User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 03-19-2024, 10:49 PM #1
Krommeweg's Avatar
Krommeweg Krommeweg is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kenai Peninsula, AK
Posts: 48
Krommeweg is on a distinguished road
Krommeweg Krommeweg is offline
Member
Krommeweg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kenai Peninsula, AK
Posts: 48
Krommeweg is on a distinguished road
Fuel Pump Resistance Reading and Multi-Meter Questions

Hey Folks

I'm chasing a P0171 and in the process of testing sensors. Speaking as more of an idiot than an electrician. The car is running smoothly, just a bit down on power and throwing the too lean code.

I've cleaned the MAF and the entire intake thoroughly, found no vacuum leaks, new air filter, plugs and wires, new fuel filter, still too lean. All OEM / Denso parts. Electrical grounds and fuses are in good shape. This is a "federal emissions" vehicle, so one cat, sensor on either side.

My multi-meter has been giving me some readings pretty close to what Toyota has in the Factory Service Manual. I have been getting a few odd or incorrect readings as well. I have been surfing the "search" function on these forums and how-to videos as well, but I still have a few obvious questions.

Generally when using a multi-meter to read resistance, I have been setting the meter to 200 Ohm. Is that the correct setting?

Ambient temp during this process is about 30 degrees F.

Testing the fuel pump itself, the FSM says 0.2-0.3 at 68F. My multi-meter reads 1.1

A/F sensor (upstream from the cat) should be 0.8-1.4 at 68F. Mine reads 12.1

O2 (downstream from cat) and MAF sensors appear within range.

These numbers lead me to believe my A/F sensor is bad (or is actually an O2 sensor and I didn't look at the part numbers close enough), so ordering another Denso replacement now. Does the reading I get from the Fuel Pump seem acceptable?

While testing the MAF sensor the FSM tells you to check resistance on the harness side of the plug to the MAF sensor. It looks like you're supposed to just shove the multi-meter probes into the back of the plug through the squishy insulation around the wire... This seems like a bad idea, am I wrong?

Thanks for reading, thanks for your patience with the obvious questions.
__________________
-- 1999 4Runner SR5, 3.4 5VZ-FE, A340E auto ~280,000 mi --

+ 265/75/16 Nokion hakkapeliittas > '01 Tundra brake swap (199m) > TRD 170 degree thermostat > Yukon axle shafts > Bilstein 6112s 600lb spring / 5100s and OME 890s > Airlift 1000 kit > Rear heater delete > Back seat delete

Last edited by Krommeweg; 03-19-2024 at 11:00 PM.
Krommeweg is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 03-20-2024, 01:08 PM #2
phattyduck phattyduck is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,743
phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute
phattyduck phattyduck is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,743
phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute
If you have a '99 Federal emissions, you have O2 sensors for the front and rear. Front AFR sensors are on 99/00 California and all 01/02 trucks.

When measuring very low resistances, you need to check the resistance of your leads by themselves and subtract that from your reading, and even then it is a crapshoot for how accurate you can be. I wouldn't really trust any reading below about 2 ohms unless you really know what you are doing.

Does your OBD-II reader do live data? If so, track short term and long term fuel trims and see if you can find a correlation to engine RPM and load where they are farthest from 0%. A good running (and unmodified) truck will be less than 5% basically everywhere in the RPM/load matrix.

If things are worse at low load, it hints at vacuum leaks, if it is worse at high load, it hints at fuel delivery limitations (fuel pump, filter, injectors, etc.).

-Charlie
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
phattyduck is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 03-20-2024, 08:07 PM #3
19963.4lsr5 19963.4lsr5 is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
Posts: 5,359
19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold
19963.4lsr5 19963.4lsr5 is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
Posts: 5,359
19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold
Fuel Pump Resistance Reading and Multi-Meter Questions

Like above you need to look at live data.

750rpm warmed up idle MAF reading and the idle and lightly loaded on a flat road between 40 and 50mph LTFT.


