So in my quest to make my *THUNK* go away, I installed new TrakMotive C/V axles with extended travel, since I have a dumb amount of lift (for various dumb reasons), and they seemed to be the ticket.

To date, within the last couple years, and as a summer truck, less than 5K per year.

New LBJ's (OEM), new UCA's, new tie rod ends, LCA bushings checked and are 100% good (and thus, old, not replaced), caster cams fred up and a 100% good to go 4 wheel alignment, new wheels, tires, and the thing drives GREAT!

Still clunks when really pushed in a full extension situation, any thoughs appreciated, but that's not my question.

These TrakMotives are WAY more robust than the stock level (recently replaced) axles.

Would the average non tund in person, actualy notice the swap?

Cause I swear the front end feels more planted, stable, solid in cornering etc.

Is that to be expected or am I imagining this?

New bump stops too?

Sway bar and associated linkage y/n?

CV Axles shouldn't/don't effect stability. I have a clunk that shows up every 4 years, its always the ES bushings on the sway bar to frame, the little bit of corrosion on the bar wears the bushings out, I really need a new sway bar and maybe OEM bushings.

so with your lift , did you install different sway bar end links and do a rear sway relocationn, especially if you have a locker

Hey folks, thanks.

I'm in late stage FAFO mode, so bear with me.

3Bears, no, I didn't. The 2 3/4" lift blocks that came after the OME 2" suspension lift, immediately exploded my original OEM C/V boots, so my shop tossed in fresh *replacement grade* axles.

It was in this couple week time period that I noted the clunk, I blamed the axles since my situation fit the need for the telescoping versions.

I've now learned that some folks just remove the sway bar, while others do, I think, what ypu're talking about?

My shop did address those sway bar ends as they too, looked awful, post lift blocks.

I plan on removing the blocks, errr, putting in the shortest one I can to do the actual leveling I wanted originally, before the super tall ones got installed by someone I shouldn't have had work on it.



To the sway bar comments at large:

Thank you, your targeted responses are making me think this is probaby the next area to address.

If you don't mind? Is there simply an extension/lengthening "kit" or whole new "extended travel" sway bar set up that exists? Or do enough folks just remove them that I should just do that? She's 90% road, so handling in those conditions is something I can't afford to lose. Just not sure how much impact they truly have.


Jgue467, no? This isn't always happening at full to the stops turning times. Is that your thinking about them making noise??



Again, thanks all, I'm so close to getting this thing dialed in, I'm super excited.

New roof rack coming to properly support the new to me Thule Tepui tent I just got a ridiculous deal on.

3rd Gen 4Runner Roof Rack | 1996-2002 4Runner | Sherpa Equipment Co.

Attached Images

 

You really shouldn't level your lift. You want some rake so that when you put a load in the rear, the ass end isn't dragging. That makes for dangerous handling. Also, don't go above 2.5" lift in the front. You run out of droop and your off-road performance suffers. When you put in new UCAs, did you put in new upper ball joints? Did you install aftermarket, upgraded UCAs like the JBA or SPC?

@Mendoncyclesmith looks sweet you've a solid plan looks good!
Do not delete sway bars adding weight up high you'll need them.
Check out this link get length appropriate for your lift. A call would clarify things.
Heim Joint Sway Bar Links
– Overland Custom Design
With as much lift as you have, you're going to have to think out side the box to eliminate the clunks it a work in progress.
If you have a rear E-locker with lift sway bar can hit locker motor cover you need the kit to eliminate this. Sonoran Steel sells the fix. It a easy fix to make yourself if mechanically inclined.

There is always the option for anti rock sway bars.........if you can fit them of course lol.

Also might want to look at limit straps for the front. I have to do that now as I just installed extended travel radflos and the cv's bind badly at full droop sigh. Wish rcv made manual hub cv's.

Yes, limit straps are in the picture need them myself at full droop Tundra 6112's
Anti-rock is easy for rear, front have yet to figure out how to make it work.

Thanks all!

Bear with me, as I want to address several comments in one post.

Zhehan: Good info, thanks. I didn't intend for the front lift, and have plans to remove it all, or at least get it back down to a proper amount. Have an appt with an off road shop to discuss a full attack plan that I can save up for and implement next summer.

Your saying that due to the tent etc adding rearward biased weight that leaving the rear taller than the front, is valuable? Just making sure I understand. The entire lift block situation I have is from early learning, please don't think it's my intended end point. Once I meet with this guy, my hope if to have all components dropped as needed, raised as needed, and done so in a manner that is truly off road correct. I didn't want a stupid high truck, I wanted a stupid capable one!

And yes, JBA's in front, with the new upper ball joints included. They really helped with tire clearance and full alignment too, might I add.


96RedRunner, awesome, thanks, I've not found any realisitic input on the handling change from the sway bar deletion, so your comment is super helpful, hadn't considered how the higher weight balance would need some extra helpers for stability down lower. I do not have any lockers, front or rear, but would like to do manual hubs in front at some point.

I'll look into those ends. Question? The TrakMotives maintain full OEM functionality regardless of lift or not. Will these ends create problems if I move downward to a lesser leveling kit in the front end? Are they equally at home with stock as they are with lift? Just don't want to trip over my own feet now that I'm finally closing in on things working right. May wait till after my shop appt....




Now as for the rest of the comments. I guess I'm reading again, Never heard of limit straps, or anti rock sway bars, more stuff to fugure out how it fits into the equation!

Edit:

Forgot to mention, I figured out the root of my impression that it feels more "solid" with the TrakMotives. Prior to them, any sort of rough section, a few potholes, crossing a culvert, rough dirt road etc. it had a distinct shuddering feeling like the wheels weren't "quite" fully connected to the steering. Also gave it this vague steering feel, a bit of slop on the steering wheel that seemed to be the same slp that allowed the whels to go free form on rough stuff. All gone now. Love it!!

I think it was already said on this thread, but axles have no bearing on anything with the suspension (unless the factory parts were binding). If the truck feels better after the axle install, it means something else was loose or installed wrong that was fixed as part of the axle install.

-Charlie

Yes, you should leave the rear of the vehicle 0.5-1" higher than the front, unloaded. It's going to depend on the rear springs and shocks you go with and your typical loads how much rake is ideal for you. But no more than 1" of rake would be best, in my opinion and experience.

Stock sway bars are great to have if you drive your rig (like the lil buggy it is) on the asphalt from time to time. These things handle pretty great all things considered. I throw mine mine into tight inside corners at speed in the maze of overhead freeways connectors like it's a video game.

I think one thing that may need to addressed is - if you are lowering the vehicle, the CVs should be fine,
but the JBA arms could create too much caster as you approach factory height?
They state 1-3.5" lift compatibility, but something to be mindful of I suppose.

You probably don't need to worry about the high-zoot parts just yet, as a
decent refresh of the anti-sway bar bushings and/or links should keep things
planted. You may find if the ride height with everything installed is acceptable,
a more robust set of shocks will help properly control the CoG changes.