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Old 09-06-2015, 08:15 PM #31
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I appreciate the reply. I'll look into those. just tried the sway bar links which seemed to help a little on my first ride, plus were cheap ($13 x 2). I know my front shocks need to be replaced and my front bearings are bad. I'll check your other suggestions as well. I'll be back
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:10 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-money$$$ View Post
I experianced this once awhile ago, but I was going 107 mph. Which is pretty dumb on its own in the runner. The rear end started getting light and almost drifting. I figured it was from my cr**py dunlop tires. I know this dosent help much but I just remeber the rear end doing werid things
It probably wasn't from the cr**py dunlops. My guess is it had to do with that 107mph in a 4runner thing.

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Old 09-06-2015, 10:34 PM #33
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Going over 70mph in my 4Runner was a handful. 2 hands, and correcting every sway to the left and sway to the right. Dropping the speed to 60mph and bellow was better but still nerve racking.

Then I did the upgraded guide bushing in the rack. Now is just only one hand on the wheel doing 70mph, all the way up to 80mph and it's still steady as a rock.

Getting ready to tighten up the rack even more with poly rack housing bushings.
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Old 05-14-2016, 01:21 PM #34
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I have a 99 runner with 250K , it rode fine as I bought it with 4 almost new street type tires on it. I started going thru the suspension to bring it up to speed. new lower ball joints, new steering rack bushings, new monroe quick struts, new sensatrac monroe shocks. new sway bar bushings front and back and new goodyear armour trac tires. now it has the wobble. It occurs at higher speeds when driving over a series of light bumps in the road, the longer the bumps the longer the swaying. on a smooth road it doesnt wobble. I pretty much replaced everything at once so its impossible to narrow it down to one thing. the crazy thing is it was fine with all these worn out parts. ???????????????
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Old 10-24-2016, 12:44 PM #35
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Possible Solution!

Reviving this from the dead!

I think I may have figured out the cause of the highway wobble that everyone is experiencing. I believe that the cause (in my case) is a bad transmission mount.

When I replaced the clutch, I noticed that my transmission mount was badly worn. So worn that the rubber bushing had completely separated from the bracket that attaches to the transmission itself. I meant to order a new one, but forgot to and said screw it I'll fix it later. (edit: the rubber is still there, just separated on one side, I'll post pictures when I get the new one) I figured the bolts would hold it in place long enough for me to order one and I'll get it replaced before my first camping trip in this thing.

Well, after heading out on a test drive after installing the clutch, I was terrified when my 4Runner felt SUPER sloppy. It felt like I was getting hit with 70 mph side winds. I initially thought suspension, low tire pressure, etc., etc. After checking tire pressure, and seeing what everyone has done already with little results and knowing that the previous owner had replaced many of the suspension components before I purchased it thought it had to be something else.

So I began to play around a little bit and tried to replicate the conditions under which the wobble occurred. After a little bit of driving, I noticed that the wobble happened after every time I shifted gears and was exaggerated at higher speeds. I also noticed that if I sped up during the wobble, it helped correct the problem a little but when I let up on the pedal the wobble got WAY worse to the point that I was hitting the brakes hard to not lose control on the freeway. This got me thinking of my bad mount and curious if the transmission was rocking on the mount. That transmission is heavy and would definitely cause a sway if that happened.

To test my theory I cruised at freeway speeds (70 mph here in Utah) until the wobble came back, I accelerated to gain control, let up on the pedal and sure enough the wobble got way worse. So I put the car in neutral without hitting the brakes and coasted for a bit. Sure enough, the wobble went away and as long as I was coasting in neutral, the wobble did not come back. I coasted for about 1/4 to 1/2 a mile to an exit without any trouble.

So, knowing the condition of my transmission mount and the results of my tests, I'm about 99% confident that my issue is because of a bad transmission mount. I've got one ordered and should be delivered by Wednesday. I'll install it and report back! Anyone else experiencing this issue, I recommend checking out the transmission mount. You'll need a floor jack to be able to hold the transmission in place as you drop the cross-member, but it's pretty simple to do.
I'd be interested to know the condition of the transmission mounts of everyone else experiencing this issue.
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Old 10-24-2016, 03:04 PM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducksrunner25 View Post
Reviving this from the dead!

