the lights illuminate when the key is turned to the ON position.

Installation into the bumper grille did require making an opening/slit in the plastic bumper grille for the top of the light bezel to slide into. These will definitely get your attention but being mounted low on the bumper they are not obnoxious-

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Another nice addition was this small garage door opener -



Fastened to the ceiling console with velcro - it works great -

[Fireball]

those OEM front mud flaps are the star of the build thread so far!

thanks for posting, i just picked up a 2000 and will be doing a similar list of PM & upgrades to it. appreciate the pics, info and helpful links!