Planning on some Bilstein 5100s with OME springs. I'm seeing different information everywhere and I've contacted two of the companies that gave me varying information.

I'm wanting a 2" lift or thereabouts. I have an ARB offroad bumper which adds weight. Also gonna add a winch soon. Nothing modded in the back.

My first thought was 881/890 for the combination. One place said I should do 883/890 bc 881 would be too soft. They said 881/906 for a shorter 1-1.5" lift leveled off.
The other place said 881/906 bc the lack of weight in the back would make it 2.5" high.

Anyone here with a similar setup have insight on this?

Been a few years but I believe 881/906 with 5100s on the bottom perch results in a 2" lift more or less. This combo was supposed to provide a middle of the spectrum amount of support for extra weight. This is what I'm running, I'm pretty sure LOL. It was one of the first mods I did and got the package on a Black Friday deal from Wheeler's and pretty much just went with what I read in a suspension thread for newbies here. Still a noob but I would have looked into other options given another chance but I have no real complaints. I often carry a floor jack and a bunch of gear in the back and have a plate front bumper and a full set of heavy 4XI skids and some sliders, etc. It feels planted but not saggy. It's kinda harsh at speed on fire roads to be honest....

That would be my expectation. A 1.5-2" lift in the front and 2" in the rear puts the suspension in a pretty good spot in the available travel and keeps it easy to align and streetable.

I am still running stock 4WD front springs with 5100s and have a winch, bumper and skids. I WANT the front a bit soft to get as much flex/articulation up there as possible. I think I'm on the third snap ring location with a small top plate spacer and the front is right under 2" lift. (the spacer allows a bit more droop travel) Rear has 906's with 10mm trim packers and is just over 2" lift. I generally have about 40 lbs of stuff in the back, but it handles extra load just fine.

-Charlie

harsh how on fire roads? I'm expecting this suspension to be more responsive and absorb shock, not make things harder. I bounce all over the place on forest roads but that's because it's 22 years old!

I should have said washboard fire roads which is probably harsh for most but the plushest setups. The 5100/OME mix seems capable enough on trails and slower speeds over actual terrain or forest roads with real dirt. I'm not surprised that street potholes are a sharper jolt when not aired down than with squishy worn out stock suspension. A small trade off. I wanted a more affordable plug and play setup rather than something rebuildable and I've been happy enough. When they wear out I'll dig deeper into more modern tunable offerings. Better bumpstops are a good idea too. Is it me or did the price of those go up a lot in 4 years or was I just Covidlanding?

well i don't want to deal with spring compressors so the lowest pre-assembled i'm seeing is 950....adding a diff drop, then panhard correction to not strain the other parts, plus the future winch....makes me think my suspensions fine haha

just saw that wheelers has an eibach setup for 844 so i guess now i'll throw that into the decision ring

Pre-assembled is a ripoff, No spring compressors needed for on vehicle strut assembly simple and safe.
Been doing it 10-15 yrs. Tundra 5100's 6112's OME and others floor jack and weight of vehicle.

881/890 combo w/struts shocks OME sells it as 3" lift kit, more like 2.5". My $.0000002.
881's can handle extra weight go with 9.5k synthetic rope winch 5100's adjustability tweak ride.
890's give 3" with trim packers ride good stock weight little weight better, handle 880#'s cargo area

My sentiment, early 2020 Tundra 6112's LC 5160's 890's plasticguys bumps where I stopped,
Kings next stop. Without looking oh hell yea they up on price.

i pulled the trigger on the eibachs. that price was basically what others unassembled was. I've only swapped suspensions before with spring compressors and I'd rather not experiment otherwise right now lol.

From what i saw the eibachs seem to have a slightly more plush ride than the Bilsteins but not as soft as Fox. So something in the middle was preferable. With just 2" lift, I opted for the diff drop kit but who knows if I'll actually put it in.

Now i'm also considering swapping all the bushings from everything to firm things up.

Nice. I find my black springs slightly boring. I pulled my diff drop because I tore 2 more boots with it installed. I now have the TrakMotiv/NAPA HD XL and am happy. I have a used Toytec kit, used but with original box and install sheet if anyone wants it $20 shipped.

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so you tore it with the diff drop, interesting. Maybe the boot itself just sucks. I saw a video comparing this and the community is split on fact vs myth. If in doubt, just change the boot itself to the extended length style. It shouldn't wear the CV itself more, just the boot from what I've read.

I agree, but 'just changing the boot' is a greasy F'n mess. I'm not doing trails that should require carrying a backup axle (but I have the tools to do it onboard). I could buy a 3rd HD axle to carry but I'm done with the OEM spec ones. If I break an axle I can pull it out and 2WD home. But to clarify: yes, the boots on the 'OEM reman' axles Toyota has sold recently tore happily and quickly with the DD installed with a mild 2" lift. Plus the TrakMotive axles from, say, Rock Auto are a lot cheaper than the Toyota-stickered ones.

interesting. good feedback and tip on the CV! I drive on hunting/forest trails and I hope I don't snap a CV bc i don't go out there with my auto tools!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47aat1tc6zw

this is the video i watched that makes me not want the drop now. i might try to contact them to cancel that addition on the order