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Old 02-13-2024, 07:30 PM #16
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Talk to a driveline builder like Tom Woods or a local shop. There's a good chance they'll do it cheaper and better. Toyota charges about the same for a 4WD rear driveshaft, but mine was over $100 cheaper, built with DOM tubing AND came with a case hardened yoke.
For what it's worth I've had two Tom Woods driveshafts. I sent the first one back because it was bent, and then had the second one rebuilt by a local shop because it was also bent.
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Old 02-13-2024, 08:58 PM #17
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For what it's worth I've had two Tom Woods driveshafts. I sent the first one back because it was bent, and then had the second one rebuilt by a local shop because it was also bent.
This is the first I have heard of 2 bent Tom Woods Driveshafts.. Interesting. Thanks for sharing it. :-)
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Old 02-14-2024, 06:01 AM #18
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Well... I haven't heard of tom woods before but it is not looking good for him so far. lol...

I think I'll either just buy an OEM one or there is a place here local to me called Drivelines Inc. Did a little research on them, they are supposed to be a really reputable place. The do driveshafts for BMW's, 18 wheelers and their quote "everything in between" they also make custom driveshafts for people like BJ Baldwin and his trophy trucks. Rad! If they are able to give a quote over the phone possibly and it is cheaper than OEM then that seems like a good choice. Well see what happens

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Old 02-14-2024, 07:02 AM #19
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They're well known in the 4x4 world, and I hate knocking them because they had good customer service and the driveshafts both worked, but they both vibrated badly at highway speeds. They'd be fine for a rock crawler, but for a DD I was frustrated pretty frustrated with how banana shaped they were.
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Old 02-14-2024, 01:55 PM #20
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Just called that local shop drivelines inc and talked with the guy on the phone he said using my factory trans yoke and rear yoke they could get a whole new drive shaft prop with 3010 outside c-clip uni joints with zerks within a range of 550 at the lowest and 650 for the highest. No doubt if I go with this place it will be very high quality work but definitely not cheaper than OEM hahaha. Benefits of doing it with this company instead of OEM is that the replacement universals is easier to replace mechanically and since it's a 3010 like the guy said on the phone it is the most common universal joint used.
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Old 02-14-2024, 01:58 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thezentree View Post
They're well known in the 4x4 world, and I hate knocking them because they had good customer service and the driveshafts both worked, but they both vibrated badly at highway speeds. They'd be fine for a rock crawler, but for a DD I was frustrated pretty frustrated with how banana shaped they were.
Well thanks for your input. I would've consider them an option if they didn't sell bananas. Just makes my choices less and easier though!
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Old 02-14-2024, 03:23 PM #22
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No one mentioned tires. I don't know if you are running stock or oversize. An unbalanced, out of round or worn tire is a possibility. I lost a weight on my '18 and am experiencing vibration, starting at about 65. Just waiting for the time for rotation to have it addressed.
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Old 02-14-2024, 04:29 PM #23
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Quote:
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No one mentioned tires. I don't know if you are running stock or oversize. An unbalanced, out of round or worn tire is a possibility. I lost a weight on my '18 and am experiencing vibration, starting at about 65. Just waiting for the time for rotation to have it addressed.
I mentioned in the first post in this thread the list of things I have done to my truck. Among the other things I had done a rotation and rebalance of my tires less than 1k miles ago and even right after I balanced them there wasn't much of a difference. I got the tires May of last year brand new and I even rotated them early right at the second oil change on her. I work at a tire shop so I did the balancing and rotation myself lol. I don't think it is the tires. They are only LT265/75R16 general grabber at/x. Oversized compared to stock but not by much.
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