I think I may have figured out the cause of the highway wobble that everyone is experiencing. I believe that the cause (in my case) is a bad transmission mount.

When I replaced the clutch, I noticed that my transmission mount was badly worn. So worn that the rubber bushing had completely separated from the bracket that attaches to the transmission itself. I meant to order a new one, but forgot to and said screw it I'll fix it later. (edit: the rubber is still there, just separated on one side, I'll post pictures when I get the new one) I figured the bolts would hold it in place long enough for me to order one and I'll get it replaced before my first camping trip in this thing.

Well, after heading out on a test drive after installing the clutch, I was terrified when my 4Runner felt SUPER sloppy. It felt like I was getting hit with 70 mph side winds. I initially thought suspension, low tire pressure, etc., etc. After checking tire pressure, and seeing what everyone has done already with little results and knowing that the previous owner had replaced many of the suspension components before I purchased it thought it had to be something else.

So I began to play around a little bit and tried to replicate the conditions under which the wobble occurred. After a little bit of driving, I noticed that the wobble happened after every time I shifted gears and was exaggerated at higher speeds. I also noticed that if I sped up during the wobble, it helped correct the problem a little but when I let up on the pedal the wobble got WAY worse to the point that I was hitting the brakes hard to not lose control on the freeway. This got me thinking of my bad mount and curious if the transmission was rocking on the mount. That transmission is heavy and would definitely cause a sway if that happened.

To test my theory I cruised at freeway speeds (70 mph here in Utah) until the wobble came back, I accelerated to gain control, let up on the pedal and sure enough the wobble got way worse. So I put the car in neutral without hitting the brakes and coasted for a bit. Sure enough, the wobble went away and as long as I was coasting in neutral, the wobble did not come back. I coasted for about 1/4 to 1/2 a mile to an exit without any trouble.

So, knowing the condition of my transmission mount and the results of my tests, I'm about 99% confident that my issue is because of a bad transmission mount. I've got one ordered and should be delivered by Wednesday. I'll install it and report back! Anyone else experiencing this issue, I recommend checking out the transmission mount. You'll need a floor jack to be able to hold the transmission in place as you drop the cross-member, but it's pretty simple to do.
I'd be interested to know the condition of the transmission mounts of everyone else experiencing this issue.
I have the 5 speed and my shifter wobbles a lot at highway speeds so I've thought about this too!! Are the transmission mounts easy to investigate/replace? Where are they?
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Old 10-24-2016, 04:14 PM #37
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There is only one transmission mount and if you look at the cross member the transmission sits on, that whole piece has to come out. There are two 14mm bolts on each side of the transmission that secure the mount to the transmission. I would actually recommend taking those out after you take out the cross member bolts and have something supporting the transmission so there is no weight on those bolts.

To take out the cross-member, you need something to hold the transmission up, then just take out the 4 14mm bolts holding the cross member. I recommend some PB Blaster or something to help loosen up the probable rust before attempting to remove them. If your is anything like mine, you'll need to pry it out once all the bolts are out. Then the actual mount I think has a few more bolts to remove it from the cross-member. Shouldn't take longer than 20 minutes to do.
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Old 11-07-2016, 01:11 PM #38
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FOUND THE FIX!! It wasn't the transmission mount....

So I replaced the transmission mount, wobble still there. Back to the forums to try and figure it out. Somewhere I read about bad bushings in the drag links. I looked at mine and sure enough they were awful. A member of that forum recommended Whiteline Poly Bushings. I bit the bullet and bought them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After a smashed finger and hand, I got the new bushings installed, and I'm happy to say that the wobble is gone and the car isn't trying to kill me anymore!!
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Old 11-07-2016, 02:14 PM #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducksrunner25 View Post
So I replaced the transmission mount, wobble still there. Back to the forums to try and figure it out. Somewhere I read about bad bushings in the drag links. I looked at mine and sure enough they were awful. A member of that forum recommended Whiteline Poly Bushings. I bit the bullet and bought them.

