After having a nice little collision with my Coastal bumper & X20 winch,
I am strongly considering adding a disconnect for safety, and an in-cab
on/off switch for convenience. I'm not doing in/out controls at this time.

Does the attached schematic (and I use that term very loosely) look right?
I tried a remote switch spliced into the flag connectors at the winch switch
and they both function the way I want, but I am not sure if I need the fuse?
I suppose it cannot hurt whatsoever, but less wiring is less wiring...
(Also why I am avoiding a solenoid cut-off and sticking with a Blue Sea 6006)
I know the switches don't turn each other off, but I plan on leaving the winch
switch off and mainly controlling things from the in-cab switch.


I have all the correct lugs, crimpers etc. so just wanted some confirmation
that this is the right set up for what I am after. Thanks for any insight!

Attached Images

 

Looks good to me. The fuse is a good idea. I was going to run the winch solenoid (on/off) from my switch pro, but didn't want to waste a position for the wireless remote. Now I have a switch on the side of my grill to turn the wireless on or off.

End of the day always use a main power disconnect that can handle the amps the winch pulls and keep it off if your not using it.

This is the part I'm concentrating on for safety/security's sake.
I think the BS switch is skirting the perfect min. requirements, but
it appears the 10K X20's max draw is only 415A, so I should be gtg.

Yes, the blue sea 6006 can handle 900a for 30 seconds, 500a for 5 mins and 300a continuous, with 4/0 wire lol. Same exact disconnect switch I use. All winches will have a spike when starting up and level out to a much lower amperage.

But yeah, that's a good way to control your solenoid from inside the cab.

Flaming River Big Switch 500 Battery Disconnect - Rotary Switch - Panel Mount - 500 amp - Lock Out Bracket - 12-24V