This is a good MAF at idle. Two 97’s had the exact same reading.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last edited by 19963.4lsr5; 03-21-2024 at 03:58 AM.
19963.4lsr5 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 03-22-2024, 10:34 PM #4
woodjunkie woodjunkie is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2024
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 7
woodjunkie is on a distinguished road
woodjunkie woodjunkie is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2024
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 7
woodjunkie is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krommeweg View Post
Hey Folks

I'm chasing a P0171 and in the process of testing sensors. Speaking as more of an idiot than an electrician. The car is running smoothly, just a bit down on power and throwing the too lean code.

I've cleaned the MAF and the entire intake thoroughly, found no vacuum leaks, new air filter, plugs and wires, new fuel filter, still too lean. All OEM / Denso parts. Electrical grounds and fuses are in good shape. This is a "federal emissions" vehicle, so one cat, sensor on either side.

My multi-meter has been giving me some readings pretty close to what Toyota has in the Factory Service Manual. I have been getting a few odd or incorrect readings as well. I have been surfing the "search" function on these forums and how-to videos as well, but I still have a few obvious questions.

Generally when using a multi-meter to read resistance, I have been setting the meter to 200 Ohm. Is that the correct setting?

Ambient temp during this process is about 30 degrees F.

Testing the fuel pump itself, the FSM says 0.2-0.3 at 68F. My multi-meter reads 1.1

A/F sensor (upstream from the cat) should be 0.8-1.4 at 68F. Mine reads 12.1

O2 (downstream from cat) and MAF sensors appear within range.

These numbers lead me to believe my A/F sensor is bad (or is actually an O2 sensor and I didn't look at the part numbers close enough), so ordering another Denso replacement now. Does the reading I get from the Fuel Pump seem acceptable?

While testing the MAF sensor the FSM tells you to check resistance on the harness side of the plug to the MAF sensor. It looks like you're supposed to just shove the multi-meter probes into the back of the plug through the squishy insulation around the wire... This seems like a bad idea, am I wrong?

Thanks for reading, thanks for your patience with the obvious questions.
Hey, man!

I'm a newbie, but I think you should double check the info in your Service Manual.

My copy says says 0.2-3.0 at 68F.

Best of luck, and if anybody knows where to find the Open Circuit Relay on a '97, I'd love to have that knowledge.
woodjunkie is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 03-24-2024, 05:56 PM #5
3ToyGuy 3ToyGuy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2023
Location: Chiloquin
Posts: 63
Real Name: Patrick
3ToyGuy is on a distinguished road
3ToyGuy 3ToyGuy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2023
Location: Chiloquin
Posts: 63
Real Name: Patrick
3ToyGuy is on a distinguished road
Woodjunkie, you're correct. The FSM fuel pump high reading does spec to 3.3 ohms. So 1.1 ohms is absolutely correct, and right in the middle of the range. That's the best possible reading. Given the temp, 30 ° F, getting that reading is unusual, but not beyond the realm.

Cold temps tend to give higher than usual readings, but not necessarily out of the range of possible readings. Given the 1.1 ohms that Krommeweg got, I would say the fuel pump is fine.

If he got 12.1 he got for the AF sensor, it MAY be bad. He should remove it, and take it in the house, and read it there, to get a reading within the temp range the FSM specs out. By the same token, if he's getting a reading from an O2 sensor, which he suspects he got, instead of an AF sensor, could it be correct? 12.1 ohms is good for an O2 sensor, according to the FSM. Just a thought.

BTW, 200 ohms is fine for checking the low readings Krommeweg is getting. On many multimeters, that's the lowest range there is.
Just a note on multimeters, too: make certain you remove at least the negative lead from the battery before you ohm out anything, especially is you leave it in-circuit while testing. The slightest current that passes through the meter while testing can blow the meter's ohms portion. Most meters have a fuse protecting the ohms section, but not all do. Something to bear in mind.

Also, yes, you can slide the meter leads into the back of the connector without hurting anything. Alternatively, you can take a very small piece of solid wire, and slide it into the connector's rear, and the touch the meter lead(s) to that. Whatever you use, just make sure it touches the metal pin inside the connector. Not some piece of insulation, or connector plastic. No damage should be done the connector, as long as no excessive force is used at any time.

