So I finished the head gaskets on our 2002 SR5 Sport yesterday. It seems to be better than ever and a very tough lesson for me to learn not using Toyota OEM parts for a major repair.

In any event I was running the truck after the repair and watching all the indicators on the dash etc. I noticed that the battery light was very dimly lit and would just stay that way regardless of rpm’s? I got out the Fluke 88 and checked the alternator output and it read 14.2-14.4 VDC consistently. So how does the battery light function? I haven’t yet dove into the FSM and was hoping someone here might be able to point me in the direction of what might be going on?

The truck definitely needs a new battery but when I was at Napa and asked how much it was for a new battery the guy told me $200………. It’s been a while since I bought a battery so I was hit with serious sticker shock and decided to hold off on the battery temporarily. So where is a good place to get a decent battery at a reasonable price or is that a pipe dream? If I have to spend that much I’m leaning towards just spending a little more and getting an Optima or similar high performance battery.

A little less shocking....
Robot or human?

What is the overnight first thing before starting in the morning voltage of the batt? Cables good and tight?

The premium Optima batteries aren’t worth it anymore from what I read. Most of the battery brands like EverStart, DieHard, Duralast, Interstate, etc. are made by 2 companies: Johnson Controls and East Penn. The OEMs might be different, but in general they are basically the same because they come from the same place.

Project Farm did a comparison years ago and there wasn’t a big difference between price. What matters is that you get the newest made battery you can and don’t let it discharge completely.

there are several grounds and I believe there is one that goes from pass side head or near head to firewall. Maybe that one is missed

Well I appreciate the advice very much. I read something online I think it was from this forum about LED dash lights being the culprit. So I pulled the cluster and checked the battery light bulb and sure enough it had one of the new LED’s I bought in it. So I swapped it out for the original incandescent bulb and no more dimly lit battery light. Go figure??? The 4Runner does still need a battery so tomorrow I’m going to go to Walmart (something I almost never do) and pickup their Everstart AGM battery for $180 with a 4 year free replacement warranty.

Costco also has decent battery prices on Lead Acid and AGM.

That's another issue I seen with LED bulbs. I think there is really only a handful of battery mfg left. 5 or so, the rest just throw their brand on them. Not sure how many do AGM.

I only use LED in the doom lights, possibly 2 of the 3 brake lights and backup lights that about it. I only do that so the rear lights are brighter. Sadly many circuits seem to not play well with LEDS in these rigs. Headlights you have to use a resister led bulb or a resister so your high beam indicator works. Led in all 3 brakes lights interfere with I think cruise (not 100% on that one) Lots of people change them out then start having bizarre issues. I am glad if my lights just work...LOL

LED in the 3rd brake light will cause the abs light to come on. It senses a open circuit as if a bulb is out.

I have this same issue with my switch pro dimming function. I used the parking light circuit to activate it, but as I have led's all around it leaves 5-7 volts on the circuit and then activates the dimming function. It's a PITA to deal with, but they work oh so good.