...I got the new bushings installed, and I'm happy to say that the wobble is gone and the car isn't trying to kill me anymore!!
Glad you got your wobble issue solved and appreciate the follow up post on what helped and did not help resolve the issue.
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Old 11-07-2016, 10:09 PM #40
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I will add another possibility to the mix. I have had to replace a rear axle shaft because of a bent flange. Had been chasing a rear hula problem on the runner for a while when a friend was following me out of my neighborhood and said it looked like I had a bent rear wheel. Put the runner on jackstands and found that the axle shaft was bent. Wheel was a cast alum wheel that would break before it bent. Others who have had bent rear shaft flanges may chime in. I think mine happened when trying a hard climb and came down on the rear end pretty hard.
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:37 PM #41
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I think I finally got it, I was at witts end and I decided to take the lower control arms off the rear axle and actually inspect them when off of the vehicle. they seemed OK when looking at them on the vehicle. I pulled the first one off and one end had the center bushing partially tearing away from the outer part of the rubber, It actually didnt look that bad but I figured hey I'm looking for a problem and if not totally toast it was at least going bad. I ordered two from Rock auto without looking at the second one. about $55 each. pulled both out and the other side looked to still be in good shape, I wasnt very hopeful. installed them and its working great. 400 miles of driving later it hasnt swayed or wobbled once. My advice is if your struggling with this same problem, pull all four of the control arms off the rear where you can inspect them properly, and replace them if there is any doubt. BTW I was impressed with the arms from Rock Auto, they seemed stout and well built for a fraction of the toyota price.
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Old 02-08-2017, 04:03 PM #42
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I have the same issue but even at slow speeds I hit a bump the the rear wiggles. I have new 5100's with 906 and two 10mm OME Packers. The front end feels fine. It's just the rear. I had some wiggle prior to the 5100's and packers. Went higher .75" and it's really noticeable. I am lifted 2.75 in rear so it's not crazy high.

I am going to get longer sway links and check for play in the control arm. Maybe those bushings are kaput. Any other ideas gents??

It's funny when I had my son in the truck the wiggle was less noticeable...more weight in vehicle.
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Old 02-09-2017, 01:52 AM #43
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Update:

Tonight I checked the panhard bar, lower control arm and all the bushings and they were tight and bushings were not rotted. So, I went to the parts store and got 3rd gen front sway links and installed them. So...I went for a drive and the truck was night and day!! I handles so much better. That goofy side to side sway was gone...so far. The sway sits the way it should. I will see how it drives tomorrow going to work.

I wantEd to get this done because I didn't want my wife to drive it like it was. She drives it like her ES330. Just wasn't safe.

So, I just want to tell anybody who is using a rear sway with a lift to replace those links with the longer (front) ones. Hope this helps somebody!
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Old 02-09-2017, 06:03 PM #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rallypoint_1 View Post
Update:

Tonight I checked the panhard bar, lower control arm and all the bushings and they were tight and bushings were not rotted. So, I went to the parts store and got 3rd gen front sway links and installed them. So...I went for a drive and the truck was night and day!! I handles so much better. That goofy side to side sway was gone...so far. The sway sits the way it should. I will see how it drives tomorrow going to work.

I wantEd to get this done because I didn't want my wife to drive it like it was. She drives it like her ES330. Just wasn't safe.

So, I just want to tell anybody who is using a rear sway with a lift to replace those links with the longer (front) ones. Hope this helps somebody!
Am I reading your last statement correctly in that you replaced the rear end links using the longer links meant for the front, and this solved your rear sway problem? I do not have a lift, but have the rear sway problem..have a new suspension that is going to go in, but doubt it will fix the problem reading through this thread... I have new sway bar bushings to put on the rear end as well.

And as of 30 seconds ago, I ordered Energy Suspensions 8.3133 rear control arm bushing kit for $100 which is 8 sets of bushings, 2 for each of the 4 control arms. I would bet that my problem goes away between bushings and suspension...I may even do the bushings first and test it out solely for everyone's knowledge....buuuut since I like my time and don't want to jack the car up extra times I also probably won't do that and so will never know exactly what will fix the problem.
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Old 02-09-2017, 08:47 PM #45
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For me the geometry was screwy from the lift. I didn't realize that having Oem links would make such a difference. But I had to be that since the truck drove great prior to lifting it.

There can be so many factors causing sway....bushings, ball joints, control arms...almost endless.
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