with all the mods you have done...listed...your still running stock 3rd gen rotors and calipers ?

Yes. Truck stops just fine.

EDIT: To add to this, I didn't need to do brakes on this truck until 147,000+ miles. This was with 33" tires and lots of wheeling for years. I didn't see a need to upgrade.

I have a question about the toe plates. I see alot of good companies selling these but none of them are long enough to match larger tires. To get an accurate toe setting for a 37" tire don't you need a 37"+ tow plate, or am I missing something? If you want 1/8" tow and measure with a 30" plate, I would think it would be off a fair bit at 37".

My experience is all with solid axle trucks, so the IFS stuff is new to me. I'm pleased to see it can be aligned at home.

These types of Toe plates require you to remove the wheels. Put the front of the truck on jack stands. Let the suspension droop. Make sure the truck is level front to back and side to side. Once you've done that, mount the plates to the hub. You don't need to be at ride height to set Toe. Camber can be done without being at ride height as well, but it's better to do those measurements and adjustments with the tires on the ground. Caster needs to be measured and set with tires on the ground.

Whoa there, bump steer is a thing, and camber changes with suspension bump/droop when you have unequal length non parallel a-arms. I would only adjust suspension settings at ride height on an IFS vehicle. You can set toe on a solid axle up in the air though...

-Charlie

Yes, point taken.

I was not recommending Camber be adjusted with the wheels off. I was just saying there are ways to do this, involving some pre and post measurements of ride height vs @ droop. I adjusted my Camber on the ground. I adjusted the Toe with the suspension at droop, including centering the steering wheel. All of that is on spec now. It wasn't when I started.

EDIT: If Toe changed as the suspension cycled on this type of IFS, you'd have some WEIRD tire wear. It doesn't change since that adjustment is controlled by the Outer Tie Rod, not the Alignment Cams. I can't see a change in the Toe when adjusting Camber on this particular vehicle. Mind you, I'm making small changes, but that's my experience.

Camber is pretty well known to vary with travel on most IFS systems. If the camber changes, toe changes with it.

It's what has kept me from doing a full alignment in my driveway. It needs vehicle weight to make all adjustments. Only option would be hub stands. Those are pricy, if they exist for the 4r. Toe is always adjusted last. Toe does move during suspension travel, it's a tiny amount but it does move.

so yes maybe not perfect...but I did ask...will these plates clear a tbu caliper...so i can get near enough to take to a shop to fine tune

There is a different style of toe plate that allows you to leave the wheels on. More of a solid plate with stand-off studs that are adjustable.

Doesn't take much. A 4-foot level along the tire to eyball to the rear axle will get you pretty close. You can roll forward and back after each adjustment to remove pre-load on things instead of using slip plates. This was on my slanted driveway, 100% by eye (before numbers):



Start with "max caster" (lower ball joint full forward) and adjust to get camber in spec, then set toe. I'd be happy to drive on the above 'before' alignment a few hundred miles before getting to a shop to let the suspension settle in.

Here's an FSM page for settings at stock height for reference:


The negative camber happened since I am so used to looking at car alignments with 1-2* of negative camber...

-Charlie