Hey guys,

I've seen plenty of threads on here about vibrations and stuff but i'm not sure, they haven't really been much help for me....
I have a 1998 4runner 2WD. It only happens when I am going freeway / highway speeds and go above 60-65mph. Once I go above that I feel noticeable vibrations all around. Like dadadadadadadadada going down the road. Driving around town and under 60-65 its smooth no vibrations. I can feel it in my steering wheel and I can see the passenger seat shaking when no one is in it. I can also see the auto shifter shaking too. Everything kinda shakes because of it. I replaced so many things hoping that this vibration would go away but it's quite frustrating to say the least that it hasn't gone away. It's annoying because I drive other cars and it's smooth as butter and I feel nothing. I know it could be a list of things but at this point It should be able to be narrowed down somewhat.

At this point in time I have replaced, both L&R outer tie rods, lower ball joints. I have brand new camburg UCA's. Brand new whiteline poly LCA bushings. New energy suspension steering rack bushings. New king shocks. All four tires are new put on early last year and have been rotated and rebalanced recently, none asked for any crazy weight or anything.

Anyone have any ideas?
I have felt my driveshaft for play too to see if it is that but I gave both universal joints a strong wiggle and neither front or rear had play. I also want to do the tac weld and steering plastic ball shim thing. Not sure if that would help though.
I am trying to think of other things I could replace related to the steering / suspension.

Could it be the inner tie rods? I felt them before and they feel fine no play or anything.

Shot rear control arm bushings?

Out of balance driveshaft?

Worn out rag joint / steering universal joint?

Steering rack guide?

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

Considering your symptoms, I'd probably start by checking out the driveshaft. Even if the wiggle test didn't show anything, it might be worth getting it balanced just to be sure. Also, look into the wheel and hub bearings – any uneven wear or play in these parts can cause vibrations, especially when you're cruising at higher speeds.

Don't forget to inspect the suspension mounts and bushings, not only in the rear control arms but all over the suspension system. A worn-out or damaged component here can definitely transmit vibrations.

If you haven't already, take a look at the alignment too. Sometimes even a slightly misaligned wheel can be the culprit for vibrations at higher speeds.

And you can check those transmission mounts. If there's too much movement in the transmission, it could lead to vibrations throughout the whole vehicle.

Pull the driveshaft. It's 4 bolts and a drip pan to catch any fluid that comes out the trans. I had the vibration issue (60-70mph) a few years ago on my 99 2wd and it was one of the u joints that was seizing up but it had no play while installed. I replaced both joints and the vibrations were gone.

Like Sid said, remove the driveshaft and check the ujoints for play off the truck.

Even if both u-joints are fine, the factory 2WD prop shaft has a rubber isolated 2-piece shaft that can cause serious vibrations when the rubber wears out. A complete new solid prop shaft will fix it. Any local driveshaft shop or even auto parts retailers can get the part.

4 bolts, slide out of trans, slide new one in and re-install the 4 bolts.

-Charlie

Driveshaft would've been the first thing I checked - well, well before tie rods and UCAs.

What both of you guys are saying makes a lot sense to me. I guess a bit unfortunate. At this point I think I'll just be buying a whole new driveshaft lol. Those who know old probably original universal joints are probably worn out and along with what phattyduck said about the two piece part. Which I just discovered! Man how did you know that?? I just went out to my truck and took a good look underneath again, I was confused what you were talking about since I've seen my driveshaft before it seemed like it was always just one big piece. I didn't realize it was a smaller inner piece with rubber around it and the outer piece. I will attach some pictures I took I was looking at the back of it on the side connected to the pumpkin and I saw what looked like something separating the two metal pieces and I got my knife out and poked it and sure enough it's rubber. Interesting. Since what phattyduck says is true it would probably be better off to just replace the whole unit. Hopefully that includes new universal joints on it? At least it's easy to do haha!

Thanks twistedsid & phattyduck.

Attached Images

       

Just started looking around on the internet. Looks like they just sell the whole driveshafts as a unit. Fresh prop unit with new universals. I'll just do that. I see that rock auto has some and I looked on O'Reilly's. Would this be something I should go OEM (not sure if I can even buy it) or would like a dorman or something be good? Seems like the aftermarket ones have designs where you can replace the u joints easily any recommendations for which one to get? Not even sure what the part # for the OEM one is either it's prolly discontinued or something haha Thanks.


1998 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 3.4L V6 Drive Shaft | RockAuto

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/c...?q=drive+shaft

I am glad you said those things because I have actually done the transmission mount and I got an alignment at firestone 3 weeks ago since i put on new shocks. Alignment is good right now and the tranny mount was replaced less than 5K ago. It is probably my drive shaft lol... which I was hoping it wasn't but given the age of the assemblies on the driveline seems like the most likely possibility. Good idea with the wheel bearings too. I can just jack up the wheels and check. They should be pretty good though,