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Old 08-17-2024, 09:27 PM #1
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Crank no start after timing belt

I am trying to replace my timing belt in my 1998 limited 3.4l.

The first time I put it back together I didn't realize i had to have the cr mark in the timing belt lined up with the notch on the crank key, also I crimped the cam position sensor in between the fan bracket, and the wires were split and hard like it was heated. I replaced that with an ntk sensor.

I also replaced my crank position sensor with a denso one, because the plastic basically crumbled in my hand trying to remove it.

On my second attempt to put it back together the middle of my harmonic balancer broke off when I tried to crank the engine, so I replaced that with one from rock auto.

A couple weeks before I started this job I replaced my $20 fuel pump with a denso and it worked flawlessly.

With everything back together it still won't start, it cranks around 165rpm according to my obd2 reader. I read on this forum you need 250rpm to start it.

I am getting spark and can start it for a few seconds with starting fluid(engine sounds way better than before I did the timing belt)

I for some reason am not getting fuel, I opened the line before the fuel filter and cranked the engine and nothing came out.

I have checked fuses and swapped efi relay with pwr outlet relay and swapped cor relay with tail relay.

Any input on what to check next is appreciated.



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Old 08-18-2024, 10:38 AM #2
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Sounds like the ECU isn't seeing the rotation of the CAM and Crank sensor as it won't pump fuel until it sees crank/cam rotation, there is no priming the fuel system like a GM, but you could test the fuel pump without cranking the engine to check that, that should narrow it down to needing either Cam or crank sensor, personally I would replace them both with OEM to insure you got the right parts and avoid wasting time as they are not easy to get to.
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Old 08-18-2024, 11:54 AM #3
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Also make sure both sensors are plugged in too. Might be something as simple as that. If everything is good, the air gap might be to big causing the sensors to not pick up the signal (out of spec sensors).
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Old 08-18-2024, 03:40 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2TH4IST View Post
Also make sure both sensors are plugged in too. Might be something as simple as that. If everything is good, the air gap might be to big causing the sensors to not pick up the signal (out of spec sensors).
Would this look like an out of spec sensor, it has a little scratch on it from the tooth on the camshaft pulley.

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Old 08-18-2024, 05:28 PM #5
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Hmm there should be no contact between the sensor and trigger nub. But other then that it looks OK. It will be hard to recheck the crank sensor as you'll need to remove the damper, belts and tb cover.

Did you happen to recheck timing of the pulleys (both cams, and crank)? It may have jumped time.
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Old 08-18-2024, 07:06 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2TH4IST View Post
Hmm there should be no contact between the sensor and trigger nub. But other then that it looks OK. It will be hard to recheck the crank sensor as you'll need to remove the damper, belts and tb cover.

Did you happen to recheck timing of the pulleys (both cams, and crank)? It may have jumped time.
The pics I have in my first post are from last night when I tore it down to check timing again, crank looked like it was off when peeking through the fan bracket.
When torn down it looks good.

The crank sensor is a brand new denso, it shows 165rpm when cranking
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Old 08-18-2024, 07:39 PM #7
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Hmmm. The timing looks fine then. Can you pop the fuel pump access cover and have someone crank the engine and you listen to see if the pump turn on? Also, when it cranks over is it normal speed or does it crank slowly. Any obd2 codes?
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Old 08-18-2024, 07:53 PM #8
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Quote:
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Hmmm. The timing looks fine then. Can you pop the fuel pump access cover and have someone crank the engine and you listen to see if the pump turn on? Also, when it cranks over is it normal speed or does it crank slowly. Any obd2 codes?

Unfortunately I'm working alone, when it cranks it sounds normal.
I started it with starter fluid a few times to try get a code and couldn't get it to throw one(only ran for 2 seconds)

But it sounded good when it was running.

I'm going to jump the fuel pump with my battery as per the fsm suggestion and see if it works
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Old 08-18-2024, 09:32 PM #9
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Jump it and see if you can start the 4runner. If so then you have a direction to look.
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Old 08-18-2024, 10:07 PM #10
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Jump it and see if you can start the 4runner. If so then you have a direction to look.
So I jumped it at the 2 pins which I beleive are correct according to the fsm, and got nothing. My fuel line is disconnected before the filter and I heard and saw no fuel come out

I did try jump my cheapo pump and it worked fine

Could my denso pump have failed or been faulty? Or maybe the wiring in the fuel sending unit came loose?

I will drop tank and inspect tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure I've narrowed it down.


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Old 08-19-2024, 12:38 AM #11
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It's a possibility the new pump crapped out. It could also be the wire internally in the tank that failed.

Maybe try giving the tank a solid hit to see if the pump got stuck, jar it free. Like you do with a bum starter. Otherwise you got to drop the tank.
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Old 08-21-2024, 02:52 PM #12
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I know your investigating the fuel pump rn but if you still can take a look at the crank pulley cog that the TB sits on I would look to make sure it has all the teeth on the back still. Just did this job and broke one of the teeth trying to get it off. Was going to reassemble until I realized it wouldn’t communicate with the crank sensor. If you can get to just peek at it from the top you could rotate it using a ratchet and make sure none of the teeth are broken with Pugh having to remove the cams or the belt. Just a thought! Hope you get it running!
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Old 08-26-2024, 08:54 PM #13
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I know your investigating the fuel pump rn but if you still can take a look at the crank pulley cog that the TB sits on I would look to make sure it has all the teeth on the back still. Just did this job and broke one of the teeth trying to get it off. Was going to reassemble until I realized it wouldn’t communicate with the crank sensor. If you can get to just peek at it from the top you could rotate it using a ratchet and make sure none of the teeth are broken with Pugh having to remove the cams or the belt. Just a thought! Hope you get it running!
Thanks for the help, but I did narrow it down to the wire on the fuel sending unit, the wires were put in backwards and not being retained on the clip.not sure how this came loose after doing the timing belt job.

I dropped tank and flipped the wires around and then realized I forgot to put the rubber boot that holds the fuel pump in to the sending unit back on, so I gotta drop tank again lol.

Once I throw the front end together and drop that tank again I'm sure it's gonna run.



On a side not does anyone know what I could put in the connectors to ensure the wires do not slide out again, I was thinking hot glue or rtv
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Old 08-27-2024, 12:40 AM #14
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Glade you found the issue. Hmmm well not many things survive inside fuel.

Maybe get a new fuel pump connector and hook it up to the existing wiring using butt connectors. Is it the fuel pump side or the bracket side it came loose from? Here is your fuel pump side:

Connector

Here is a list of in tank harnesses for the fuel pump. Didn't find anything for a 3rd gen but the tacoma one part number 232370c010 looks promising and it's cheap too 3rd part on link below.

Here is the list

Fuel pump harnesses
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Last edited by 2TH4IST; 08-27-2024 at 01:38 AM.
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