I had a check engine light which was accompanied by pretty obvious ignition issues, miss on acceleration etc. I bought a used coil pack ($35) and did a trial and error replacement (it was the number 1 so I got it right the first time). Engine is running fine but the dealer wants $110 to reset the check engine light. Any easier way? You used to be able to disconnect the battery for a couple hours.

still can disconnect the battery to reset it. if its still on when you reconnect the battery, then you have some other problems, or the battery hasn't been disconnected long enough. worse case you'll have to stop by an auto zone or something and see if they can loan you the code reader... although i thought CA law put a stop to that for some reason.

Disconnecting the Battery is one way to clear the DTC's as Stick Figure mentioned, however an easier way is to open up your fuse box behind your battery and remove the EFI fuse for 1 min. That will clear the codes. (Unless it's a hard code)

its only 30 sec not 1min,

Neither 30 seconds or 1 minute worked. I will try disconnecting the battery.

Same here, that did not work. However I did disconnect the positive terminal of the battery for about 30 seconds and reconnected and CEL was reset!

$110 to reset the CEL? Wow. Please give us the name of that dealership so the whole of our 4runner community can make sure to never go there! Try pulling off the neg. cable for 45 minutes.

Stick Figure,
I heard about that law in CA too about not letting parts stores read codes for you anymore, but I think it's been repealed. I say that because I saw a sign in the window of Autozone saying something like "get your codes read for free" just last week. Either that or it's an old sign.

10 or 15 minutes is good, but watch out they may be able to tell if it was reset if you are going to emmisions. The fuse did nothing for me, the battery is what does it.

30 minutes didn't do it for me in the past so I tried 45 and it worked.

I got one of these as a present. It reads the codes and clears them with a push of a button. All for the low price of $46, shoot that's $13 cheaper than when I asked for it for the present!

Amazon.com: Equus 3030 Innova Diagnostic Code Reader for OBDII Vehicles: Automotive

Edit: Here's the unit I have Amazon.com: Innova 3020 Diagnostic Code Reader / Scan Tool with ABS for OBD2 Vehicles: Automotive This used to be the 3030 model. Changed it to the 3020.

I don't know how long, but leave the battery disconnected for a while and it will reset. 45min to an hour has always worked for me. If there is still a problem it will come back on, usually no sooner than 50 miles though.

And Brian, I haven't heard that, nor live in Cali anymore, but in Texas to get an inspection they can tell if you disconnected the battery to reset the computer. I had a problem with my cats, and the CEL light was on, but I knew it would pass (long story on how I knew) so I disconnected the battery to turn the light off (you cant pass inspection in Texas with the light on, no matter what!) and went straight to the inspection place. After they hooked it up they asked me if I had had recent work done on the car or replaced the battery, I played dumb and said no. They told me they couldn't inspect it because the computer had recently been reset and for me to drive 50 miles or so and bring it back to have the inspection. From experience the light comes on from 50-100 miles after resetting, but it worked out that I got it inspected after driving the 50 miles, but immediately pulling away after leaving the inspection place the light came back on! haha, oh well it passed! Now I have the URD rear O2 simulator, which keeps the light off, so passing is no big deal now!

The on-board computer reports pass/fail/incomplete for a series of tests. Cat efficiency usually takes the longest, as it requires 2-trip detection and a fairly involved set of test conditions. DMV's will not pass a car that has any tests showing incomplete. (They all go to Incomplete when power is cut to the ECM.) jsmarine had to be lucky enough to complete and pass all tests, hit the DMV, and then have the DTC code thrown and CEL turned on only after he left. I have to assume fault was either intermittent or borderline.

I have a BR-3 scanner and it reports test status readings just as the State computers do. The NJ printout that they give you and the BR-3 screen pass the same test status info.

Pull the battery cables and touch them together to drain the juice out of the computer faster. Just a minute or two is all it takes.

Disconnected the positive battery cable for 30 seconds and worked for me on my 2016 4runner trail edition

if you disconnect battery drain power from vehicle after disconnect by turning on lights and stereo to drain out all power stored. i build tuner cars and do this alot.