Good luck to both of you.
Pat☺
3ToyGuy is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 03-25-2024, 08:11 PM #6
Krommeweg's Avatar
Krommeweg Krommeweg is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kenai Peninsula, AK
Posts: 48
Krommeweg is on a distinguished road
Krommeweg Krommeweg is offline
Member
Krommeweg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kenai Peninsula, AK
Posts: 48
Krommeweg is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
If you have a '99 Federal emissions, you have O2 sensors for the front and rear. Front AFR sensors are on 99/00 California and all 01/02 trucks.

When measuring very low resistances, you need to check the resistance of your leads by themselves and subtract that from your reading, and even then it is a crapshoot for how accurate you can be. I wouldn't really trust any reading below about 2 ohms unless you really know what you are doing.

Does your OBD-II reader do live data? If so, track short term and long term fuel trims and see if you can find a correlation to engine RPM and load where they are farthest from 0%. A good running (and unmodified) truck will be less than 5% basically everywhere in the RPM/load matrix.

If things are worse at low load, it hints at vacuum leaks, if it is worse at high load, it hints at fuel delivery limitations (fuel pump, filter, injectors, etc.).

-Charlie
Thanks for the thorough response. This is actually a Canadian vehicle, but it looks like in '99 they conformed to the same US Fed standards. When I replaced the exhaust from the Y pipe down it was so corroded that the 02 sensors disintegrated in my hands. The factory system definitely had one cat though.

When I have cleared the code, the issue always comes back within 20 miles and typically under high load. Uphill in 4WH, accelerating to highway speeds, etc. The fuel pump seems fine, and the truck runs smooth, although it's at that mileage where injectors begin to fail.

This process has convinced me to buy a ScanGauge. Looks like it does everything although it doesn't look like it displays real time ST/LT fuel trims... The Innova 3130 looks like a good choice too.
__________________
-- 1999 4Runner SR5, 3.4 5VZ-FE, A340E auto ~280,000 mi --

+ 265/75/16 Nokion hakkapeliittas > '01 Tundra brake swap (199m) > TRD 170 degree thermostat > Yukon axle shafts > Bilstein 6112s 600lb spring / 5100s and OME 890s > Airlift 1000 kit > Rear heater delete > Back seat delete
Krommeweg is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 03-25-2024, 08:12 PM #7
Krommeweg's Avatar
Krommeweg Krommeweg is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kenai Peninsula, AK
Posts: 48
Krommeweg is on a distinguished road
Krommeweg Krommeweg is offline
Member
Krommeweg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kenai Peninsula, AK
Posts: 48
Krommeweg is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodjunkie View Post
Hey, man!

I'm a newbie, but I think you should double check the info in your Service Manual.

My copy says says 0.2-3.0 at 68F.

Yeah you're absolutely right. Thanks!
__________________
-- 1999 4Runner SR5, 3.4 5VZ-FE, A340E auto ~280,000 mi --

+ 265/75/16 Nokion hakkapeliittas > '01 Tundra brake swap (199m) > TRD 170 degree thermostat > Yukon axle shafts > Bilstein 6112s 600lb spring / 5100s and OME 890s > Airlift 1000 kit > Rear heater delete > Back seat delete
Krommeweg is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 03-25-2024, 08:21 PM #8
Krommeweg's Avatar
Krommeweg Krommeweg is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kenai Peninsula, AK
Posts: 48
Krommeweg is on a distinguished road
Krommeweg Krommeweg is offline
Member
Krommeweg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kenai Peninsula, AK
Posts: 48
Krommeweg is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ToyGuy View Post

BTW, 200 ohms is fine for checking the low readings Krommeweg is getting. On many multimeters, that's the lowest range there is.
Just a note on multimeters, too: make certain you remove at least the negative lead from the battery before you ohm out anything, especially is you leave it in-circuit while testing. The slightest current that passes through the meter while testing can blow the meter's ohms portion. Most meters have a fuse protecting the ohms section, but not all do. Something to bear in mind.

