I've seen a few threads related to door lock problems, but I haven't seen a concrete resolution to the problem.

My problem is that the door locks still function, but only through the key fob, the actual door lock switches (both driver and passenger) will not lock or unlock the doors.

Anyone else seen this and have a good fix for it ?

Okay, so I got bored last night and decided to tack the issue down to a specific component. Since both of the door lock switches were non functional, but the key fob still worked I knew it was either a master door switch issue or a relay somewhere between here and there.

After inspecting the door switch and verifying proper operation I moved on to the next source of the possible issue, I turns out all of the door functions are controlled through a series of relays in a fuse block under the steering column.
Signal went in, but never went anywhere. And when it failed to operated there was only a faint mechanical click inside the relay instead of the strong pop one would expect.

The relay itself is soldered into the board which isn't really an issue, but finding a matching pin and switch type relay is. Dealer carries the part 8273035250, but they wanted $270, found a replacement online for $190. I will let you know if it actually does work.

Got the new fuse distribution box yesterday, plugged it in and now everything works as it should.

pictures?

So I was having door lock problems too. I had full power door unlock functions but no lock function. If I manually locked all doors and all were shut then when I hit the lock button on my fob it would beep one time. I figured it was the BCM based off threads like this one. While at the junkyard getting a new sunroof glass so I could drive without getting dripped on, I noticed the wrecked Runner had the fuse block still in. I pulled it and the guy wanted $25 for it so I said SOLD! Got it home and pulled it apart and found you do not have to pull your entire fuse block to replace the circuit board inside.

First unbolt the four 10mm bolts for your lower dash and pull it off. If you have auto climate control then disconnect the air hose and sensor on the right side so you don't yank it out.

Then look at your fuse block. There's a white wire holder you need to pop off. I just used a flat blade screw driver and pried it off, putting pressure outwards until it popped off. Do this on the top and the bottom of the clip.


Then unplug the two wire harnesses. Then you can start taking off the cover that is around the connectors. There is a tab in all 4 corners.


On the bottom right tab you will likely have to pull out the black relay that's in the way.


Once you pull the cover off you will see the circuit board.


Unscrew the 4 screws, one in each corner. This is where some finesse comes in, the vertical line of silver tabs on the left side are prongs coming off the fuse block that press in to those tabs. I was able to pull up on the right side far enough to get a flat blade screw driver behind the circuit board. I put a glove over the screwdriver to give it some padding so I wouldn't damage the board and then leveraged out the board from the back. Once it's off this is what you've got:


Just slap the new (Or in my case, newer) one in, plug the connectors in and test your locks, and if all is well then put it all back together.

That's good cheese, although the entire unit comes out in like 2 minutes. Not sure there is any time savings doing it this way, but... I wonder if it eliminates compatibility issues with different versions of the BCM?

I was having the same issue months back. was going to order the new fuse/relay panel but had to wait on $$$

so one afternoon, went through every ground connections I could find under the hood and inside the cab
pulled all my fuses and cleaned the contacts

have not had a problem since....well with the door locks anyway