front stabilizer bar link replacement procedure - Toyota 4Runner Forum

Previologist · 06-24-2024, 01:17 PM

FSM says to take the wheels off to do this, but in my clutch thread someone mentioned it should be done with wheels on the ground. I only need to replace both of the links, not replacing the bar or bushings (at least yet). Whats the correct (or easiest) way to get this done?

Endlessblockades · 06-24-2024, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Previologist

FSM says to take the wheels off to do this, but in my clutch thread someone mentioned it should be done with wheels on the ground. I only need to replace both of the links, not replacing the bar or bushings (at least yet). Whats the correct (or easiest) way to get this done?

Pretty sure i did this wheels on the ground - they weren't under any stress that I recall....

spartacus · 06-24-2024, 02:08 PM

If replacing both ends. Do the bottom nuts first, dont tighten em yet. Get both the top nuts started, then tighten them down. No need to raise the vehicle.

Offroad Alliance · 06-24-2024, 02:09 PM

can be done flat on the ground, wheels on the vehicle if you have the right tools. At level ground the sway bars will not be under any pressure and those should come right off. Might need a hammer to give a little tap tap tapparoo to loosen it from being seated into place....

phattyduck · 06-24-2024, 02:19 PM

Helpful for it to be up on ramps for easy clearance, but it can be on the ground too. Get all the fasteners started (on both sides) before tightening.

I'd actually say its easier with the suspension loaded rather than unloaded.

-Charlie

3bears · 06-26-2024, 10:47 AM

yep on the ground worked best for me, however have done them off the ground, but then when it hit the ground tightened all again

Previologist · 06-26-2024, 11:21 AM

By my estimation the end of the stab bar is about an inch higher than the length of the new link. Wondering if I will have to do something like jack up the lower arm to get it in.

But that's a future worry because I can't get the bottom of the old links off (the top ends rusted/broke off long ago). I think I will have to cut it off, which means I will need to buy something to cut it off.

GhostRing · 06-26-2024, 02:27 PM

What's happening with the bottom nuts? Are they spinning in place?
There is a square flat nearest the ball end you may need to get a wrench onto.

phattyduck · 06-26-2024, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Previologist

By my estimation the end of the stab bar is about an inch higher than the length of the new link. Wondering if I will have to do something like jack up the lower arm to get it in.

You should be replacing them in pairs - and that that point, you just rotate the bar in place. The front end is free to move up/down.

-Charlie

Previologist · 06-26-2024, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GhostRing

What's happening with the bottom nuts? Are they spinning in place?
There is a square flat nearest the ball end you may need to get a wrench onto.

Ah yes, I couldn't even see that and had to take the wheel off to get a good look at it. It looks like it may have had flats sides for a wrench at some point in its life, but they are indistinct now. Plus even my largest open end wrench (7/8") is too small to go around it. May have to cut it anyway

Previologist · 06-26-2024, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phattyduck

You should be replacing them in pairs - and that that point, you just rotate the bar in place. The front end is free to move up/down.

-Charlie

Yup, they are both shot so both are getting replaced...once I get them off. I noticed a little play in the bar but it will take some effort to rotate it back in place. It has probably been free of the links for quite some time...

I should replace the bushings too but I'm not, for now. I have way too much to get done and way too little money and time to do it all.

Previologist · 06-26-2024, 11:03 PM

Finally got the nut cut almost all the way off and was able to back it off. I couldn't even get a vice grips on that flat flange in back until the nut was loose. And yep, it is indeed a square with rounded corners. Must be a 21 or 23 mm, because my 19 won't go on it and that's my biggest metric open end. Will definitely be buying one to get the other one off.

Now if I can figure out where the bushings and bushing washers go I'll be in business. My top ends were completely gone so they gave no clues.

shadow247 · 06-27-2024, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Previologist

By my estimation the end of the stab bar is about an inch higher than the length of the new link. Wondering if I will have to do something like jack up the lower arm to get it in.

But that's a future worry because I can't get the bottom of the old links off (the top ends rusted/broke off long ago). I think I will have to cut it off, which means I will need to buy something to cut it off.

If you take BOTH off, you can just rotate the sway bar. Its easy enough to just turn the wheel to one side to get access.

Previologist · 06-27-2024, 09:11 AM

The tops of both links rusted/broke off years ago, based on their appearance. The bar may be somewhat reluctant to move because of old bushings, but it will move some.

Previologist · 06-28-2024, 11:51 AM

I bought a 23 mm wrench for that inner nut...it doesn't fit! I had to cut that one off too. That square nut thingie is a skooch bigger than 23 and there was really no room to grind it to size. Sure wasn't going to grind my new wrench lol

What is the proper torque for the upper iink nut? I am seeing only 16 inch-lbs for the upper and that seems off. I see 51 ft-lbs for lower

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