Also, yes, you can slide the meter leads into the back of the connector without hurting anything. Alternatively, you can take a very small piece of solid wire, and slide it into the connector's rear, and the touch the meter lead(s) to that. Whatever you use, just make sure it touches the metal pin inside the connector. Not some piece of insulation, or connector plastic. No damage should be done the connector, as long as no excessive force is used at any time.

Good luck to both of you.
Pat☺
Thanks Pat! I appreciate you taking the time to answer the obvious questions.

Pulled both 02 sensors and brought them inside to test, they're reading within range. Did the carb cleaner test again, still can't find a vacuum leak. Then I pulled and cleaned the MAF again, tested it according to the FSM one more time, now I'm getting an incorrect resistance ( 1 ) and no voltage with it plugged in and the ignition on.
Tomorrow I'm coming home with a hand held diagnostic which reads live data.
__________________
-- 1999 4Runner SR5, 3.4 5VZ-FE, A340E auto ~280,000 mi --

+ 265/75/16 Nokion hakkapeliittas > '01 Tundra brake swap (199m) > TRD 170 degree thermostat > Yukon axle shafts > Bilstein 6112s 600lb spring / 5100s and OME 890s > Airlift 1000 kit > Rear heater delete > Back seat delete

Last edited by Krommeweg; 03-25-2024 at 11:13 PM. Reason: update
Krommeweg is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 03-25-2024, 08:24 PM #9
Krommeweg's Avatar
Krommeweg Krommeweg is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kenai Peninsula, AK
Posts: 48
Krommeweg is on a distinguished road
Krommeweg Krommeweg is offline
Member
Krommeweg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kenai Peninsula, AK
Posts: 48
Krommeweg is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
Like above you need to look at live data.

750rpm warmed up idle MAF reading and the idle and lightly loaded on a flat road between 40 and 50mph LTFT.


This is a good MAF at idle. Two 97’s had the exact same reading.
Thanks, I appreciate that. You like that 3130 scanner? It's definitely more in my price range than some of the other options.
__________________
-- 1999 4Runner SR5, 3.4 5VZ-FE, A340E auto ~280,000 mi --

+ 265/75/16 Nokion hakkapeliittas > '01 Tundra brake swap (199m) > TRD 170 degree thermostat > Yukon axle shafts > Bilstein 6112s 600lb spring / 5100s and OME 890s > Airlift 1000 kit > Rear heater delete > Back seat delete
Krommeweg is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 03-26-2024, 12:00 PM #10
phattyduck phattyduck is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,743
phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute
phattyduck phattyduck is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,743
phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krommeweg View Post
This process has convinced me to buy a ScanGauge. Looks like it does everything although it doesn't look like it displays real time ST/LT fuel trims... The Innova 3130 looks like a good choice too.
Both the SGII and SGIII do ST and LT fuel trims. On '99+ you can get the right codes to read trans temp, and on two-cat models it will read the front AFR too (again, with the right PID and math).

I have been fighting a P0420 issue recently and its nice to have a scanner built in at all times for checking/resetting codes...

-Charlie
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
phattyduck is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 03-26-2024, 12:16 PM #11
19963.4lsr5 19963.4lsr5 is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
Posts: 5,359
19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold
19963.4lsr5 19963.4lsr5 is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
Posts: 5,359
19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold 19963.4lsr5 is a splendid one to behold
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krommeweg View Post
Thanks, I appreciate that. You like that 3130 scanner? It's definitely more in my price range than some of the other options.

I have quite a few dedicated scanners.

It is old but I still like it and use it when I need a dedicated scanner. My SG doesn’t read MAF. And I can’t find the PID to program it.

SG’s website has the PID for the LTFT for Toyota and a bunch of others if it doesn’t show up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
19963.4lsr5 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 03-28-2024, 01:11 AM #12
Krommeweg's Avatar
Krommeweg Krommeweg is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kenai Peninsula, AK
Posts: 48
Krommeweg is on a distinguished road
Krommeweg Krommeweg is offline
Member
Krommeweg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kenai Peninsula, AK
Posts: 48
Krommeweg is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
I have been fighting a P0420 issue recently and its nice to have a scanner built in at all times for checking/resetting codes...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
I have quite a few dedicated scanners.

