I've been driving my 1998 as a DD for a few years now, and I guess I've just become accustomed to the crappy ride, or I assumed it was "cause it drives like a truck..." or it's the atrocious Louisiana roads, which will seriously test your stamina.

Anyway, with my kid getting ready to start driving and probably taking this one off my hands I thought I'd take a look under the front end to see what I'd need to do to make it ride a little better.

I now realize that part of the problem is probably the need to replace most of the steering and suspension.

Anyway, I'd appreciate any suggestions as to exactly what I need to replace (LBJ's first - I do know that), but in what order, and "if you have this off, you might as well change this as well."

I have also recently noticed a KLUNK (or shift of something) when I make a 190 degree turn from a stop (u-turn), or when going around a slight turn at about 20 mph. Something under the truck is shifting as I turn.

Here are a couple of videos I made today:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9JmTzdSWnU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-meT7uzBhDA

I appreciate any advice you give. Thanks!

I'd say for sure start with the lower ball joints first. Then move to refreshing the front coil overs and rear springs and shocks. That should help the ride out quite a bit.

^^ this. In addition, outer tie rods and brakes (preferably on both ends). Wouldn't hurt to check the UBJ either. Those are the most important things and basically in the name of safety first.

After that you can worry about luxuries like new bushings.

My opinion on importance / safety order:

Front:
- Lower ball joints (OEM only) if they haven't been done in the last 100k miles or so
- Front shocks (use QUALITY parts here). Front springs rarely sag, you might need new top bushings/isolators.
- Tie rods, steering rack mounts, swaybar links/bushings, etc.
- Upper and lower control arm bushings

Rear:
- Springs (if the rear sits below 20" fender lip to hub center)
- Shocks (quality parts, again)
- Swaybar links/bushings
- Control arm bushings

Start at the top, work your way down... stop when it is driving well enough for your needs. You should also make sure your tires at the right pressure (depends on tire type - don't just go by the door sticker) - look up the 'chalk test' if you have AT/MT tires.

-Charlie

I’ve had the clunk when turning in other vehicles end up being lower control arm bushings

Thanks for this breakdown, Charlie. It makes it very clear.

- Need to replace LBJ.
- Any recommendations on shocks - are the OEM worth it for daily driving?
- 10-4 on the springs. The rear is between 20" & 21", so I think I'm ok for now.
- Concerning swaybars/control arms/tie rods/steering rack mounts - I probably need links and bushings on all these (all the rubber looks dried out). Do these parts generally not fail on their own?

Thanks! I'll add this to the list and take a look this weekend.

OEM shocks are good for a daily driver, as is KYB and Bilstein 4600. (check RockAuto for good prices). Do NOT get Monroe, FCS, Rancho, etc.

All the other parts (tie rods, bushings, etc.) are not safety hazards (other than lower ball joints). Also, when you start replacing those components, you will need an alignment (you don't need that for just F/R shocks and lower ball joints). If you are doing this DIY, then you can get the shocks and ball joints done then while you are in there look for play, etc. in all the other components down there and decide on the next course of action.

Depending on how it has been driven, you might already be happy with things at that point.

-Charlie