Hey guys! Well let me start off by telling you what im looking for. I dont do any serious offroading just the weekend camping and sleeping in the back of my 4runner at the local skydiving dropzone im working at(85 miles from home one way). However, i do want it to look mean as hell and have the ability to handle adverse terrain if need be. Also important to note is this is my daily driver and i am currently on 30" tires getting 18.5-19 MPG.

I have checked into the Sonoransteel lift via their website and it looks as if Steve really knows his stuff. They cover ever aspect of lifting the vehicle and provide reasons as to why they recommend what they do. So unless anyone can provide a better alternative im considering their 1.2 or 7.2 lift. I like the fact that 7.2 sits level and rides smooth and doesnt have the tilted stance of 1.2 but id hate to add steel bumpers, a heavy roof rack, or gear/equipmeant later down the road and find the rear sagging. However i want a good ride on highway too...so i need some guideance.

The next issue is 33's vs 35's. How bad is my current 18.5-19 MPG going to suffer with 33's or 35's....and will regearing bring the MPG's back up to where i am now? What bodylift will i need to fit 35's....1" or 2"?


Here is some pics of her current stance for inspiration...when done she will look amazing....help me make the right decision, thanks!!!

i do not know anything about the S.S. lifts. but i do know you need a 3 inch suspension lift and a 1 inch body lift to clear 33"s and you dont have to regear, i am runnig that setup. but for 35's i believe you need a 3 inch suspension lift with a 3 inch body liftt, and lots of trimming. plus regearing. hope that helps


i really like the all black

Struggled with this same dilemma for quite some time and finally pulled the trigger on the SS System 1.2. I do off-road, albeit not on super technical trails, quite a bit and carry about 100 lbs of tools/recovery gear at all times. Haven't heard anything but great things about Steve and his setups, also bilsteins speak for themselves. There are cheaper options from toytec and others but I really liked Steve's knowledge of these trucks and the research he's put in to trying different parts, etc. If quality and long term drive-ability are key, which it looks like they are I would seriously consider system 1.2 or 7.2 if you don't plan to carry heavy loads or add sliders or a bumper.

With regards to 33"s vs. 35"s, 35"'s will kill your mileage even with a regear and will wear out your drive line and other components prematurely. Given that your truck has 256K and you don't plan to do serious offroading the potential downside is much larger than the upside... yes I would love to have 35''s too.

33''s are a much more feasible option and would most likely require a regear unless you were blessed with 4.30 which I believe is the best the factory had to offer. There is a link lurking somewhere out there with the corresponding gear codes based on your vin#, give this a try http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html

S.S. 1.2, I just got my kit yesterday. Go with 33's and I wouldn't worry with 35's or regearing. IMO it's just not worth it. I've seen a 4Runner on 33's and they are plenty capable. If I were going to put 35's on mine, I'd do an SAS, and beef all the internals up...

I have the 7.2 and have tested it in Death Valley. I love the stance (still slightly higher in the back) and will the back loaded it up it sits level - not much change at all. adding sliders shouldn't make a difference, but a bumper would be noticeable. I run 33's with no rubbing or trimming required. When I talked to Steve he said a 1" body lift would allow 35's to clear, but recommended a different wheel to make sure backspacing stayed in check.

Thanks for all the advice and i welcome any other opinions. It sounds like the 33's might be the best all around option(vs. 35's).

Id still like to know if gears will get me back close to stock MPG(18.5-19).

Also thanks to whoever pointed out the 7.2 still has a little of an uneven stance. Should i assume the 7.2 will ride smoother on the road? Are the OME rear springs softer than the Landcruiser rear springs of the 1.2 kit?

A few emails and one phone call to steve and all questions were answered. Sonoransteel 1.2 kit ordered!:bouncy:

Can i interest anyone around DFW in 4 almost new Michelins LTX M/S 275/70/16 and blacked out wheels pkg? They are 7 months old and were $850 new, 70-80% tread left.

you can fit 33s stock, they work a lot better with a 3 inch lift though, having some room to flex.

You could have just gone with an OME lift and saved yourself quite a bit of cash.

I agree, especially if you're not gonna wheel it much if any.

I wanted to do it right the first time and never look back. The OME didnt seem as complete of a kit but just for kicks shoot me a link so i can see the exact kit your referring to...if ya dont mind.

http://www.toyteclifts.com/index.php...mart&Itemid=72
I would go with something like that for the situation you described in the OP, add in a diff drop and extended rear brake line and you'll be good. That kit is in no way the "cheap" route to go and I think you'd be happy with it. SS lifts are super sweet for sure but IMO are overkill for the average joe. At the same time though if you have the cash then go for it!

>edit: whoops I didn't see that had already ordered it. Post pics of the install when you do it!

OK guys, looks like my 1.2 kit ships today. Im thinking of paying to have it installed instead of doing the job myself. Can yall think of anything else i should consider doing while they are doing the suspension work(besides an alignment). Is there anything else thats in that immediate vecinity or is more accessible with suspension out?

Diff Breather extension if you think you need it. Also, make sure you give the shop all of the instructions/supplement/part's sheet etc.

I love the SS 1.2 but Steve failed to include the instruction manual and install supplement, I don't know if this is standard practice or if he normally provides more than just the link. Normally it wouldn't have been a big deal but I didn't have easy access to the web or a printer at the time.

Also, not to editorialize but Steve really needs to update the instructions to reflect the new parts and incorporate all of the important details. For instance he provides advice on alignment specs in the FAQ's on his website but not in the install guide? Just one of a few details that were annoying.

Also, I dig the your rig but If it were mine I'd lose the running boards.