It is old but I still like it and use it when I need a dedicated scanner. My SG doesn’t read MAF. And I can’t find the PID to program it.
Thanks for all the input folks. I can't say it enough.

I disassembled and cleaned everything between the airbox and the throttle body, cleaned the MAF, new air filter, and reconnected the battery on Monday. Done that exact process at least three times in the last two months.

(Been through three air filters this winter on account of how sh!tty and dirty the paved roads are, not to mention the gravel. Also these Nokion tires are THE BEST STUDDED TIRE EVER MADE but they throw a lot of sand/rocks. The most recent filter was only a month old, but I had a new one on hand, so I swapped it.)

I let it sit for a day and drove back into town today. No codes so far. Spent $200 on a Innova 3100 at my local NAPA, hooked it up, ran errands around town and drove home. Still no codes. ~40 miles total, hills, highway, gravel, 4WD, same as always. Since this problem cropped up, the Check Engine light has always come back on before I complete the trip, within 20 miles. Not today Satan!

LTFT at cold idle was -5%, -3.9% at warm idle. 0% around 1900rpm and 60mph. It never exceeded the range between -5% and 3%.

MAF was right around 0.5 lb/min at idle.

All other values seemed within range... and that fuel trim fluctuation seems pretty darn minimal.

...so I guess I'll be up here, waiting for something to fail again.
__________________
-- 1999 4Runner SR5, 3.4 5VZ-FE, A340E auto ~280,000 mi --

+ 265/75/16 Nokion hakkapeliittas > '01 Tundra brake swap (199m) > TRD 170 degree thermostat > Yukon axle shafts > Bilstein 6112s 600lb spring / 5100s and OME 890s > Airlift 1000 kit > Rear heater delete > Back seat delete

Last edited by Krommeweg; 03-28-2024 at 01:14 AM. Reason: more info
Krommeweg is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 03-28-2024, 02:08 PM #13
phattyduck phattyduck is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,743
phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute
phattyduck phattyduck is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,743
phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute phattyduck has a reputation beyond repute
If your fuel trims are back down to <+/-5%, you are not going to get any lean/rich codes. Looks like you are good for now.

-Charlie
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
phattyduck is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 03-31-2024, 12:08 AM #14
Malinoas38's Avatar
Malinoas38 Malinoas38 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Central Pa.
Posts: 8
Malinoas38 is on a distinguished road
Malinoas38 Malinoas38 is offline
Junior Member
Malinoas38's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Central Pa.
Posts: 8
Malinoas38 is on a distinguished road
I chased a lean code and a warm start issue for a year. Ended up being the fuel pump. See attached video of my 4Runner.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=1xSjIcuSK2x8T4hR&v=uCriDDdw-V4&feature=youtu.be
__________________
2002 SR5
Malinoas38 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Reply

Tags
fuel , maf , multi-meter , resistance , sensor

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Parasitic draw draining the battery/multi meter assist needed zgensler31 3rd gen T4Rs 28 01-17-2022 04:33 PM
Torque Pro App vs Multi-meter for Volts mtbtim 3rd gen T4Rs 23 07-09-2016 09:18 PM
Fuel Pump Questions abrosk927 Maintenance/Detailing 3 09-25-2013 01:22 PM
Fuel pump whining. Clogged fuel filter or bad pump? Shawn5800 3rd gen T4Rs 3 04-18-2011 02:08 AM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:05 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Feedback Buttons provided by Advanced Post Thanks / Like (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
***This site is an unofficial Toyota site, and is not officially endorsed, supported, authorized by or affiliated with Toyota. All company, product, or service names references in this web site are used for identification purposes only and may be trademarks of their respective owners. The Toyota name, marks, designs and logos, as well as Toyota model names, are registered trademarks of Toyota Motor Corporation***Ad Management plugin by RedTyger
 
Copyright © 2020