Hello all:

I have had similar issues as to those previously described. My spare key, the main key I use, is slightly bent and after years of use have made the ignition and driver's door lock difficult to use. If I use the original key it works, but with the same degree of difficulty. The spare key no longer works in the glove box because it is bent. On a side note, my back window lock was punched out by someone and has needed replaced for a couple years.

This said, I am looking to order and replace the entire set. I looked at prices and found competitive prices at Toyotapartsoverstock.com.

My main question is with the part number. I see two listings for the cylinder lock set, both 69503. However the prices are different, $333 and $293 respectively. I see nothing different aside from the sublisting of assemblies. The first set lists RZN18# and VZN18#. The second set listing shows the previously mentioned two also it show SR5B, SR5V.

Can someone explain to me the difference between the two lock sets? I want to ensure I order the correct set.

Appreciate it.

Enjoy your day,

Kyle

I have a question about this same issue. I just purchased a 2000 Limited and it starts fine but if I take the key out and then put it back in the ignition and try to start, its hope and pray and jiggle, jiggle and shake and hope it turns over. When I looked it up on Toyotaoverstockparts, they list a cylinder W/O tilt wheel, but mine has a tilt wheel. So, I'm not sure what part number to order. Thanks in advance for any advice. Looks like I will be spending a lot of time on this forum.

Glad to see there is a somewhat simple repair. So annoying to have this happen in public. The only thing that worked for me was to insert, try turning and remove the key multiple times until it worked.

I have had this issue in every vehicle I have owned. Its the pressure on the lock, but after time I guess I could see it wearing out, but a little jiggle, take the weight off the lock by moving the steering and always started up.

I had a kid in a 2012 Kia come by delivering pizza, noticed he wasnt leaving and get out and get on his cell phone. I went out and asked wuts up he said he was calling a tow truck, that his ignition always locks up. I asked him if I could try which he was very hesitant to do and I jumped in, moved the steering, started her up and the guy was freaking out. Said the dealer couldnt even figure it out. It was pretty funny.

I've had the issue for a while. Got stuck for a few minutes several times. Best solution aside from actually fixing the problem was to go to Home Depot and get powdered graphite for locks. Not wd-40!! After you put the graphite in take the key and "fck" your ignition for a little. Consider it for play for getting her motor goin and eventually the graphite doesn't do its job as well so just add a little more. Really just think of it like sex. Oh hey that's gettin a littler dry huh? Lets add a little more lube and keep goin!

For what it's worth, you don't want to use WD-40 or graphite. Yes, they both will work temporarily and get you going but in time you are just making things worse. Toyota, for just a few years experimented with split-wafers, meaning instead of having one wafer per slot they would divided it, they normally only did it to like the 2-5-7 slot I think. This was there attempt to keep people from picking locks because, well you just can't pick a split wafer lock. Only problem being that, it meant these locks over time would get dust, lint etc.. In the slots and cause the split wafers to jam. Your best bet would be to use something called tri-flo which is a dry lube not wet like wd-40. Just like a chain on a bicycle, if you use we-40 and go for a ride you notice the chain is dirty from all the dust collecting on the wet lube, so instead you use tri-flo or white lightning and your good to go. Second, dry graphite is no good because basically your putting contamination into your cylinder, and being most manufacturers use a grease to lube the cylinder that graphite will just clog and make springs not want to work very good. Take it for what it's worth, but if you have a TR-47 key and have not experienced the cylinder locking up on you then I guarantee eventually it will, best fix is to remove the cylinder and remove the split wafers, just leave the slot blank and you will never have a problem again.

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the replies. I know a lot more now than I did when I came here. But, to fix this problem once and for all, do I need to order part #69503 at $293, or is the only other option to take the cylinder out and take to a locksmith? Or should I take my VIN# to Toyota and have a new key cut first? Thanks. Sorry for being so ignition illiterate...

I just replaced my ignition cylinder and now my Runner won't start and the doors won't lock. I have the old cylinder out and I am going to get a key made from my vin and then get the cylinder checked by a locksmith with the newly cut key.

did you ever resolve this?

Hrt4me,
Yes I ended resolving it to the tune of $565, mine was so bad that the cylinder had to be completely rebuilt, a new key cut and recoded. I tried the locksmith route but they couldn't figure it out, so I dropped my pants, bent over and let the stealer has his way with me. I feel so used!

Used and abused. It's not just the stealerships but many businesses. Try getting a water heater installed for a real $1000. Doing it myself! All of are huge profiteers!

Not everywhere.

One of the "benefits" of a military career has been the opportunity to live in all different parts of the country.

In some states/cities, there are plenty of great businesses that do good work for a fair price. In my town, even the Toyota dealership has been quite honest in my dealings with them.

The best places that I've lived with respect to honest businesses: Georgia and Oklahoma.

Worst: Nevada and North Carolina.

Western Washington, IMHO, is somewhere in the middle.

This happens to me as soon as I turned of my truck and then wanted to put the windows up it the key in the ignition did not want to turn and tomorrow I have to go to work :/ can't decide which route to go with...I want to go with the least expensive. Should I try getting a key at the dealer maybe the key is worn out

You can try a few things,

1st. Try inserting the key and removing the key while putting gentle pressure like you would if turning the cylinder.

2nd. Insert the key 9/10 of the way gently turn to on position, now we kno nothing will happen at that point, but next take the end of a screw driver( handle) and lightly tap the key. . .repeat a few time.
Basically you are trying to give a little jolt to the wafers allowing them to slip back into place and turn the cylinder.

VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!

If it turns do not, I repeat do not turn back to off position. At this point either remove the. Cylinder, very easy and take to locksmith or drive to locksmith.

Also call AAA they send a locksmith and pay to have them fix it........

For those whose key would turn did the starter engage and crank the engine but it would not start? I have that problem and I think it is the ignition because I have ruled fuel and spark out.