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Old 03-18-2024, 03:55 AM #16
19963.4lsr5 19963.4lsr5 is offline
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It’s interesting they last as long as they do. My ebrake does little to nothing when pulled (11-12) clicks. Had my wife pull the brake for me while I watched the shoes, and there is very very little movement, which made me think if something else was wrong and it’s not the shoes. I pull the brake lever just about every time I park. We’ll see what happens when I get the new shoes in later this week. Fingers crossed it works afterwards


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Go through the rear brake/e brake adjustment procedure with the new shoes.


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Old 03-18-2024, 10:52 AM #17
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Those brake parts look fine, other than the worn pads. Be sure to clean everything up with brake parts cleaner before disassembling, lubricate the backing plate at the correct pivot points and either replace the drums or have them resurfaced. If they have enough meat, O'Reilly's will resurface both for around $60.
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Old 03-18-2024, 04:13 PM #18
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My brake shoes had a lot of dust and slightly uneven wear but it's common for them to still have that much life left at that milage. Shoes take longer to wear down, and they're located in the back which does less braking. I wouldn't replace them, if you get shaking you resurface the drums, the shoes don't cause that.

Toyota more often than not has multiple part numbers that work for brake shoes and pads.
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Old 03-18-2024, 04:17 PM #19
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Originally Posted by O2RunnerSR5 View Post
It’s interesting they last as long as they do. My ebrake does little to nothing when pulled (11-12) clicks. Had my wife pull the brake for me while I watched the shoes, and there is very very little movement, which made me think if something else was wrong and it’s not the shoes. I pull the brake lever just about every time I park. We’ll see what happens when I get the new shoes in later this week. Fingers crossed it works afterwards
Avoid breathing that brake dust. That's why brake parts cleaner exists - to clean that stuff without blowing it into the air... Otherwise, things look good under the drums. Probably don't even need to be done.

It does sounds like something in the parking brake and auto-adjust system is not working. There are a few threads on here about how to verify all the parts are working. Pulling the e-brake is supposed to operate the ratchet (wear) adjusters as needed, so you are doing the right thing there. On my California, rust-free truck I needed to tighten the e-brake cable a tiny bit in the cab before the adjuster system started working again. In the rust belt, a number of components can freeze up and stop the adjustment system from working.

-Charlie
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Old 03-23-2024, 05:13 PM #20
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A little off topic from the original post, but I completed the job today. Took me 7 hours, but I could def do it in 3 hours now. Just wanted to post a couple things I came across and also I believe these brakes have been replaced before, looking at the hardware. Rock Rats method of preassembling the brakes is what I did and made the job of getting the new brakes on, fairly easy.

1st: Dorman kit HW17253 kind of sucks for an 01 4runner brake job. All I used out of it were the long springs, and springs located at the bottom of brakes and a couple of the cups that hold the brake to the axle. I really needed new pins but they were too small and other replacement springs were too small or too long.

2nd: my passenger side brake adjustment gear was seized. Which was kind of a pain, but removing the long spring and the spring at the bottoms of the brakes I was able to get the whole assembly off and unstick the assembly gear on my bench with vice grips and a screwdriver.

3rd: once I finished brake replacement, I tested the brakes. There was an improvement driving and braking, but ebrake was still lacking significantly.
I needed to adjust my ebrake cable in the cab. It would click 11-12 times. I removed the lock nut completely then tightened the adjuster nut until I got 7-9 clicks with normal pulling effort. I put the lock nut back on and tried torquing it to the 48 inlb per FSM, but the adjustment nut would turn with the lock nut (prob why it has you remove the console) So I just left it snug. Now the ebrake holds the 4runner in neutral on hills and in park great now!


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