When do y'all recommend going through a full bushing replacement? About to hit 200k on my 3rd gen and wondering if it's time

Oh I'm VERY familiar with the channel lol I use it all the time. Great job. I ended up finding good ebay deals on OEM. So I got OEM UCA, LCA, front and rear, UBJ, cam bolts/sleeves, then I got the ES sway bar mounts and trailing arm bushings.
It's hard to find the 2nd gen sway bar links too (bc I'm lifting 2"). I went with Moog. hopefully it lasts although I highly doubt it will.

You're due if you've never replaced anything. Like, way overdue.

These 2nd Gen T4R rear end links seem to hold up: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...-4runner?pos=0

Hope this helps

Cheers

mine is at 233k and I bought it with 125k. No idea on if these bushings were done before then.

How much of a DIY is this/how does the cost compare to a shop?

haha! just ribbing ya'

between all of us, we'll get the answers somehow! ;)

Shops my area done lost their minds $3k+- plus parts easy number to hit for all.

200k+- mi virgin location matters. Cams/bolts Rack pressure line fitting have eaten better
part of day to get to bushings on southern truck sawzal was needed. First time diy schedule
a weekend/looonng day for frontend. PBblaster for days before.
Links and Sways long day doable. Been my experience.

Seen some at that milage a visual all it took to Yea those need changing.

a shop near me told me 10 hours so about 1400 bucks. I've seen videos on these and if anything the LCA might give me a headache. I'm doing shocks too so maybe all at once

I installed Whiteline LCA bushings and used this method: Replace Toyota Lower control arm bushings-SPC Alignment

Mine were seized. Yours may not be, but the bushing removal method still applies. It was fairly painless. I broke 2x 3/16" drill bits, so make sure you have some spares. I used the simple hammer and chisel method to drive out the split bushings. No power tools for that. They came out easily once the core was removed and the sleeve was cut. I think this method is better than the heat method.

You do need a Sawzall, some metal cutting blades and a beefy bench vice for the basic service. You might need the Sawzall to remove the arms/alignment cams if they're seized. I already owned a Sawzall, but I borrowed a ball joint press kit from O'Reilly's to install the bushings.

Hope this is useful information.

Cheers

I have a shop press and if that doesn't work the bottle jacks always an option like how mtbtim did in his video. Torch and press so no breaking bits or risk of cutting the inside of the sleeve

The sawzall, hammer and chisel method works better than the press method recommended in the FSM tbh. I just used the bottle jack to tear out the center sleeve of the bushing.

This is a long job, so I ended up buying used control arms to minimize downtime.

really, even with torching/pressing? that seems like it would be fast

Once you cut that inner sleeve it weakens and comes out easy. No heat involved, nor any potential projectiles from pressing. Plus the bearing splitter from the FSM method requires chiseling that lip on the bushing. I flattened the hell out of it for the bearing splitter to have meat to grab onto, and it still slipped off and broke the lip of the splitter. My second time around went way quicker with no press work involved. Maybe you'll have better luck with the press than me though.