05-12-2024, 12:27 PM
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#1
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AC Question
I have an 02 4Runner that has some intermittent ac issues. When it’s working, it cools great. However, sometimes it won’t cool at all. Usually we can get it to work by turning everything off and on a few times. I am assuming the compressor is this issue, but not 100% sure. I wanted to see if I could confirm that’s the issue and if I replaced the compressor, wha else should I replace?
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05-12-2024, 02:12 PM
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#2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwkiss0
I have an 02 4Runner that has some intermittent ac issues. When it’s working, it cools great. However, sometimes it won’t cool at all. Usually we can get it to work by turning everything off and on a few times. I am assuming the compressor is this issue, but not 100% sure. I wanted to see if I could confirm that’s the issue and if I replaced the compressor, wha else should I replace?
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Spin the compressor it should spin freely. Check the resistance at the electrical connector it should be between 2,5 to 5 ohms. You can also energize the connector to see if it clicks.
Low refrigerant could also be an issue. Check ac relay etc.
The sight glass diagnosis fsm
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05-12-2024, 07:13 PM
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#3
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What are your outside temps?
Do you have manual or automatic climate control?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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05-12-2024, 08:53 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
What are your outside temps?
Do you have manual or automatic climate control?
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Outside temps are in the 70's. Manual climate control.
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05-12-2024, 08:55 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
Spin the compressor it should spin freely. Check the resistance at the electrical connector it should be between 2,5 to 5 ohms. You can also energize the connector to see if it clicks.
Low refrigerant could also be an issue. Check ac relay etc.
The sight glass diagnosis fsm
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Thank you. I will try these things out.
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05-13-2024, 04:50 PM
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#6
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@ jwkiss0
Your symptoms fall into the realm of filter/dryer end of life.
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05-13-2024, 06:36 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
@ jwkiss0
Your symptoms fall into the realm of filter/dryer end of life.
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What does the filter/drier do? Is any way to test it?
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05-13-2024, 06:42 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
@ jwkiss0
Your symptoms fall into the realm of filter/dryer end of life.
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What does the filter/drier do? Is any way to test it?
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05-13-2024, 11:44 PM
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I’d suggest first checking the refrigerant levels and the condition of the AC belts. Also, check the AC clutch relay and the pressure switches.
Look for leaks, especially around the compressor shaft seal and connections.
Besides the compressor replacement, I’d recommend changing the receiver-dryer or accumulator and O-rings to protect the new compressor from moisture and debris. Also, you can replace the orifice tube or expansion valve (depending on your system) and flush the whole system to remove any built-up contaminants.
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05-14-2024, 08:15 AM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwkiss0
What does the filter/drier do? Is any way to test it?
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No easy answer to T/S your problem, best advice download FSM start reading at AC-1.
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96RedRunner limited 4x4 5VZ auto not stock 374k miles totaled 2018.
2001 limited 4x4 5VZ auto work in progress not stock.
2011 Audi S5 Prestige 4.2 V8 6 spd. MT not stock.
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05-27-2024, 10:52 AM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
Spin the compressor it should spin freely. Check the resistance at the electrical connector it should be between 2,5 to 5 ohms. You can also energize the connector to see if it clicks.
Low refrigerant could also be an issue. Check ac relay etc.
The sight glass diagnosis fsm
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I used this chart and didn’t come up with anything. I took a few pictures and a video but can’t figure out how to post them. I was low on refrigerant again so I have a leak somewhere. Any suggestions on how to diagnose the leak? I use the AC Pro refrigerant to fill it up. Do they make one with dye to check for leaks? Is there a better solution?
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05-27-2024, 11:44 AM
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Seems to me that if you can get it to work by cycling through control settings, it kinda means the refrigerant circuit is OK (compressor, drier, evaporator, etc). It points to a problem of activation.
The control unit itself? Switch/solenoid for the compressor clutch? I just fixed issues with the HVAC control valve activation cable where the AC worked, but the heater would still be running.
Replacing cable for heater control valve
Edit: Just saw your post above. I hope you find the leak.
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05-27-2024, 12:47 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwkiss0
I use the AC Pro refrigerant to fill it up. Do they make one with dye to check for leaks? Is there a better solution?
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AC Pro does make one with dye.
There's also other R134a with dye available probably cheaper.
If you use the dye you can buy a UV flashlight which might help finding the leak.
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05-28-2024, 09:34 AM
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#14
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Does turning on the AC engage the compressor clutch, if no you likely have a leak, low refrigerant or bad pressure switch/clutch/wiring, test pressure switch buy jumping terminals, does ac clutch engage now, if yes you have a leak, usually it is the Evaporator under the dash, if so you will also need a proportioning valve and a receiver dryer, some pagg oil and 134a refrigerant after the system has been evacuated and dried under vacuum. could also be the condenser infront of the Rad among many other orings and schrader valves.
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Last edited by Malcolm99; 05-29-2024 at 01:06 AM.
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05-30-2024, 08:10 AM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwkiss0
I have an 02 4Runner that has some intermittent ac issues. When it’s working, it cools great. However, sometimes it won’t cool at all. Usually we can get it to work by turning everything off and on a few times. I am assuming the compressor is this issue, but not 100% sure. I wanted to see if I could confirm that’s the issue and if I replaced the compressor, wha else should I replace?
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If the system is capable of "cools great" then maybe the issue is the dash control unit - they flake out rather often - guy on ebay repairs for 2 bills - you must send yours in (he repairs poor soldering in known places).
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