08-15-2024, 02:03 PM
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#1
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Heater Valve Leaking
I got back home and found dried coolant (I told my parents to drive it) on what I believe is the heater valve?
I don't know if it's the valve or the hose clamp, but I'm going to replace the old valve before it gets worse. Should I go OEM for this part? To change it will I have to partially drain the coolant?
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08-15-2024, 02:41 PM
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#2
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I'd go oem, as it has lasted that long already. It could also be the connecting hoses weaping. You can use hose clamps to clamp the hoses so coolant won't leak out, swap out the valve, when done take off the clamps and your in business. Burping the system is recommend after that though.
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08-15-2024, 03:01 PM
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#3
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96RedRunner limited 4x4 5VZ auto not stock 374k miles totaled 2018.
2001 limited 4x4 5VZ auto work in progress not stock.
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08-16-2024, 07:17 AM
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#4
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I've gone thru 4 OEM heater valves in 200k of owning my '01.
Its got an original (never opened) AC - original rear brake seals - original alot of things yet that part fails and fails - weird.
Its the highest point on the cooling system - just remove it and replace - no draining needed.
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08-16-2024, 09:21 AM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgue467
I've gone thru 4 OEM heater valves in 200k of owning my '01.
Its got an original (never opened) AC.
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Fails maybe use related maybe, we live same climate 374k 18 yrs 96Red, 01 231k 7 yrs.
both original I function heat weekly old habit like E-brake.
Original AC be knocking on wood, Filter/dryer in the fubar stage of service life.
Desiccant cartridge breaks up complete system is toast, $25 part vs $1600 in 2012 dollars.
You're at the milage I'd change it.
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96RedRunner limited 4x4 5VZ auto not stock 374k miles totaled 2018.
2001 limited 4x4 5VZ auto work in progress not stock.
2011 Audi S5 Prestige 4.2 V8 6 spd. MT not stock.
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08-16-2024, 10:57 AM
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#6
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I have not changed one, but have an oem on shelf and plan to do as preventative soon. I think I have read in other threads that there is another small plastic pipe near the valve that can be brittle and break as well when your doing the swap out of the valve
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08-16-2024, 01:53 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears
I have not changed one, but have an oem on shelf and plan to do as preventative soon. I think I have read in other threads that there is another small plastic pipe near the valve that can be brittle and break as well when your doing the swap out of the valve
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Yes, be very careful pulling hoses off - even with the correct tool.
My hoses survived, but a chunk off the valve stayed in the firewall hose.
Glad I caught it before reassembly!
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08-16-2024, 06:00 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
Fails maybe use related maybe, we live same climate 374k 18 yrs 96Red, 01 231k 7 yrs.
both original I function heat weekly old habit like E-brake.
Original AC be knocking on wood, Filter/dryer in the fubar stage of service life.
Desiccant cartridge breaks up complete system is toast, $25 part vs $1600 in 2012 dollars.
You're at the milage I'd change it.
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Very interesting. Of course in central texas I Need heat maybe once or twice in Nov-Dec and then some in Jan-feb and then all AC. So that may explain that.
So to replace dryer system has to be evacuated and recharged - correct?
It has always blown snowballs - best AC of any vehicle I've ever owned so I'd like to keep it that way - thanks for passing that info along!
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2001 Limited 4WD - 350+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
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08-17-2024, 08:44 AM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgue467
So to replace dryer system has to be evacuated and recharged - correct
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Correct. Easy DIY job using equipment rented at parts store, time of year shop repair comes with guaranty. 
Hi-jacking thread DM me for some finer diy details you want em.
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96RedRunner limited 4x4 5VZ auto not stock 374k miles totaled 2018.
2001 limited 4x4 5VZ auto work in progress not stock.
2011 Audi S5 Prestige 4.2 V8 6 spd. MT not stock.
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08-17-2024, 10:10 AM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgue467
Very interesting. Of course in central texas I Need heat maybe once or twice in Nov-Dec and then some in Jan-feb and then all AC. So that may explain that.
So to replace dryer system has to be evacuated and recharged - correct?
It has always blown snowballs - best AC of any vehicle I've ever owned so I'd like to keep it that way - thanks for passing that info along!
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funny im just the opposite. I maybe needed ac once or twice a year....maybe a hot year for a week. Used so little that I disconnected the belt. its such a dry cold here that dont need the ac part to defrost windows.
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2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
2001 SR-5... bought 11/20..sold 6/21....
2000 SR-5 moded, lifted, e locker, other cool stuff, totaled 10/20
2002 tundra ac v8 4wd
1969 kharmann ghia
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08-17-2024, 11:14 AM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears
I think I have read in other threads that there is another small plastic pipe near the valve that can be brittle and break as well when your doing the swap out of the valve
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happened to me >_<. the nipple on my valve broke off while driving and dumped my coolant.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgue467
So to replace dryer system has to be evacuated and recharged - correct?
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Just unbolt the old one and pop in the new one then replace any coolant that may have dropped before or during the install, burp/bleed, and done.
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08-18-2024, 11:27 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJRodriguez88
Just unbolt the old one and pop in the new one then replace any coolant that may have dropped before or during the install, burp/bleed, and done.
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Thread hijack talking AC filter/drier Coolant in AC system not good idea.
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96RedRunner limited 4x4 5VZ auto not stock 374k miles totaled 2018.
2001 limited 4x4 5VZ auto work in progress not stock.
2011 Audi S5 Prestige 4.2 V8 6 spd. MT not stock.
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